BobbyV's Marineland 300DD Starphire Project

Great idea. I am doing my first bare bottom tank "40b" and i am going to try that. I wonder if that idea would work pointing it down but towards the overflow so my sock would catch more of the sediment. I sure do like that rock.
 
sirrealism said:
Great idea. I am doing my first bare bottom tank "40b" and i am going to try that. I wonder if that idea would work pointing it down but towards the overflow so my sock would catch more of the sediment. I sure do like that rock.
Click to expand...

Yes sir - I have two overflows. I am placing the wp25s on slow flow to keep the water suspended.
 
Nice build.

I am planning on an acrylic 300DD tank for a FOWLR. I had a recent move where I lost a few fish and now I am starting over. Presently have a 180 tank that is a bare bottom (best decision I have ever made)
 
azjohnny said:
Nice build.

I am planning on an acrylic 300DD tank for a FOWLR. I had a recent move where I lost a few fish and now I am starting over. Presently have a 180 tank that is a bare bottom (best decision I have ever made)
Click to expand...

Barebottom is the best way in my opinion - sand is a HUGE sponge and will absorb and hold onto phosphates and nitrates.

In 5 years there is no way to combat the "holdings" and you are left with taking out all the sand.

I love the sand look - but it takes alot of effort.
 
It is official .. .. .. tested twice to confirm .. .. .. phosphates at 0.00!!

Aaaaammmmaaazzziiinnnggg!
 
I could have sworn I saw you describe either in a video or one thread your frag racks but for the life of me I cant find it.

How are these attached to your glass? Magnets or suction?

I have the eshopps frag rack and its totally gouged my glass as I moved it around while cleaning my glass (snails / sand / detritus / foreign particles between the lip and the magnets).

I'd hate to see you run into the same issue with that bueatiful tank.
 
Ted_C said:
I could have sworn I saw you describe either in a video or one thread your frag racks but for the life of me I cant find it.

How are these attached to your glass? Magnets or suction?

I have the eshopps frag rack and its totally gouged my glass as I moved it around while cleaning my glass (snails / sand / detritus / foreign particles between the lip and the magnets).

I'd hate to see you run into the same issue with that bueatiful tank.
Click to expand...

Thank you Ted for your interest and message.

I agree, I try and stay away from the glass at all costs if I can.

My frag racks are super simple.

You can view them on my tank videos.

I just took black egg crate, SCH 80 PVC, and black zip ties.

I cut the egg crate to size in custom areas of my forward or side of tank bottom.

The PVC is anchored by the zip ties. SCH 40 can work by SCH 80 is much heavier so the rack isn't pushed around on a BB.

Plus the dark materials make everything look cleaner.

The chalice frags are easy. I place a little 2x2 ceramic tile as the base. Then glue a frag plug with stem on the tile so it resembles a pedestal. Then I glue the chalice on the frag plug. As the chalice encrusts and naturally grows out and possibly down, you simply cut around the plug like a "bowl haircut" with bone cutters.

That way the original chalice eyes are never messed with to ensure survival of the mother original "frag".

All my chalice frags I acquire I will do this to so then when I have frags from the original piece, I will put on those on the rocks and never touch.

The original frag is the piece I constantly mess with.

Chalices are really expensive and be fussy to frag once on a rock, so if I have patience I think of this method of "paying myself back" by putting the first frag investment on the rock I ensure my odds and increase my confidence cutting up certain specimens.

I have a Jason Fox Jack o Latern that I have growing out onto a 3x3 disc. I will wait till the disc is covered and cut it up into fourths. One piece on the rocks as my insurance, one piece to keep as a frag to start again and two pieces to either sell or trade.

My method may be backwards to sum, but we are all a bit unique.
 
I have had little experience with barebottom tanks and it's great to have been able to see such a fine example. Seeing your tank the other night has really got me thinking about going for a BB but I still am attracted to sand. What I think I may end up doing is in my attached 40 breeder I may keep BB to keep the frag tank cleaner. I have been holding back getting this new tank running due to lazyness and well working (same thing for me) but now I'm in high gear!

Great to see the tank is running low phosphates and it really was weird to see no algae at all!
 
MstgKillr said:
Why did you get rid of your 818 calcium reactor and how are the Vortechs working out for you?
Click to expand...

Out of personal choice I prefer dosing pumps. One less thing to clean.

Vortechs in my opinion are worth the money. No problems rock solid.

Nice to plug into Apex wxm.

Thank you for your message.
 
Bobby, love the tank and have been following your thread for a few months now. I'm setting up this same tank as a FOWLR. Are you still using the dual herbie? Any issues or tips you can provide for tuning the flow? I am considering T'ing both the siphon lines together with one gate but also interested in how difficult it has been for you to tune them independently.

Thanks in advance!
 
Yes - dual Herbie method is silent. My skimmer pump is the only thing you hear in my sump. And MP60's spool up on reef mode.

Simply rotate the drain valves - once you play with it and get it perfect you will never need to touch the valve again!

It does take a little brain power engineering the pvc to your sump, but it is worth it.

Most importantly, pick out your return pump.

I use an Eheim 5000 as a direct return - all my media/chiller and etc have their own pumps. (I also have a back up Eheim 5000 just in case for emergencies.)

Have your preferred Return pump at full blast to ensure good water turn over - then adjust your drains accordingly.

Also be super carful when adding your bulk heads on the drain - make sure to reinforce them with silicone on the rubber washer ring or they will leak on you.

Many DIY YouTube videos for help.

I wish you good success - thank you for the compliment.
 
BobbyV said:
Yes - dual Herbie method is silent. My skimmer pump is the only thing you hear in my sump. And MP60's spool up on reef mode.

Simply rotate the drain valves - once you play with it and get it perfect you will never need to touch the valve again!

It does take a little brain power engineering the pvc to your sump, but it is worth it.

Most importantly, pick out your return pump.

I use an Eheim 5000 as a direct return - all my media/chiller and etc have their own pumps. (I also have a back up Eheim 5000 just in case for emergencies.)

Have your preferred Return pump at full blast to ensure good water turn over - then adjust your drains accordingly.

Also be super carful when adding your bulk heads on the drain - make sure to reinforce them with silicone on the rubber washer ring or they will leak on you.

Many DIY YouTube videos for help.

I wish you good success - thank you for the compliment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. My tank actually came with two Eheim 1102 (older version of 5000) pumps and I was going to try and run both. Do you feel one is sufficient? It would be nice to have a backup to use for water changes, etc...

Good advice on the drains - I will add the silicone as a backup measure.

Trying to map it all out - your pics have been very helpful in adapting something to work with my setup. It looks like you used 1" pipe in most places - has that been large enough?

I really appreciate the help!!
 
MstgKillr said:
BobbyV,

Do you have any plans to skin the stand? I assume you going to keep an open top so no canopy.

Any updates?
Click to expand...

Sometime in the future we are redoing our kitchen.

I will have the cabinet worker skin the stand to match the kitchen when the times comes.

(which will be a long time from now)

Thanks for the inquiry.

Yes, the top will be left open.
 
Hey Bobby.
I've re-read your whole thread for a little inspiration. Considering an upgrade myself to a 280 or maybe a 300 with an external overflow (and want the sump and everything underneath instead of a fish room).

I didn't see it noted in your thread - during your initial set-up - how'd you cycle the tank with the rock? I have a few theories on Pukani I'm seeing in other large builds and would like to hear how you did yours.
 
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