Big submersible that can handle on/off

Capt_Cully

Active member
I've got a really nice gyre rolling producing what I think is decent growth. I'm thinking of putting a larger sized submersible in the sump and kicking it on for a few minutes every hour or two to break the gyre and create some randomness.

Any pumps you can think of that old handle this for a prolonged period? (Don't want powerheads)
 
Help me understand this. Would this kind of be like a second return pump whose outlet in the display breaks up the gyre?

If so, wouldn't the additional water going down your drain to the sump be an issue? I remember you're running a Bean Animal style, but if you get a beefy submersible running, would it risk overflowing the display if your drain can't keep up?
 
Oh it'll keep up Bub!

You are correct though. I don't want to alter the flow pattern by changing the program on my Vortechs, but I do wan to jam a fat monkey wrench in the flow for a minute or two every hour during prime time.

If I recall Gary used a Mag 5 or 7 at one point, but I don't think, long term,it will handle it.
 
Cully to my knowledge, anything that will withstand short cycling for any lengthy duration would need to be a sealed oil filled submersible like the ones we use in our basement sumps to keep our homes from flooding. Anything employing the mag drive style impellers will see excessive wear and tear from all the start ups. I'm sure there are pumps that could handle it for a while maybe even a year or so but would eventually give up.


Sent from the 4.
 
wow. I understand what you're trying to do. JMO but even if you run it just once or twice a day a big Mag will burn up over time.

I replaced my in-tank Mag 7 DIY "powerhead" with an MP40... then a MP60.
 
If it's gonna sit in your sump, why not do a sump-pump?? You can completely eliminate the float and just control the pump with a timer.

Think about it.
 
You'd probably be better off finding a DC powerhead that is controllable. You have a controller already, right? Turning that up and down shouldn't hurt it.

Or, just use a maxi-jet 1200 or something. When it burns up in a year or two, just replace it.
 
A sump pump in saltwater even a good stainless bodied one would corrode and rust. I've seen some made of aluminum but still have parts that are either stainless or just painted steel. Another issue with a sump pump is if it goes some are susceptible to leaking the oil they are filled with. I don't recommend using one in your tank cully, too many chances to take.


Sent from the 4.
 
Pretty sure an Apex with a vortech wireless module will let you run your current programming and change it automatically to something else and back on a timer. That would be a monkey wrench.
 
That sounds like something I might want to look into :rolleyes:

Anyone remember Kent E's typhoon jug that used to empty like once an hour?
 
That sounds like something I might want to look into :rolleyes:

Anyone remember Kent E's typhoon jug that used to empty like once an hour?
 
That sounds like something I might want to look into :rolleyes:

Anyone remember Kent E's typhoon jug that used to empty like once an hour?

The bad part about Kent's surge tanks were micro bubbles....tons of them...and before he sold his tank (probably 3-5 years) he went to power heads and got rid of the 2 surge tanks......just an FYI
 
IME the only way to have a surge that's quiet, reliable, and bubble-free is to have it rely on some sort of expensive actuator (linear actuator, electronic ball valve, etc.) All of the siphon/air pressure/flapper valve designs I've ever seen introduce some other problem. Plus the surge still creates the drain issue. Systems with full siphons aren't always that tolerant of sudden changes in flow rate or volume between the sump and DT. Even with a system that has redundancy, it makes me nervous from a long term reliability perspective in terms of the potential to do things like trap air bubbles in the drain, flush livestock into the overflow, etc.

I agree with the others that the best way to do this is in-tank, with modifications to your current powerheads or adding another one that only comes on when you want to disturb things. I went through this same thought process when I designed my system and it was part of what lead me to choose the VFD closed loop, but I honestly haven't programmed it to respond like this yet.
 
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