automatic water change
- Thread starter DRThompson
- Start date
To help clear things up, I've been considering the litermeter from the get go. Prior to getting it to work correctly and accurately, I was working on a trade for a used litermeter but the other guy backed out. A new deal I came across, so once again I'm looking forward to this trade. It's more compact, less work, and quiet.
We'll see once I get it or if it even happens. I'm a flip flopper, might have someone local that is interested in my current set up so everyone wins.
We'll see once I get it or if it even happens. I'm a flip flopper, might have someone local that is interested in my current set up so everyone wins.
DRThompson
2018 FMAS President
MrX: (Matt)- I covered this on page one. (here)
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22091534&postcount=17
Here's a copy of the litermeter manual talking about periodic recalibration
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/LiterMeter3f.pdf Here's a quote from page 7 of the manual "Over time, these pumps may slightly change their flow RATE charac-teristics and need to be re-calibrated periodically"
Also, if you do internet searches you will find complaints about the "drifting" affect requiring recalibration.
"It has a three-roller direct-motor drive which eliminates the noisy gears and improves flow accuracy and tubing life. It can be run dry without damage." - The litermeter, Stenner pumps, and masterflex pumps all have 3 rollers and can run dry.
I considered the Litermeter, but it didnt work for my needs. Probably the 2 main reasons I lost interest in the litermeter - Setup cost is too high and it's not apex compatible. Sound didnt and still doesnt matter to me since it's in my garage.
BTW, I dont even have to be near my fish tank; I can control my water change system from anywhere in the world
.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22091534&postcount=17
Here's a copy of the litermeter manual talking about periodic recalibration
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/LiterMeter3f.pdf Here's a quote from page 7 of the manual "Over time, these pumps may slightly change their flow RATE charac-teristics and need to be re-calibrated periodically"
Also, if you do internet searches you will find complaints about the "drifting" affect requiring recalibration.
"It has a three-roller direct-motor drive which eliminates the noisy gears and improves flow accuracy and tubing life. It can be run dry without damage." - The litermeter, Stenner pumps, and masterflex pumps all have 3 rollers and can run dry.
I considered the Litermeter, but it didnt work for my needs. Probably the 2 main reasons I lost interest in the litermeter - Setup cost is too high and it's not apex compatible. Sound didnt and still doesnt matter to me since it's in my garage.
BTW, I dont even have to be near my fish tank; I can control my water change system from anywhere in the world
.
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For the apex users...
If you want to turn it on and not worry about running dry because when you switch to ON, it is on no matter what... do this...
Go to modules, add a lunar sim module, address it whatever, and rename the outlet it creates to AWC_Override or whatever you want... the program is
Set OFF
Fallback OFF
For the most part this outlet will remain off on your dashboard and you'll never worry about it... it's used as a reference switch for the main outlet
Then my AWC outlet is programmed as follows
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
OSC 000:00/003:45/056:15 Then ON
If Outlet AWC_Override = ON Then ON
If LowNSW CLOSED Then OFF
Oscillate command is it's basic useage in the auto position... the next line checks to see if that virtual outlet is on or off... if it's ON then it automatically turns on the AWC outlet, however the outlet is in automatic and the final line is the float switch to check the NSW barrel to make sure it doesn't run dry.... Little bit of a fail safe if you want to activate this thing manually and not worry about forgetting it.
If you want to turn it on and not worry about running dry because when you switch to ON, it is on no matter what... do this...
Go to modules, add a lunar sim module, address it whatever, and rename the outlet it creates to AWC_Override or whatever you want... the program is
Set OFF
Fallback OFF
For the most part this outlet will remain off on your dashboard and you'll never worry about it... it's used as a reference switch for the main outlet
Then my AWC outlet is programmed as follows
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
OSC 000:00/003:45/056:15 Then ON
If Outlet AWC_Override = ON Then ON
If LowNSW CLOSED Then OFF
Oscillate command is it's basic useage in the auto position... the next line checks to see if that virtual outlet is on or off... if it's ON then it automatically turns on the AWC outlet, however the outlet is in automatic and the final line is the float switch to check the NSW barrel to make sure it doesn't run dry.... Little bit of a fail safe if you want to activate this thing manually and not worry about forgetting it.
DRThompson
2018 FMAS President
Great info; been playing with virtual outlets for a couple of months now. I use the virtual switches to manually override multiple outlets at once; it's a great feature. I just installed a low horizontal float switch in my SW barrel but havnt been able to wire it up yet. (another trip into the attic :twitch: )
AquamanE
Active member
Good info Dread and Dr. Thompson-
I keep mine simple:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 18:00 to 19:40 Then ON
If Switch6 OPEN Then OFF
"Switch6" is the horizontal float switch at bottom of fresh SW bin. I have tested it multiple times and it works like a charm. Its normal "closed" as soon as i "open" it the Stenner shuts off.
Dr- You must hate that attic by now-:lol:
I keep mine simple:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 18:00 to 19:40 Then ON
If Switch6 OPEN Then OFF
"Switch6" is the horizontal float switch at bottom of fresh SW bin. I have tested it multiple times and it works like a charm. Its normal "closed" as soon as i "open" it the Stenner shuts off.
