BobbyV's Marineland 300DD Starphire Project

[BobbyV]

Further in-depth video clips of how I put all the pieces together for those looking for new ideas when they create a new system.













More Video's to come now that I have figured out how to do it.

Just a disclaimer on BRS. They are actually my favorite on-line company to do business with. The hair algae problem was fault of my own. I didn't understand how to properly work with the Pukani rock on the first go around. I think the rock is the high quality available and I still intend to use it 90% exclusively once it is done curing and phosphate free.

 

[launchnukes]

looks like you scored some nice zoos. great videos. definatly a top knotch system.

 

[bpcardona]

How are thing looking? I noticed a lot of equipment being sold?

 

[BobbyV]

Things are coming along nicely. My phosphates are finanlly less than .03 and all hair algae is completely eradicated. SPS is coming back. ZOA's are growing in well.

Just taking my time and learning this hobby. Thank you for your message.

 

[BobbyV]

So after much thought after learning that each Ecotech Radion is identical spread to a MH, there has to be a way to mount these three units so that they will have complete coverage over my tank.

Lighting bolt hit me this morning! I found the solution.

Before with Limited Coverage.



After with Complete Coverage. I just modded the hanging kit and extended the platform so the center of each Radion is at about 18 inches center.




Before I was at 70% intensity at 8 inches this morning. Now at 15 inches, same intensity. If I need to add more light, I still have 30% intensity left to play with compliments of the TIR lenses.

I see so many using 6 units for a 300DD! I just saved myself about $1,800.

After looking at my original AquaScape, I broke down and bought some more Pukani Rock on the BRS Memorial Day Sale. I am going to make this tank look good again.

The additional rock will be placed as close forward as possible. I only got 50 pounds, but over time I will keep buying more & more taking it slow.

After watching Mike Paletta's 300DD video on you tube, I am now motivated to cram as much SPS in this tank as possible. All kinds of species to the point where I have no idea what they are called, just color/thing #1, color/thing #2, color/thing #3 and Etc.

I will be taking out the racks now that I have my 2nd system up and running.

Notice the difference in color out put with the TIR lenses. This is on "Radiant" mode. The higher spread allows the colors to mix more, very apparent.

Also note how I positioned the WP40's I got off the group buy. This solves any dead zones in the corners and will reflect off the back at an angle, creating a bottom flow toward forward/middle to help with more rock I am adding.

Excited for that UPS man to bring me my rock!

 

[Ted_C]

Definitely - there's so much you can do with more rock in that 300. If it were me, I'd drill some holes in the new rock your getting and create some stunning archways with PVC backbones to maximize your SPS space.

 

[BobbyV]

Definitely - there's so much you can do with more rock in that 300. If it were me, I'd drill some holes in the new rock your getting and create some stunning archways with PVC backbones to maximize your SPS space.

That sounds like a good idea. I will see how things work out. Thank you for your message.

 

[Ted_C]

Both Emmett's and Jeff Berg's tank are like that - can't see the rock anymore.

I hope to be there one day too. Running a 120 means I can fit alot less diversity than you.

Mine is kind of like what you mention - a high back level with a sloping scape to the lowest rocks in the front of the tank. The problem I have is 3 large 20" pieces of Pukani right in the middle. So the stadium seating affect is acheived by stacking rocks against my overflow on top of these big pieces of Pukani (which means I lose mounting space for more corals).

Knowing what I know now - I would have broken these up into 7-10 inch pieces to make three pyramidal islands with tighter spacing between the rocks then built some archways to the back and to the front of the islands. Plant the larger growers in the back of the pyramids like pocilipora, deeper water acros in the front like red and green dragon, plating montis on the sides and staghorns closer to the top to get some height.

Maybe my next build eh?

 

[BobbyV]

Definitely - there's so much you can do with more rock in that 300. If it were me, I'd drill some holes in the new rock your getting and create some stunning archways with PVC backbones to maximize your SPS space.

I am liking this idea. How would the arch ways go? Originate from the center out?

