automatic water change

[AquamanE]

I have a conductivity probe also; cant say i'm happy with it. I've noticed that I get more consistant readings if it is in a high flow area (between the baffles) verses just sitting in the return chamber of my sump.

Dr- I wouldnt mind getting one of these. Do you think it will help monitor? Or is my weekly-bi weekly checking enough?

 

[Sacohen]

If think it will always help.
Just another tool to make sure things are running correctly.

 

[flamron]

I have the conductivity probe for my apex. I've been pleased with it.

 

[zachts]

repost

I have the conductivity probe for my apex. I've been pleased with it.

 

[flamron]

Silly tapatalk....

Thanks

 

[lnevo]

automatic water change

So I think I shorted out the dimming ports on my controller. So I'm going to use the relay box and some wall warts to trigger the relays instead. At the end of the day its pretty convoluted but I'll fix it later at some point, but it involves either replacing the controller or buying an i/o module or another dimming module. Not worth it at this point....

So at this point everything is wired up, I'm waiting for another temp probe so I can add temp compensation for salinity and I need to add a high level float switch so I can automate the salt mixing process here too.

Essentially, I'll be adding salt to my water once a week or so which will raise the salinity causing my controller to disable AWC and add enough ro water to lower the salinity to my target. Add in enough mixing time and AWC gets reenabled.

Getting closer... At least all the technical work is done. Now i just need to figure out where and how I'm mounting everything....

 

[AquamanE]

I have the conductivity probe for my apex. I've been pleased with it.

its not jus the cost of the probe, but another module is necessary right?? I think its called a PM2. What else can be done with a PM2?

 

[flamron]

Correct. You need the PM2.

It has an additional port for temp probe and another port for a break out box.

 

[AquamanE]

Correct. You need the PM2.

It has an additional port for temp probe and another port for a break out box.

LOOL. So does main Apex unit, so what else would i spend $100 for? LOL.

 

[rps3]

LOOL. So does main Apex unit, so what else would i spend $100 for? LOL.

They just want you to feel better by throwing out a few extras instead of just paying for the outlet for the salinity probe.

 

[Sacohen]

For the peace of mind that your salinity is were it should be anytime you want to check it.

 

[lnevo]

So this is my mock ghetto rig right now. I'll get a piece of plywood to transfer it to and mount to the wall. Maybe hang the RO/DI filter on it too.

Still working on some wiring. Please excuse the disposable tupperware project boxes.

 

[rps3]

So this is my mock ghetto rig right now. I'll get a piece of plywood to transfer it to and mount to the wall. Maybe hang the RO/DI filter on it too.

Still working on some wiring. Please excuse the disposable tupperware project boxes.

Taptalk quote so people on the iPhone can see it. LOL

 

[AquamanE]

Taptalk quote so people on the iPhone can see it. LOL

That looks like a Dr. Frankenstein Experiment, glad it works.

I ordered a pinch valve to adjust the difference. Once it gets here ill repost results.

 

[lnevo]

Got a lot done today. Wired up the second float switch and mounted everything up on the wall. Everything is connected and operational.

Still need to setup the networking so I can manage the controller. Probably need to order a bluetooth module for it too b/c programming it is going to be a pain in the ... I also need to setup the pump for RO/DI and I'm waiting on the temperature probe so I can properly measure salinity.

I'm close to being able to do a water test. Still have to figure out if I'm going to plumb the QT. I'm sure I'm missing a few things. Here's some pictures.

 

[flamron]

 

[SpectraPure]

Does the circuitry get hot inside of the Tupperware?

 

[lnevo]

Not at all. Plus i can always leave the lids off or make more ventilation holes.

 

[zachts]

Man all that Tupperware and wire scares me :lolspin: (granted it's all low power DC circuitry not likely to ever catch anything on fire, but you don't really need the hassle of an insurance guy seeing that if you ever have a house fire, unrelated of course) Just kidding, you haven't seem my ratts nest of a doser and ATO for my frag tanks......

But seriously when your all done testing things get some UL listed junction boxes or a metal panel box from the hardware store to mount all that mess, they don't cost much more than the Tupperware did...

Glad to see you almost up and running though, making progress much faster than me! All I have up and running so far is the timer controlled AC switch (with low saltwater float switch cutoff), I've got a lot of soldering and wiring to do to get everything to fit into that open box.....

 

[rps3]

Just when you thought crazy was crazy! Too many wires for me, Eddie would be going nuts looking at that and trying to figure which one is the plug to power the pump. LOL