ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

Will reply tonight.
Right on

Had a little time now so replied with prescribed LED settings/hours to run light/feeding schedule/water change schedule as well as GFO and GAC usage etc.

Do that for AT LEAST 6 weeks. Trust me when I say your water quality/feeding/husbandry has a FAR greater impact on SPS colours than your lights.

Sahin I answered you pm. Thanks for the help.

I sent a light profile. Please amend if you notice corals lightening. Your light unit is PAR monster. I've included a sweep across of the lights at start and end of light cycle.

Everyones tank is different; nutrient levels will greatly influence whether a light cycle and intensity is good for one tank and bad for another.

Hope that helps guys. :)
 
I have change my light profile to the max of 7,5 hours at max.
I use now the colours.
Red 100
Blue 255
Royal blue 255
White 45
Total led on 70%.
With this t5 combi.
Current lighting from front to back:
ATI Blue Plus
AM 15k
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus
LED LED LED LED
ATI Coral Plus
AM 15k
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus
My lamp is at 10cm above my aquarium water and i see the corals are stunnig.
I love the unit.
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Greets wesley
 
Sahin I replied to your pm

Hi; I thought I'd post here rather than reply by PM as it might help someone else if they are going through same problem.

You asked:
1. Is it even enough light? Should I grab some full t5 units? I was gonna get 2 6 bulb sunpowers.

2. Why am I taking gfo out of my tank? And how much carbon do I want to run? I got some rox carbon.

3. Should I run kalk in my auto top off? (I don't even think I need to dose two part "I do but" My params hardly change). I usually do 25% water changes is this too much?

1. It is plenty of light. The issue isnt your light. Use the LED settings I provided in my previous PM. Dont use the Purpleplus setting as your main LED setting during the peak hours. - It contains a lot of red and is IMO part of the issue.

2. In a previous PM you said: Isn't working still my corals are turning brown some are white: this is the reason I said take the GFO out. Your corals are starving. Use 1/2 BRS recommended amount of ROX, then cut it to 1/4 after two weeks. This will keep the organics to a minimum and prevent a surge of algae.

3. Kalk is good if you can set it up properly to run via the topoff. If 25% w/c's take care of Alk, Ca and Mg for you along with Kalk then thats fine for now.

I would bet even if you put a Radium over your tank, I doubt you would get much improvement. Search the forums and you will see that people with Radiums even had issues colouring up SPS.

If one uses too much GFO, runs a low nutrient system and then runs intense light, the corals wont have much colour and will be pale or light brown etc.

I have seen tanks with real crappy lights etc, but the SPS corals had great colour...people concentrate on LIGHTING so much...but the reality is that food and water has so much more to do with SPS colours.

I ran a Hybrid T5/LED light unit BEFORE ATI came out with the LED Powermodule...T5/LED is a very good combo of lighting technology, I got very good results. You just need to feed the tank well, keep up on the husbandry and be patient; it can take sometimes upto 6 months or more to a dramatic change. Take photos every two weeks; compare and if you start to see results, THEN KEEP DOING that.

Hope that helps. :)
 
Right on. Thanks. I'll let you know any changes in 2 weeks and I'll carry it all out for 6 weeks.

I might as well list my stats

Fish list,
1 Purple tang
1 Hippo tang
1 Regel angelfish (not in the tank yet)
7 chromis (not in the tank yet)
1 anthias
1 Foxface
2 clowns
1 algaeblenny
1 scooter blenny
1 Melunaris wrasse
1 Coral beauty
1 Royal gramma

Tank age: 6 months
Tank dimensions is 65x30x24
Light 4bulb ati LED power module 60"
Combo:
Blue+
Purple+
Led (as per sahin)
Coral+
Blue+

Filtration:
90lbs of PUKANI live rock (its a lot lighter than other rocks of its size)
Sro3000int skimmer (cleaned every four days
2 filter socks changed once a week
2 next reef reactors
2 cup of rox 2.0 carbon (as per yesterday)
0 cups of BRS gfo

Nitrate: 10ppm according to api
Phosphate: (my salifert test kit said zero so I'm a bit suspicious since I have a small amount of green algae growing on the sand)

Salt: Red Sea
Calcium" 410
Alk" 7.7-8.3
Mag" 1330

I have 8000 gallons an hour going through my tank.