Need some good suggestion. Deft want to keep rock on the back wall. I have about 20 inches of forward depth room along the entire 72 length. In the center I can move the smaller pieces and work with 36 inches of room depth.

Now you got me more excited about possibilities. I am going to order 60 pounds of more rock this morning so I have more to play with all of it and save an extra .35 per pound during this sale.

The first 50 pounds I told them to make all long pieces. This new 60 pounds I will tell them another order of longer pieces.

 

[Andyf30]

I would go with an odd number of arches starting in the center. maybe 3 REALLY big ones or 5 of a smaller size. Emmet if I remember correctly has 4 centered in the middle. Either way this tank is gonna look awesome haha

 

[BobbyV]

Wouldn't PVC cause internal dead zones? Aren't their acrylic rods I can use? I will need to do more research.

Thanks again for the pointers.

 

[Ted_C]

In the DD - I would get 3 dimensional on the archways so not only left to right but front to back

So a big anchor rock on the back left, another big anchor rock maybe 10 inches forward and 10 inches to the right then two archways (these would look more like triangles I am thinking - sort of like ./*\. (. and * = rock) between the anchors with 2-3 pieces per arch drilled out and connected with PVC backbones. These triangles would go from your big anchor rocks in all kinds of directions to the next anchor rock. Horizontal, semi-vertical, even as a U between the rocks. This should allow a bit of light down to the glass where you could mount a low light chalice.

Repeat for the width and depth of your tank.

I would not drill completely through the pukani - instead drill out a 3 to 4 inch hole to make the pvc framework like a peg.

I have a masonary bit you could borrow that should allow you to run 1/2" pvc backbones. As soft as Pukani is you could probably get by with a handheld rather than a hammer drill. The bit even has a 3/8" chuck so it should fit most handheld power drills.

PVC may cause deadzones - but I was thinking if both ends were sealed inside the rocks - then no big deal. You could also just plug them up with some waterweld or something too to avoid water getting into them.

 

[Ted_C]

Also - not to state the obvious but just in case - these structures should be pre-drilled and cured - then put together inside your tank. They would most likely be way to heavy and bulky to put into a bin to cure + acid wash and move to the display once they are filled with water.

 

[BobbyV]

Good call - I was going measure and create the structures then cure.

I would re assemble in the tank.

So the PVC would be like a peg - any mortar to further secure?? Just plug and play??

Thank you for the offer on the Masonary drill bit, I have something that will work. I will be SUPER careful, I agree pukani is very soft and fragil due to how porous it is.

 

[BobbyV]

I am going to YOU TUBE this - I bet there are a bunch of dummy videos for guys like me.

 

[imchris]

Anyone ever hook a pump up to their pvc framework? You could disguise the openings as holes in the rock and hide the pump behind it somewhere. You could even drill extra holes in the pvc if you foresaw any deadspots.

 

[BobbyV]

I have some good ideas - I can either use the Marco Rocks mortar - or use pegs.

Advantage of the pegs is that I am easily assemble underwater in the DT.

Instead of using PVC - I was thinking of 6 inch acrylic 5/8 rod pieces. That would be way stronger and easier to "poke" in the end of the rocks.

Or maybe use both. Get the pegs in place and additional secure of the mortar as a filler.

 

[chgries]

Pegging

Pegging

http://youtu.be/rbh4iEKlIUwI found this video on YouTube about "pegging" the rock and coral for placement. I thought it might be something you would be interested in looking at. The reason I like it is because I have drilled rock for the size of frag plugs and you really have to be careful because you can break the rock. This seems better because of the small size of the peg.

 

[BobbyV]

http://youtu.be/rbh4iEKlIUwI found this video on YouTube about "pegging" the rock and coral for placement. I thought it might be something you would be interested in looking at. The reason I like it is because I have drilled rock for the size of frag plugs and you really have to be careful because you can break the rock. This seems better because of the small size of the peg.

Wow great Idea! Thank you for sharing!

 

[MrHarvard]

Man I cant wait to see this tank fully set up and full of all those killer frags you just got! Man im jealous!!!