automatic water change

Theoretically, once the system is in full use, the output and input should be exactly the same considering the head itself is where the water is help, sort of like a pressure point. That's if as long as the lines coming from the fish tank and water storage tank hold suction. Output wise, it won't matter because its draining.

Hum... I was going to delete everything I said above because I just realized the line going into the tank will lose suction and will draw air into the line making the rest of the water in that line leading to the head come out. Maybe a check valve will fix this? Same goes for the output drain.

It just got technical. lol

Here's a quote from the stenner website:

"The chemical solution in the pump tube is captured between the rollers as they rotate and compress the tube. As the rollers advance, the squeezed tube section regains its original form and generates a vacuum, creating the self- priming feature that delivers a constant flow unaffected by the outlet pressure."

This tells me that the rollers pinch the tube preventing any loss in suction. At any given moment 2 of the 3 rollers are pinching the tubing closed. Check valves are not needed. Though I might ad a ball valve or check valve close to the pump for maintenance purposes.
 
Here's a quote from the stenner website:

"The chemical solution in the pump tube is captured between the rollers as they rotate and compress the tube. As the rollers advance, the squeezed tube section regains its original form and generates a vacuum, creating the self- priming feature that delivers a constant flow unaffected by the outlet pressure."

This tells me that the rollers pinch the tube preventing any loss in suction. At any given moment 2 of the 3 rollers are pinching the tubing closed. Check valves are not needed. Though I might ad a ball valve or check valve close to the pump for maintenance purposes.

I would just run the John guest ball valves to make it easier, less likely to get stuck over long periods of time.
 
Hey Dr. gives us a few days please. Well think of another reason for you to climb up to you attic again. Hey, the good news is its not the summer in a S. Fl attic like it could be, LOL

On a serious note. What is the gadget used to hook up the drain to that pipe in the attic. Im going to need a similar thing for my drain.
 
Hey Dr. gives us a few days please. Well think of another reason for you to climb up to you attic again. Hey, the good news is its not the summer in a S. Fl attic like it could be, LOL

On a serious note. What is the gadget used to hook up the drain to that pipe in the attic. Im going to need a similar thing for my drain.

LOL, every time I go up there I say "this is the last time i'm going into the attic" Been up there so many times I've laid down planks to stand on and lighting. I need to ad a frig ;)

Used a 1/2" uniseal to tap into the main vent pipe. The rest I bought at Home depot.
small amount of 1/2" pvc pipe​
1/2" female thread attachment​
1/2" threaded to 1/4" tubing adapter​

LMK if you need help with this :)
 
conclusion:
Both jugs collected 1125ml of water. This confirms the remove/replace theory.

On a special note: The pump is moving more water than I was expecting so I'll have to adjust the timing a little.

A special thank you to all the people encouraging me to do this.:fun4:


A HUGE thank you for doing this and the quality of the information. This was something I have been considering doing and unsure of the result based upon the apparently wrong information. This finally puts it to rest. I will be joining you in the Stenner venture.
 
LOL, every time I go up there I say "this is the last time i'm going into the attic" Been up there so many times I've laid down planks to stand on and lighting. I need to ad a frig ;)

Used a 1/2" uniseal to tap into the main vent pipe. The rest I bought at Home depot.
small amount of 1/2" pvc pipe​
1/2" female thread attachment​
1/2" threaded to 1/4" tubing adapter​

LMK if you need help with this :)

Yes Dr,- I need help to do this. LMK what to buy and i will do right now. I know some is from HD but dont know where to get a uniseal. Didnt know uniseals worked on PVC pipes. I gues since thet are not under pressure it works????
 
A HUGE thank you for doing this and the quality of the information. This was something I have been considering doing and unsure of the result based upon the apparently wrong information. This finally puts it to rest. I will be joining you in the Stenner venture.

My thoughts exactly SMB2415- Ive been thinking about this but never had the you know whats to do it.

My Stenner is on the way, and planning it in my head already!! Im luck Dr. Thompson is local.
 
Yes Dr,- I need help to do this. LMK what to buy and i will do right now. I know some is from HD but dont know where to get a uniseal. Didnt know uniseals worked on PVC pipes. I gues since thet are not under pressure it works????

I might have a 1/2" uniseal, if not then I'm putting an order with BRS soon so if you can't find it locally let me know.
 
I might have a 1/2" uniseal, if not then I'm putting an order with BRS soon so if you can't find it locally let me know.

RPS- after thinking about it, i already have a drain pipe that goes out to back yard for WC from sump. So i will likely just drill a 1/4" hole and have it drain from there. There is no back pressure so what would i need the uniseal for???
 