All of my LPs are doing awesome and my zoanthids are as well.

My monti cap is growing good

My green stag is a light brown but with super green polyps and its almost touching the water.

My green slime has turned from an amazing green to a brown. With a white line running through it as if it's been burned.

My forest fire digitata is white! With amazing red polyps.

My pink mili is brown but has full polyp ext and is encrusting.

My red dragon is on the bottom with the pink mili and its a pale red.

My birds nest are doing fine.
 
Last edited:
New Elos tank: 63″ x 31.5 ″ x 23.6″ H
Minimalist Aquascape will have about 3-5" of sand from each side. (and likely the same in the front)

48" or 60" fixture. 8xT5/LED?

Anyone have a yo/yo type cable system to raise these things for cleaning etc?
 
New Elos tank: 63″ x 31.5 ″ x 23.6″ H
Minimalist Aquascape will have about 3-5" of sand from each side. (and likely the same in the front)

48" or 60" fixture. 8xT5/LED?

Anyone have a yo/yo type cable system to raise these things for cleaning etc?

You can get away with the 48" without any problems what so ever. There won't be any shadowing on the sides. I have a 65" and 48" looks good. If you want to jam the tank with sps then get the 60" if you look up a couple of posts a guy on here is using the 48" on his 96" display
 
Hi all,

What would be recommended for a rimless 48L x 24W x 18H SPS tank? Was thinking either the 4x54 or 8x39.

4x54 Fixture = 3x75+4x54 = 441 watts max.

8x39 Fixture = 2x75+8x39 = 462 watts max.

IF you restricted yourself to ONLY those two units this is your issue:

1. Either way you would lose coverage. Ie either front to back or from the sides.
2. 8x39 means more tubes to replace.
3. 4x54 means LESS bulb combos.

Its a tough one, and personally I'd go for the 8x39 unit as I prefer to have the ability to customize the T5 combo as much as possible.

If you could, get the 8x54...you'll be much happier in terms of coverage.

IF you go for either of the other fixtures, you will need to aquascape around the light coverage or place LPS corals etc on the fringes.

Other option, I would consider is an 8x54watt standard Powermodule and buy a BML addon or Reefbrite to get that Royal Blue crazy fluorescence.


Thanks a lot Sahin! looking forward to seeing it in action. I will keep you updated.
I think you will like it; member MvM really likes the profile I setup for him. I am using this light profile in my tank and I'm having really good results at the moment.

New Elos tank: 63″ x 31.5 ″ x 23.6″ H
Minimalist Aquascape will have about 3-5" of sand from each side. (and likely the same in the front)

48" or 60" fixture. 8xT5/LED?

Anyone have a yo/yo type cable system to raise these things for cleaning etc?

If you want end to end light then go for the 60" unit. HOWEVER, the 60" unit DOESNT have dimmable T5 ballasts for the US market.

If it were me, and I'm buying an Elos tank, I'd get the 60" because in my head that would look way cooler hanging over my tank...Elos tanks have an aesthetic quality and I think a short light fixture would take away from the look. Call me crazy...but thats what I'd do. :)

Due to the 31" front to back, I'd also get an 8tube unit.
 
What's the best Bulb Combination and LED profile to give the sharpest look? I have the
60" 8 bulb and I having a milky look and not very sharp.

Thanks in advance..

currently
Blue+
Blue+
Coral+
Atinic
Led's
Purple+
Coral+
Blue+
Blue+
 
Is it possible to get the blues looking like the ReefBrite blues with the LED on the lamp? IMO the ReefBrite blue is the best one out there.
 
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