ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[marty9876]

Anyone know anything about the LED configuration changes in these? This is so frustrating, ordered 2x 48"x 8 fixtures for a 8' tank. Reefgeek shipped one out in Dec and just got the other (was back ordered, knew at time of order). I haven't hung either light and was all excited to hang them both this weekend and now not sure what to do. Whole point of matching lights was the matching part.

It's a different layout and count of LED's, haven't powered on the 2nd fixture yet.

New:

Old:

 

[Dashiki]

it is disappointing that there is very limited information on the LED portion of the light. surprised they made that change and never made an announcement.

 

[Dashiki]

if I had to guess it looks like less white led's and they changed the amount and type of the blue led's

if im counting right the new light has 25 diodes and the old one has 20

 

[rtparty]

I've heard nothing about a change but I'd bet they look identical when on. Maybe the new LEDs are more efficient and powerful.

I'll see what Oliver says.

 

[MvM]

It is:

1
1
2
2
LEDs
2
2
1
1

Weird. I have the 36" and it's:
1
1
2
2
Led
1
1
2
2

Anyone else have the 36" that has noticed this?

 

[sahin]

I've heard nothing about a change but I'd bet they look identical when on. Maybe the new LEDs are more efficient and powerful.

I'll see what Oliver says.

+1

Looks like you got the new version of the LED Cluster. It looks like you got the new Luxeon M 12watt LED for the White and Royal Blue.

So that makes it around 22-24watts Royal Blue, 22-24watts White LED, 6 Blue LED's, and 2 Red LED's. Which is more or less than same as the previous cluster, but more efficient emitters.

But it looks like there is 1 extra LED...

I am wondering if the additional is a UV/420nm Actinic LED?

 

[rtparty]

+1

Looks like you got the new version of the LED Cluster. It looks like you got the new Luxeon M 12watt LED for the White and Royal Blue.

So that makes it around 22-24watts Royal Blue, 22-24watts White LED, 6 Blue LED's, and 2 Red LED's. Which is more or less than same as the previous cluster, but more efficient emitters.

But it looks like there is 1 extra LED...

I am wondering if the additional is a UV/420nm Actinic LED?

They are Luxeon M and made the fixture more efficient. There will probably be an upgrade every year.

It doesn't make sense to upgrade for most of us.

 

[Montireef]

As Lubeck stated check the fans to ensure all of them run.

Note that the T5 fans run as soon as either LED's or T5's switch on. The LED fans only switch on when the temp rises further.

If all fans work, then let us know what the ambient room temp is? Do you have the fixture inside a canopy or anything like that?

If the issue remains after you have verified that all the fans work, then I'd contact your vendor for further support.

Thanks both Lubeck and Sahin!
Apparently, every fan is working fine. This blinking only happens when reaching 62ºC. Temperature inside the house is around 20ºC, it's not hot at all and the fixture heats up when everything is at 100% despite the fans working fine. The fixture is hanging 10 cms under the ceiling (well, a kind of canopy really) and 18 cms above water level. Power supply is inside that canopy but it doesn't get very hot.
I've got plenty of PAR for my acros running leds at a maximum of 40% and T5s at 100%, so now led temperature is never above 50ºC.


My fixture works like this:

1
1
2
2
LEDs
2
2
1
1

By the way, I would like to run moonlight phases and clouds simulation but can't find it on the program. I bet the only way is messing with those then dots every channel's got.

 

[sahin]

Thanks both Lubeck and Sahin!
Apparently, every fan is working fine. This blinking only happens when reaching 62ºC. Temperature inside the house is around 20ºC, it's not hot at all and the fixture heats up when everything is at 100% despite the fans working fine. The fixture is hanging 10 cms under the ceiling (well, a kind of canopy really) and 18 cms above water level. Power supply is inside that canopy but it doesn't get very hot.
I've got plenty of PAR for my acros running leds at a maximum of 40% and T5s at 100%, so now led temperature is never above 50ºC.


My fixture works like this:

1
1
2
2
LEDs
2
2
1
1

By the way, I would like to run moonlight phases and clouds simulation but can't find it on the program. I bet the only way is messing with those then dots every channel's got.

I hope you dont mind me explaining that in light of the info provided, it is NOT a fault with the fixture that it is getting too hot.

Here is the issue: There is only 10cm between the top of the fixture and your ceiling.

What this means is that the HOT air exiting the vents on the side of the unit for the T5 and on top for the LED's is rising as heat is supposed to.

The ATI fans are simply pulling in warm air that has just come out of the exhaust. Thereby not adequately cooling the unit.

I have about 1.5meters distance between the top of the unit and the ceiling, so the hot air has a chance to disperse throughout the room.

You dont need to run the LED's at 100%. I run the T5's and the Royal Blue channel at 100% only. The rest are at much lower settings.

I think if you aim a fan at the side of the unit this will cause the hot air to disperse throughout the immediate vicinity of the unit and the unit will pull in cooler air, allowing the heatsink to cool.

