ASM Skimmer Club!

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8502963#post8502963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ridetheducati
Get one and try it. Only $40.

I saw $49. That would be one way to do it. Was hoping to ride on someone else's coattails.:eek1:
 
For my direct feed from the display I didn't use any "T's" or elbows. If you run a slower sump turnover (and you should) the flow wont be a problem. I think the turbulence from the durso in my setup actually adds to the foam production.

All I really know is that my skimmate production has more than doubled since the mod. I am buying a G4 for a new 180 I'm doing, and I will direct feed and recirc it before I even install it.
 
I am getting ready to gate valve my G3- on ASM's web site, they list 2 ways to doing the mod. One has the stand pipe removed and then a piece of pvc coming up to the valve.
the second says to just start with the elbow coming off the standpipe to a tee and then the valve. Which method do you guys do with the G3?
Here is a link to the page. Thanks for any help.

http://www.asmskimmer.com/mod1.htm
 
detroit_fan:

I used the second configuration on my gate valve mod. My thinking was that with the tee immediately above the fixed portion of the standpipe and the valve on the horizontal I would retain more height adjustment capability than if the valve was on the vertical. Putting the valve on the vertical would end up raising the overall minimum height of the horizontal pipe.

I guess I don't really know if it makes any difference, it just seems that with the lower minimum height of the horizontal valve setup you would retain more flexibility in adjustment.:)

(see my pics earlier in this thread)
 
Ok, looking through the thead, this seems to be a perfered way to gate valve mod a G3. Would you guys agree that this is best for G3? Do i really need the straight pipe out of the top if the tee to be that high?
begatevalvemod-thewayiwanttodoit.jpg


beagain.jpg
 
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We are in the process of upgrading from a 90 to a 150. I've had an ER CS6-1 on it from the beginning, and have been happy with the results.
Since I'll need new lights and pumps, I don't want to spend $800 for a skimmer - so I'm looking at other options.
Which ASM unit will work best for the 150?
 
Fuzzy,

I just purchased a G4X for my 180. I have about 275 gal or so total volume. I think its always best to go a little bigger when it comes to a skimmer, so a G4 would be just about right for youre setup.

BTW, to all who have done a recirc mod, should the recirc pump output be above the intake, or vice versa?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525450#post8525450 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by detroit_fan
Ok, looking through the thead, this seems to be a perfered way to gate valve mod a G3. Would you guys agree that this is best for G3? Do i really need the straight pipe out of the top if the tee to be that high?
It should be as high as the top of the riser tube. If it's any lower, you would not be able to adjust your water level any higher than the top of the tube. It's tough to see, but here's mine.

9086G3Gatevalve.JPG
 
I find that the riser pipe and "T" defeat part of the point of the Gate Valve mod.

I have no "T" on my gate valve at all:

skimmer outlet-> 90 degree elbow -> gate valve -> 90 elbow pointing down.

The point of the "T" is I guess to allow micro bubbles out but I don't get any bubbles without it so I don't think it's necessary. Also I like to keep my Gate Valve as low as possible to not do so defeats the point of the gate valve mod. Before the mod you adjusted the height of your riser to control the water level. Why place a gate valve so high or almost as high as your riser tube used to be? I keep mine as low as possible and the handle is still well out of the water.

:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8506823#post8506823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mfinn
I saw $49. That would be one way to do it. Was hoping to ride on someone else's coattails.:eek1:

No worries, I ordered one a week ago with overnight shipping. I received an e-mail a day later saying:
"We usually ship with 48-72 hours"

It's been almost a week and I haven't received an e-mail stating that they've shipped it yet. I also left a few messages with ER's "Order Placement / Order Tracking Dept." but they haven't returned my calls yet. :(
 
G4 recirc mod question. My uniseals just showed up today and I pulled out my G4x so that I could do the recirc mod but when I put the 3/4" tube into the 90 bend and then in the top of the sedra 5000, the sedra intake hits the lower grey plastic piece. Just the rim of the grey intake is hitting the grey bottom of the skimmer. So should I twist the pump at a funky angle so that it is sucking water from a different position than it is pushing it in? Because most mods show the inlet and outlet to be directly above/below each other and mine would have to be diagnol. If this is the case, how should I support the pump? Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8527587#post8527587 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Freds
No worries, I ordered one a week ago with overnight shipping. I received an e-mail a day later saying:
"We usually ship with 48-72 hours"

It's been almost a week and I haven't received an e-mail stating that they've shipped it yet. I also left a few messages with ER's "Order Placement / Order Tracking Dept." but they haven't returned my calls yet. :(


I finally received a email back from ER and they said the replacement impeller they sell will fit any sedra 9000.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8527726#post8527726 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lyscer
G4 recirc mod question. My uniseals just showed up today and I pulled out my G4x so that I could do the recirc mod but when I put the 3/4" tube into the 90 bend and then in the top of the sedra 5000, the sedra intake hits the lower grey plastic piece. Just the rim of the grey intake is hitting the grey bottom of the skimmer. So should I twist the pump at a funky angle so that it is sucking water from a different position than it is pushing it in? Because most mods show the inlet and outlet to be directly above/below each other and mine would have to be diagnol. If this is the case, how should I support the pump? Thanks.

If I understand your problem correctly, you may have to cut into the grey plastic bottom rim of the skimmer to make the holes and pump line up.
I don't see where that would be a problem. You may have to use some silicone to get a good seal around the unseal and skimmer body.
Or you could elongate the upper hole and use some 1/8" acrylic to make a patch.
Before cutting or changing it either way, I'd make sure the pump and skimmer body sit level together.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8526888#post8526888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by waldomas
Fuzzy,

I just purchased a G4X for my 180.

Thanks for the info!
If you don't mind where did you buy the G4X?
The ASM web site says something about a no longer offering the ASM products.

edit-

I found them at Premium Aquatics - the G4x is 30" tall - our new tank won't be here for a while - so I may wind up with the G4Plus at a whopping $360.
The comparable ER is the RS180 at $440.
I'm curious to know the differences between the two units - they look an awful lot alike.....
 
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I bought a G-2 a couple months ago and decided that I'm going to make it a recirc skimmer. I've been debating though before I make any holes if I want to go with the Sedra 5000 or keep the supplied Sedra 3500. Now I heard that the ER's pull more air, so then it came to me today that I should instead use two Sedra 3500's than use one Sedra 5000 for the recirc mod. Shouldn't that pull twice the amount of air than the Sedra 5000, and I'm betting that I'll also get alot of bubbles with two pumps. How does this sound to you guys? Is this feesible?
 
Ok, I have silly question. In ASM-G3 where should the top of bubbles should be for dry and for wet skimming?
 
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