One thing I still need to debate is whether to go gradual daily changes or X amount per change. Either way I'll use a Stenner.
 
One thing I still need to debate is whether to go gradual daily changes or X amount per change. Either way I'll use a Stenner.

The pump I use is rated at 70 gal per day or 30gal/day/head. To do a 2 gal water change per day I run the pump for 12 min every 4 hours using the OSC programming feature on the apex. It's pretty much a set it and forget it. I've been monitoring my salinity just in case. If you have a controller, I would recommend a gradual daily change of 1-2%
 
EEK!! on my 800g system @ 2%=16g/day ! ouch!!

Thanks for the info Dave, your thread is providing more than advice, it actually has legs to stand on....lol
 
EEK!! on my 800g system @ 2%=16g/day ! ouch!!

Thanks for the info Dave, your thread is providing more than advice, it actually has legs to stand on....lol

16 gal/day is much easier to deal with than 200/month or week based on 25% water changes a month or week.

Definitely a gradual 1-2% change per day is easier especially if you have a controller doing the work and it all automated.

I'm going to set min up on my Reef Angle once I'm ready to do it.

Trying to decide if I want to remove and replace water simultaneously like DRThompson is doing or remove the water and then replace it.

I have always liked the remove then replace method because I know I'm getting rid of old water before putting in new water.

Doing it simultaneously I always feel that the old water is getting diluted with new water before it gets removed so you are not really removing 5 gallons of old water, it may have been diluted to 3 gallons of old water and 2 gallons of new water.

It may just be my way of thinking, but whatever.
 
Dave discussed this on page 2 and also included a link in the previous post just before the discussion. I just finished reading it and the gist of it is that the dilution is only minor if you perform consistent constant changes. A 30% one time water change would equal about 25% if performed thru consistent smaller daily changes.

But don't take my word for it read the article.
 
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/

Here's the article and the whole premiss for the idea of the continuous water change. Here's an excerpt from the article about this:



Small batch water changes: These changes are similar to the large changes above, but are much smaller and are done more frequently. Daily changes of 0.25% to 2%, for example, can be used. One could also do a series of consecutive small water changes on the same day. This method ensures that organisms near the top of the aquarium are not exposed to the air, and that water parameter shifts are less sudden. These types of changes can be done in a variety of ways, such as by removing water via a skimmer and replacing it once a day, or by simply taking out an amount (such as a half gallon) and replacing it once a day (automatically or manually). While lots of smaller changes (say, 30 changes of 1% each) are slightly less efficient than one larger one (30% in a single batch), the difference is small (30 changes of 1% each exactly matches one 26% batch water change), and consequently other factors of convenience or stress on organisms may be more important.

In doing batch water changes of 2% or less, aquarists need not particularly worry about the changes in the water parameters that will result, as long as the new water is of reasonable quality. For example, a 1% change with new water at 55°F from a basement reservoir will change the aquarium temperature only from 81°F to 80.74°F. Differences in salinity are also unlikely to be significant.


Continuous water changes: Continuous water changes, despite their name, are not necessarily performed every minute of every day. The distinguishing feature of these changes is that water is added at the same time that it is removed. The actual rate of addition can be high or low. Reef aquarists (myself included) most often perform these types of water changes with two matched pumps, one that removes the old water and one that adds the new water. Often these pumps are part of the same mechanism (such as two sets of tubing on a peristaltic pump or two heads on a diaphragm pump), but that is not a requirement. I use a dual head diaphragm pump capable of a maximum of 30 gallons per day for each head (a Reef Filler pump from Champion Lighting). In my setup, once I have a 44-gallon trash can full of new salt water, all I do to perform a 44 gallon or smaller water change is plug in the pump. The wastewater is sent down the drain. Sometimes I change 44 gallons in one shot, taking about a day and a half. Sometimes I pump for a few hours at a time, and then wait for a few days.

These changes are slightly less efficient than single batch water changes of the same total volume. A continuous water change of 30% exactly matches one batch 26% water change. As with very small batch water changes, these have the advantage of neither stressing the organisms (assuming the change is done reasonably slowly), nor altering the water level in the aquarium. The ease of doing such changes automatically also makes it far more likely that busy or lazy aquarists will actually do them.
 
Doing it simultaneously I always feel that the old water is getting diluted with new water before it gets removed so you are not really removing 5 gallons of old water, it may have been diluted to 3 gallons of old water and 2 gallons of new water.

This is a common thought, but also a mis conception according to the experts as the Dr has shown.
 
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