My living room is 26'Celcius year round. My unit has no problem cooling, and typically runs somewhere around 48-50'C. When the family run heaters etc in the room, it might get to 54'C but that is rare.

Hope that explains the issue.

 

[sahin]

Thanks both Lubeck and Sahin!
Apparently, every fan is working fine. This blinking only happens when reaching 62ºC. Temperature inside the house is around 20ºC, it's not hot at all and the fixture heats up when everything is at 100% despite the fans working fine. The fixture is hanging 10 cms under the ceiling (well, a kind of canopy really) and 18 cms above water level. Power supply is inside that canopy but it doesn't get very hot.
I've got plenty of PAR for my acros running leds at a maximum of 40% and T5s at 100%, so now led temperature is never above 50ºC.


My fixture works like this:

1
1
2
2
LEDs
2
2
1
1

By the way, I would like to run moonlight phases and clouds simulation but can't find it on the program. I bet the only way is messing with those then dots every channel's got.

Sorry forgot about the rest of your question. Yes, my 8tube runs in the same configuration.

If you have TWO or more clusters, then you can run CLOUD simulation.

Moonlight is easy, just use whatever channel and adjust the levels to run that channel at a VERY low level for an hour or so after main light cycle to simulate moonlight.

Here is a video tutorial I made. I think it is decent enough because the UK distributor for ATI has linked my Tutorial Video on their website:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Lh6f4JA9UUI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Excuse my weird British accent. :lol:

I didnt cover CLOUD cover, in that video, but its a simple matter of adjusting the plot lines by a short time interval to simulate cloud sweep.

If you want, you can PM me with your basic profile and I can set it up for you.

 

[loweryster]

Anyone know anything about the LED configuration changes in these? This is so frustrating, ordered 2x 48"x 8 fixtures for a 8' tank. Reefgeek shipped one out in Dec and just got the other (was back ordered, knew at time of order). I haven't hung either light and was all excited to hang them both this weekend and now not sure what to do. Whole point of matching lights was the matching part.

It's a different layout and count of LED's, haven't powered on the 2nd fixture yet.

New:

Old:

Anymore info on this new cluster? I've been running a 24x8 since May. Just recently have notice random flashing of the LEDs while ramping. Notice it more in the evening. Ati has already sent me a new controller. I'm still having the issue. I've sent them a program for testing and at this point they think its the software. Anyone else?

 

[blakeorme]

I also have the flickering, and have noticed it happens when the LEDs are ramping/changing (early morning and late evening). It took away from the effect when I first bought the fixture, but I've gotten accustomed to it.

 

[loweryster]

I've gotten used to it as well, but it is a problem and they are working on it. I love the fact that there is no info on the German site or ATI North America reg the new cluster. I know they are a great company and their support here in the US is awesome but come on.

 

[Montireef]

It makes sense, I'll place a fan aiming to the top of the fixture.
Thanks Sahin.

Your british accent is ok, I'm used to it...more than american or australian.

 

[Montireef]

i've gotten used to it as well, but it is a problem and they are working on it. I love the fact that there is no info on the german site or ati north america reg the new cluster. I know they are a great company and their support here in the us is awesome but come on.

+1

 

[rtparty]

I've gotten used to it as well, but it is a problem and they are working on it. I love the fact that there is no info on the German site or ATI North America reg the new cluster. I know they are a great company and their support here in the US is awesome but come on.

With distributors still having the "old" clusters in stock it was a huge liability for ATI to make a formal announcement. Then distributors get stuck with original fixtures and can't sell them.

There is almost zero benefit to the new clusters. They have slightly more PAR but most, if not all, of us don't need that PAR. With my tank being so shallow I just had to reduce everything, including my T5s, to 50% of their original power. All of my SPS started bleaching over night when I bumped up the white LEDs. Color is coming back now after a week of reduced light.

The new clusters are slightly more energy efficient; about 10% according to ATI. That's not worth it at all if upgrading from the original cluster and not a big enough difference to warrant an all out media release from ATI. Especially if it screws over their distributors.

The light shouldn't look any different or perform any different.

 

[marty9876]

There is almost zero benefit to the new clusters. They have slightly more PAR but most, if not all, of us don't need that PAR.

The new clusters are slightly more energy efficient; about 10% according to ATI.

Please cite/link the facts used in your statements above.

 

[rtparty]

Please cite/link the facts used in your statements above.

Some is opinion, like whether the upgrade is worth it.

The 10% comes straight from Oliver Pritzel, president of ATI.

 

[marty9876]

The 10% comes straight from Oliver Pritzel, president of ATI.

Is this information in the public domain or word of mouth/private conversations?

 

[sahin]

Is this information in the public domain or word of mouth/private conversations?

You can verify this yourself by looking up the specs for the new Luxeon M emitters and the older version.

There isnt much of an efficiency increase...the true beauty of the new Luxeon M emitters is that its pretty much like having 4 of the older emitters in one package.

Have a look at this video:
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-jjdDDTcBdo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Before I bought the ATI LED PM, I was about to order the Luxeon M Royal Blues to replace the older Cree X-RE I had on my custom modified ATI Sunpower.