build has finally started

jacksonpt

New member
I've been planning (i.e. over thinking) this for a long time now, and I finally got started on the actual build.

The plan is to replace my beat up 30long with a shiny new 38. I have a very restricted footprint to work in, thus the odd size. I'm still going back and forth on how I want to setup the sump, but everything else is pretty well set.

After about 10 years of home ownership, I've come to the conclusion that most household/DIY projects I take on end up working just fine, but looking like they were DIYed. So when fit/finish/appearance is important, I do the smart thing and outsource it. I had the stand and canopy built by a friend and requested that the inside of the canopy be covered with formica.

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I drilled the new tank last night. I went back and forth for a long time about how to overflow it... custom box or glass holes, and if glass holes, which one(s). I couldn't get a custom box made up that I was excited about for a reasonable price, so I went with tried and true glass holes. Once everything is said and done, I could be running ~900-1000gph, so a single 700gph box wouldn't be big enough. A 1200gph box is bigger than I wanted, so I went with 2 700gph boxes. They take up a bit less room compared to a single 1200, and hopefully will be quieter. We'll see.

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Painting has begun... I'm using a black appliance spray paint by Rustoleum. It doesn't coat very evenly (maybe it's operator error?), so I'm doing several very thin coats. So far I've got 4 coats down, doing 4 more tonight and then I'll see how it looks.

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Me too! Formica is a nice touch and the wave profile of the side of the canopy is really cool. 3 car garage ain't too shabby either :thumbsup:
 
One other thing... not especially exciting, but different from a lot of builds...

I cut the teeth of the glass holes boxes. The one I'm using now pulls a fairly thick layer of surface water, it doesn't really take a nice thin skim. Cutting the teeth off should about double the linear overflow. Adding a second box should then double that, so hopefully the surface skimming will be greatly improved.

Pulling a nice thin layer of water also means that less water drains into the sump when the return pump loses power, so I won't need quite as much "flood" room in my sump for when the power goes out.

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Painting is done... Up close you can see a couple of spots where the paint went on too fast/thick, but it'll work.

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I started laying out the plumbing... just test fitting and mapping out where the pipes are going to run at this point. I'm not sure how the return is going to work at this point... anyone know how to connect loc-line to PVC?

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What's your thinking regarding the returns? Pump and layout?

Pump is a Blueline Velocity T4. Plan is to use 1.5" spaflex the entire vertical run, then slpit into 2 return, both 1" spaflex. Outlets will be loc-line pointed down along the back glass behind the rockwork. I'm also going to go with spaflex for the drain lines as well.

That's the plan at least.

I didn't see any 1.5" spaflex at lowes the other day... hoping Home Depot has some. I might also check with a couple of the local pool/spa places.
 
I know oversizing the intake is supposed to help. I don't know if doing it on the outflow helps. I'll defer to the pros on this one. Not trying to belabor the point, just trying to help out. I had a heck of a time figuring mine out, so if we can learn from my mistakes, it may save you some cash and headaches in your head.
 
Just as an FYI... I asked about upsizing the plumbing on my pump over in the DIY forum...

yes on most pumps upsizing the plumbing will help reduce frictional losses and therefore increase the flow...(not so much increase but rather get a little closer to manufactures rating)...

you definitely NEED to increase the inlet side of the pump, and remember no elbows/ restrictions within 9" of the volute. obviously exceptions have to be made from time to time...also upsizing from 1" to 1.5 or 2" inlet should take no more space then 1/4" providing you can find the appropriate bushing...i am pretty sure they make a 2" to 1" bushing...i know they make 1.5" to 1" and a bushing only uses 1/4" of space..

For any reasonable length run, going above 1.25" or 1.5" for this size pump (on either the suction or discharge ports) quickly passes the point of diminished returns.

Increasing the suction side does little to increase the throughput, but the suction side should be as large as the dishcharge side to prevent cavitation. Again, if the discharge is 4", a 1.25" suction (on this pump) would still be fine, as the 4" discharge pipe (at the distances we are talking about) would not increase the flow much more (if at all) compared a 1.25" discharge.
 
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