automatic water change
- Thread starter DRThompson
- Start date
AquamanE
Active member
you just love to complicate things. I told you i have 100' of extra 1/4".
BTW- whats the remote control for, are you not running with your Apex?
I don't think I'll be needing that much. Just have to wait to move stuff around then I'll place my mix tank behind the wall of the small DT.
Remote was just for demo purposes. Got the idea from porko.
I'm not nearly smart enough to know why but the particular diode across the terminals that prevents it working backwards seems to allow it to run at lower voltage on some motors (I'm not using the same one but on the pumps I'm playing with the diode seems to make all the difference. (I'm playing with those single head pumps I linked earlier, I just couldn't resist) works on 5 volts with the stock diode, but takes 14 volts to turn without or with any other diodes I had laying around...........
What controller are you using? the LED pwm dimmer I have makes the motor make a terrible whinning noise worse than the motor itself running full power?
I couldn't resist....... they run perfectly slow for dosing pumps but are a bit loud something like around 10ml per minute drawing 100mA from 24volts........ (the clear heads. the blue ones are faster and I haven't tested them yet)
Sorry side tracked back to water change multi head pump topic. Mine are on order......
Cool, Thanks.
I'll let you know. I doubt I can use them all. Will warn you though they are pretty loud, it's a rather high speed motor and a serious gear box, kind of sounds like slightly quieter RC Car Too loud to have running in the living room when your home or sleeping but fine for a fish room or if it runs when you'd be away.
This dual head pump I'm using now was the same exact way, that was why I went and got the pwm board to slow it down and quiet it up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251356345922?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
That's the one I picked up, no whirring from the frequency at all
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251356345922?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
That's the one I picked up, no whirring from the frequency at all
Great, thanks for the link, I'll give that one a try. The thing I was using I cracked open and was just a 555 chip and transistor on a pcb. Those filter caps probably make all the difference I don't have large enough ones lying around, unless I hack up a couple of audio crossovers........
And the higher frequency likely helps alot (don't know what mine was set to but not high as on high power LEDs they start blinking at very low levels)
The only issue with the clear head single head pumps I've got are that they already run so slow to begin with. The Blue ones I think have good potential to slow down as continous use dosers but not sure yet with the clear ones if they are anywhere you can hear them. They were pretty quiet with 5 volt but barely moving any thing, I'll see what flow rate tonight.
So I did some testing tonight and found out some more info:
-Each head will put out different rates (this applies to any multiple head system driven by one motor)
-For get my hype and just use 1/4" tubing for input and output
The way my system is set up, it takes a little under 22 minutes to change out 1 gallon of water. This is at 5VDC with 1.2a.
I did try to adjust the tubes on the pumps by tightening them up. This was done by loosening the housing and then pulling on the tube slightly. Rather then use a granulated cylinder for measurement, I decided to use a digital scale. I used the smallest unit possible which was grams. They are pretty, if not almost even on the output now.
The difference was very minimal prior to "calibrating" the tubes. I would say it was off by 1/4 of an oz when 16 oz was the target number. To some it might be nothing but over time it could be a difference but then again, we check salinity like we test for calcium, once or twice a week.
-Each head will put out different rates (this applies to any multiple head system driven by one motor)
-For get my hype and just use 1/4" tubing for input and output
The way my system is set up, it takes a little under 22 minutes to change out 1 gallon of water. This is at 5VDC with 1.2a.
I did try to adjust the tubes on the pumps by tightening them up. This was done by loosening the housing and then pulling on the tube slightly. Rather then use a granulated cylinder for measurement, I decided to use a digital scale. I used the smallest unit possible which was grams. They are pretty, if not almost even on the output now.
The difference was very minimal prior to "calibrating" the tubes. I would say it was off by 1/4 of an oz when 16 oz was the target number. To some it might be nothing but over time it could be a difference but then again, we check salinity like we test for calcium, once or twice a week.
AquamanE
Active member
Good info rps3- I agree 1/4 of an oz in inconsequential. doubt it will change SG or CA (not sure why Ca concerns you since it is depleted MUCH slower than ALK). I would however agree to schedule regular SG and ALK measurements. ALK should already be on your schedule for no less than once a week if not more if you have sps, regardless of AWC.
DRThompson
2018 FMAS President
remember, for a litermeter automatic water change set up you need 2 pumps. If you are only buying the litermeter main module you will still have to buy a slave/second pump (retail $99).
DRThompson
2018 FMAS President
the litermeter autowater change system has to be calibrated periodically. IMO, not as accurate as a pump with 2 heads (stenner/masterflex)
mrx66699
New member
Dave I have to respectfully disagree ........I understand what your saying about a two headed pump compared to two individual pumps but when it comes to all this calibrating your talking about ?.....I have pretty much just been a spectator of this thread do to the fact that I have a Litermeter III with remote pumps and top offs. ...but when you keep writing about all this false supposed recalibrating I have to chime in and say it has precise built-in calibration features which eliminate the guesswork of un calibrated competitive units like the stenner and unlike noisy industrial metering pumps like the stenner the Litermeter III was specially designed for critical aquarium dosing and is so quiet you can use it in your living room. It has a three-roller direct-motor drive which eliminates the noisy gears and improves flow accuracy and tubing life. It can be run dry without damage. Three independent programs control the internal pump, as well as two optional external pumps. Does the stenner/masterflex do that NOPE.....you keep saying the Litermeter III has to be calibrated over and over like its something that has to be done on a daily basis and a reason not to have it LOLOLOLO ....Mine needed to be recalibrate once in the last two years and that was after replacing the inner flex tubing (which by the way it digitally notifies you on an LCD it needs to be done (stenner/masterflex you just have to guess how many hours you have on it and hope its running efficiently after 6 months when it needs changed))....and by the way all this calibrating you speak of it took all of pushing a few buttons and about 2 minutes.....I want to do a 100 gal one time large change I just push one button and walk away no calculating how many min it needs to run no reprograming my apex to control it and all at the same time I can keep up my daily 8gal a day changes without even changing programing...I come back and want to set it the next day or an hour later to change out 60 gal yup you guessed it just a push of a button no going back to my apex calculating how many min it needs to run how much tubing I have ran and how it will affect the flow or how long it needs to run...just push the button walk away.... I can do this with three different pumps buy the way also not just one.....so now when you keep talking about all this supposed calibrating needing to be done I wonder just how much time is incorporated into the stenner jet engine calibrating compared to me just pushing a button and walking away.....just sayin
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