Brown dinoflagellates in Sps tanks

Update my Dino's are nearly gone I added 30 hermits for the little bits of hair algae that lingered after my red bug treatment in August. I discontinued h202 dosing 2 weeks ago some of my Sps started to loose color, this week was the first water change since I started the thread I did about 5 gallonsand removed the little bit of Dino's left in the tank. I have a few minor quater sized spots on one rock other than that they don't seem to be reproducing at all. I will continue wet skim and lite feeding of the fish but Im finally on the tail end of this thing. Btw I never did a black out I figured this would do more harm than good. I'm still running a po4 level of .04 but I'm not sweating that at all. Happy holidays everyone just wanted to do quick update :).
 
Do you dose 3% h2O2 at 1ml per gallon "per day"?
Day and night or just a night?
Do you dilute in RODI?
Do you dose the overflow, sump, skimmer, or DT?

I'm 600gal, so 60ml a day for a week is 420ml. I use 1500ml containers so that's three weeks worth if my math is right.
 
I dosed 3% @ 1ml per 10 gallons everyday at night for close to if not over a month and I diluted in tank water and poured it into my sump near my drain where I have good flow.
 
Ok. I've set up an hourly dose to deliver that ratio (@600gal) for 20hrs a day. I'm on total blackout so all time is nighttime. I've set it to run automatically for 25 days straight before refilling.

Peroxide is very cheap. Given that it's not harmful to the reef, why doesn't everyone dose it?
 
As long as your not exceeding 60 ml's a day you should be fine I would strongly recommended not going over that amount! Just make sure to be extra vigilant to see if anythings unhappy. To answer your question no one knows what the long term effect are most people do it temporarily.
 
Thanks.
By the way, my dinos grow in the shade under rock ledges (without bubbles) and on the top (with bubbles).

My parameters are 1.023 SG (31 salinity), pH 8.5, dKH 12, Ca 460, Mg 1460, PO4 unmeasurable. I dose LaCl and have a large macro algae ATS for phosphate control.

Question on the pH. To keep my pH so high, my Kalk reactor and Apex run a lot of RODI (separate control loop than my ATO which doesn't run at all due to the influx of kalk water on pH-demand). My salinity drops and I have to remove water from my system and add salt. Anyone else experiencing this?
 
The stuff in the shade is darker brown and the stuff on the top is nearly clear.

My snails died right after my massive sea hare.

I've been patient, but my 10" Naso died on Friday from eating it. My sps are in mixed conditions ...
 
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It's a new tank so they're all frags
 
Your going to battle a double edge sword while keeping your ph may help with Dino's adding salt is going to fuel there growth. Are you running a calcium reactor?
 
No. I use my kalk reactor for pH, dKH and Ca. I add Mg, Strontium and Molybdenum. That gets me to 460 Ca.

I've started adding CaCl to get to 500ppm+ to accelerate my coralline and help mature the calcium base.

I have DSB and mud in my refugium sump/ATS region. Also have a 2" aragonite sand bed in the DT.
 
I also run a Phosban reactor but with Phosguard instead. Also run two fishes GAC in a filter bag. I don't run any sponges or socks - open plankton mode to help my pods take root. I put a sock on when I clean.

My dino attack happened after I went on a business trip and lost my main pump for a week.
 
Maybe run my fans longer and at any temp + increase temp from 74 to 80 to increase evaporation?

It takes a lot of energy to heat up 600g by 6 degrees in the winter, but I can try if it'll increae evaporation enough to make a difference.
 
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