Dr- You must hate that attic by now-:lol:
AquamanE
Active member
Matt- I wont argue the "calibration" point because of lack of Litermeter knowledge.
On the other points: I found the Stenner to be a better financial option, $273 for everything I needed, including tubing, fittings etc.
Stenner also has 3 rollers, and at the current use, the tubes will last a good period of time. It too can run dry. BTW- the Stenner came with an extra set of tubing for both heads.
As far as noise, it was no concern. The doctor told us it was loud, and it is, but i keep it in the closet behind my tank, and you cant hear it with the door closed even though my family room, as you know, is less than 10 feet away. You would have zero issues with the noise also considering you "fish room" behind your tank.
With regard to programming the Apex makes it simple. We dont need to convince you of that do we? You have an Apex so you know. i know that 100minutes gives my 2.5 g of change water. If i wanted to do more its a simple algebraic equation that even a numbskull like me can fiqure it out. Every 100 minutes = 2.5, so to get 25 gals its 100 minutes x 10= 1000 minutes. So for every 25 gals it 1000 minutes. For 100 g its 4000 minutes..see...easy.:smokin:
nivram
New member
Eddie, if you really wanted to get fancy. You could program a feed mode or buttons via a breakout box to trigger xgallons water change.
mrx66699
New member
Not sure what fuzzy math you guys work with maybe George Bush math lol ... Dave stated up front cost were his draw backs and sounds like you too so lets just see....
Water change side only as thats all the stenner can do $378 on the Litermeter III side ($279+$99) and the stenner $273 not including any kind of cost factor for control (this difference is not factoring in any kind of control of the unit as the stenner doesn't offer it, apex needed or other timers) thats a $105 difference without any control so ya its a $105 difference but when you look at the actual things your getting its not even close no longer is it apples to apples...... where the units can be placed, the control of other optional units of operation, multiple pump control and monitoring, built in lcd display with easy one button control of up to three pumps, monitoring of RO or saltwater storage units and replenishment, ato....its not even close to what you are purchasing, so ya its a $105 difference but as you can see when you start to add on other units of operation and factor control cost in I think you will find that this supposed upfront cost starts to equal out
So I guess when we look at it like this and that 2 min mysterious calibration that we need to do once every few months that may through things off by 10ml if you dont do it lol ya I guess I need to rethink things ....
AquamanE
Active member
But Matt- Apex was already here, and all i needed was a water change pump. I dont need any of that other stuff you are talking about, and if i did it would require another $99 head for LM anyways. So the $105 is a "real" difference, not a made up one. I dont have to press any buttons, its already programmed. All i have to do is make sure there is water in the fresh SW bin, something that all units require. With my 35G bin, doing 2.5 g per day, im good for 14 days, im considering one os thos 75 g guys at Western something or other, that would put me at 28 days. And from beginning i said calibration was not a determining factor for me.
I dont disagree with what you are saying, and might be a consideration for someone without a controller, but for me it was a no-brainer. :love1:
I'm only sitting at $30 for my pump solution from that one I linked earlier, he'll take 20 if you make an offer (shhh, don't tell anyone, and he has 89 left after the 4 I bought) If it pans out I should have a full controller based auto water change system with controller and floats, etc for under $50 and if that doesn't pan out I've got a nice doser pump for 2 part plus whatever else......
My pumps should arrive this week(hoping the tubing from my other pump find fits so I don't have to order any to get them up and running, we'll see), I thought they arrived today but when I went to pick the box up off my steps I darn near fell over backwards as the huge box was so light, I ordered 4 of those pumps just because I have so many tanks and spare parts are always good. (I forgot I ordered a new range hood filter for my stove, LOL! horribly excessive packaging, a 14" by 24" box for a tiny little filter?)
My pumps should arrive this week(hoping the tubing from my other pump find fits so I don't have to order any to get them up and running, we'll see), I thought they arrived today but when I went to pick the box up off my steps I darn near fell over backwards as the huge box was so light, I ordered 4 of those pumps just because I have so many tanks and spare parts are always good. (I forgot I ordered a new range hood filter for my stove, LOL! horribly excessive packaging, a 14" by 24" box for a tiny little filter?)
jonnyu
New member
Agreed. full apex control is very nice option. And never worry about calibration is nice as well. Matt already had LM so worth keeping I guess but if someone has to choose from LM or ST pump it should be a no brainer if you have a apex unit.
That was for the 3 head doser right zachts? I may just go ahead and buy one for my future frag system... that way i can do nsw to tank, tank to frag, frag to drain
Yep $30 each to my door for the 3 head Ametek(sp?). I don't think it is quite as powerful. The listing has it at 60ml per minute, so just under 1 gallon per hour, just about right depending on how loud it is, I could just have it run when no one is home or in the morning when I need to get my but out of bed anyhow!
I bought one of the rack setups as well so once I figure out how many I can actually use I'll have a few spares to part with. I'll start a thread for that project at some point. I found a few arduino doser threads a while back perhaps I'll just resurrect one of them.
Patience! I don't have them yet.........
lnevo will get his first I imagine, If it hasn't arrived already, he ordered well before I did as my first offer on them was declined, soooooo, by this weekend....
