Awais' 120g Build

IMO I wouldn't worry about the containers. I know how everybody feels, that it may leach phosphates. But I have a cheap Walmart 32 and a brute 32 Rubbermaid. In my case I didn't have any extreme amount of phos in either container. The cheap 32 I've had for 4 years.

Phosphates aren't the only issue. Ask him how much money he lost in coral than decide if its worth skimping $10 on a water container.
 
IMO I wouldn't worry about the containers. I know how everybody feels, that it may leach phosphates. But I have a cheap Walmart 32 and a brute 32 Rubbermaid. In my case I didn't have any extreme amount of phos in either container. The cheap 32 I've had for 4 years.

I got away with it for 13 years. Its not worth the risk
 
I think your chasing an invisible enemy here (regarding SPS)"¦You might have been feeding a little much, and the food grade cans may be an issue, but how long has your tank been fully up and running? Based off this thread, I'm seeing something like 3 months maybe? Regardless of where your numbers are at (NO3, ALK, Ca, etc.) there is something special about a mature (aged) tank that you just can't measure"¦I think that might be your main problem (with SPS specifically). Give your tank a good 6 to 8 months and add things slowly to ensure the tank is ready to support it.

Another good indicator is coralline algae. I see people throwing SPS frags in tanks with no coralline algae on the rocks and wonder why their SPS die. If your tank can't support coralline algae, it most likely isn't ready for SPS corals"¦Likewise, if you have great coralline algae growth, you'll likely have great SPS growth. As with anything, this varies from tank to tank and coral to coral, but I think coralline is a good (basic) indicator for SPS (and overall tank health in general)"¦

Just my thoughts"¦Best of luck"¦I still have some easy SPS for you when your ready"¦

Thanks Justin,

What you say does make sense. Ive heard that from more then a few people now.
Yep its been about 3-4 months since cycle and I think I just jumped too fast. There are only few things that we measure and I bet there must be many more variables that we have no clue about.
I'll wait for few more months.

I agree re coralline and I do have steady coralline grown, its in spots all over the tank, which I consider a good sign.
I also have the whole system teaming with pods, Im especially excited about this.

Thanks for the offer, I have not forgotten that :fun4:
 
Thanks zero26,

I value your opinion but as everyone else, I am learning from mistakes too. If I had to do it all over again, there were some short cuts I took with money and am learning now....:D Next time I wouldnt do that.

Like DSmack and VSpeck pointed out, I never had any issue with phosphate, and it must be other 'goodies' in those cans.

I just changed the cans to Brute grey colored ones. Infact I also plumbed one for easy water changes. You'll see the video very soon!
 








<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7MS1bDxH5FQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Water change made easy, just turning 3 knobs total.
1 knob from the manifold to get the water out to the drain.
Another knob to open the new saltwater from the brute to the tank
3rd to shut the continious recirc mixer knob in the brute can.

The earlier Mag 3 pump that i had in the modified recirc BP reactor, is cleaned throughly with a wire brush and vinegar and now powering the saltwater mixer and water changer.

I bouth a cheaper aqua rio 350G rated and connected to the BP reactor...and you can see the flow in the above video, its vigorous too.

I did not feed from the manifold into the BP reactor because that way id loose the recirculator mode....( i know someone was going to ask me that)
 
And with all the mortality with the corals.
I found one good find...

The eagle eye zoa was 15 eyes when i got them, mid April.
2 month later there are > 20!!!

Intial pic



current pic,
Ill have to take and Il post it tomorrow!
 
Does coral dip has something to do with mortality too?

Seems to me atleast some softies seemed to really get lifeless after the coral dip and probably died beacuse of that too?
I used coral dip rx pro diluted as intructed, for 15 minutes.
 
Does coral dip has something to do with mortality too?

Seems to me atleast some softies seemed to really get lifeless after the coral dip and probably died beacuse of that too?
I used coral dip rx pro diluted as intructed, for 15 minutes.

Sounds to me you are over thinking this, try one thing at a time and keep it simple. Changing multiple aspects of your system all the time will only delay stability, which is what you are ultimately trying to achieve.
 
Here the current shot of the eagle eye

null-11.jpg
 
Sounds to me you are over thinking this, try one thing at a time and keep it simple. Changing multiple aspects of your system all the time will only delay stability, which is what you are ultimately trying to achieve.

Yeah what he said. Slow your roll :D

Emerald crabs are cool :beer:
 
Emerald crabs are the best algae eaters Ive found by far. Get a couple of those and watch your problem disappear. Dunno why I didnt think of that before. Good job Smackers!
 
I forget the reason, when I was researching initially, I had found hermits has some disadvantages, which I do not remember now:) and hence never got a single crab.



Emerald crabs are the best algae eaters Ive found by far. Get a couple of those and watch your problem disappear. Dunno why I didnt think of that before. Good job Smackers!
 
Hermits aren't the same as emeralds. Hermits like to kill snails for their shells, emeralds normally don't hurt anything unless underfed.
 
'Underfed' and with whole SLASH telling me to reduce feeding, what would 'well fed' be for emeralds, so they dont harm others?
Seriously, Id like to know.


Hermits aren't the same as emeralds. Hermits like to kill snails for their shells, emeralds normally don't hurt anything unless underfed.
 
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