automatic water change

HA! That's the theoretical beauty of my work in progress, everything will be labeled and use DC jacks to make all the connections for floats, 24v power, solenoid, and pump........ that way in a year or two when have to, for some reason, unhook and move everything, and I've forgotten what goes where it's all labeled with nice neat plugs.

.........lots, lots, lots, of soldering and wiring to do LOL!
 
Lnevo - have you had a chance to measure the input/output of that rig to make sure it pumps out the same it is pumping back in. I see a bunch of people on this thread have posted pictures of it running, but nobody has confirmed the accuracy. Thanks!
 
Have not tested yet. This is the first time i have the pump running via the controller. I will be setting up some temporary plumbing soon and a timer for calibration. Should be able to soon. I'm hoping the accuracy is as good as zachts was. He published his results a while back. If not I can always adjust the salinity of the fresh salt water to compensate :)
 
I have, and posted the results several pages back using the same pump setup as Inevo. very accurate, within 3% with two heads having nearly identical pumping rates. on mine the faster head pumps roughly 1 gallon more for every 24gallons changed out. So perfect to makeup for the water removed by my skimmer.
 
The care and method used to install the tubing on these (Cole-Parmer LS) pump heads impacts the flow rate consistancy also. When installed using a tool (screw driver in my case, or the special tool made for the heads, I get the results I just mentioned) but when tubing was installed only by hand just pushing it into place, then I got results off by a little more than 9%.

All the Cole-Parmer LS heads are speced to be within +/- 3% when tubing is properly installed.
 
Some of the pump heads available that have adjustable occlusion (tension on the rollers that sqeeze the tubing against the housing, also able to accomodate different size tubing that way) are able to get tolerances within +/- 0.5%

Those heads are rather pricey though even used and not nearly so common though that Watson Marlow setup I found on ebay a while back would have been adjustable in this manner but maybe not to as tight a tolerance as some of the Cole-Parmer stuff which is made often times for medical dosing equiment.
 
luckybaker4 said:
Lnevo - have you had a chance to measure the input/output of that rig to make sure it pumps out the same it is pumping back in. I see a bunch of people on this thread have posted pictures of it running, but nobody has confirmed the accuracy. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Pages wayyy back, I brought up this subject. Top of page 23 to be exact or post #551. Addressed it and corrected the issue on the Thermo-Fisher set up.
 
float switch problems

float switch problems

First of all, this is a great thread and full of a lot info. I also used this thread - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1711626

I built my water changing system based upon the info here. Thanks.

I have a Stenner 45M5 for my ATO with a latching circuit on a 55 gal barrel to control the water level. Works great.

For the NSW 55 gal barrel I have a Stenner 100DMP5 for the pushing and pulling and a float switch for low water level. It is that float switch that is causing problems. I have the NSW on a digital timer. The 100DMP5 is plugged into the float switch that is plugged into the timer. In theory, the pump should come on when the switch is closed (enough water) but it is not. I have tested the switch with other items and it works.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
What float switch are you using on the Stenner? Is it switching the pump directly? Or is it connected to a relay?

If your float switch is not the issue then there is a problem with the pump or the timer, or your wiring. Just cheack each, there arent may points of possible failure here.
 
The float switch is from autotopoff using their ato single switch. I replaced the switch that normally comes with it to their horizontal switch. It is a relay plugged into the timer, controlled by the switch, with the Stenner plugged into it. When powered the relay engages and I have tested a light, solenoid, and phone charger and they all worked. When I have the Stenner connected it does not. Right now I have unplugged the relay/switch and it runs fine based on just the timer. I am thinking that there may be too much of a current draw when timer engages, powering the relay and the Stenner all at once.

Thanks for helping.
 
hifters1 said:
The float switch is from autotopoff using their ato single switch. I replaced the switch that normally comes with it to their horizontal switch. It is a relay plugged into the timer, controlled by the switch, with the Stenner plugged into it. When powered the relay engages and I have tested a light, solenoid, and phone charger and they all worked. When I have the Stenner connected it does not. Right now I have unplugged the relay/switch and it runs fine based on just the timer. I am thinking that there may be too much of a current draw when timer engages, powering the relay and the Stenner all at once.

Thanks for helping.
Click to expand...

Yeah- I think your right based on your analysis. Reach out to autotop off and ask what max draw is (their customer service is exemplary) and compare that to Stenner draw.
 
AquamanE said:
Yeah- I think your right based on your analysis. Reach out to autotop off and ask what max draw is (their customer service is exemplary) and compare that to Stenner draw.
Click to expand...

The way you have yours currently set up is how he has it but the Apex takes out all the guessing work.
 
hifters1 said:
First of all, this is a great thread and full of a lot info. I also used this thread - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1711626

I built my water changing system based upon the info here. Thanks.

I have a Stenner 45M5 for my ATO with a latching circuit on a 55 gal barrel to control the water level. Works great.

For the NSW 55 gal barrel I have a Stenner 100DMP5 for the pushing and pulling and a float switch for low water level. It is that float switch that is causing problems. I have the NSW on a digital timer. The 100DMP5 is plugged into the float switch that is plugged into the timer. In theory, the pump should come on when the switch is closed (enough water) but it is not. I have tested the switch with other items and it works.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Click to expand...


Great thread listed above. I have to make sure to read the whole thing. Thnaks for sharing
 
rps3 said:
The way you have yours currently set up is how he has it but the Apex takes out all the guessing work.
Click to expand...


No Rps- I have no relay. The Apex becomes the relay.

But there is no reason other than what I mentioned prior that would prevent him from using a regular ATO to control his safety mechanisms. That and a timer should suffice.
 
AquamanE said:
No Rps- I have no relay. The Apex becomes the relay.

But there is no reason other than what I mentioned prior that would prevent him from using a regular ATO to control his safety mechanisms. That and a timer should suffice.
Click to expand...

Yes, Eddie, I am aware of that.

LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Overflow water level keeps rising and falling
Replies
16
Views
925
plunderisley
P
J
Losing fish possible tank crash
Replies
18
Views
629
leebca
L
Paul B
Think like a fish
Replies
1
Views
101
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
B
Water change question
Replies
11
Views
545
lb013
L
Paul B
IMO How to set up a tank to stay healthy and immune
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
zappa
Z
Back
Top