Building My 375gal Glass Reef

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When I was young, my choice was a.engineer or a.retentive. I'm the that wants it all - so I combined them
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14557338#post14557338 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Oldtimer
My guess is that he's another anal engineer.
So then, he's a proctologist!
 
:lol: - Looks like Dudester blew his cover.

Really is top notch work here. I love all the little attention to detail and great inspiration for my own build.
 
Hi Tom,

I know this is like way back on the third page but I'm curious about you lunar lights and how you affixed them to the light rack? I've constructed my own light rack, modeled after yours of course!, and I don't see how you have them affixed to the rack? It looks like maybe you've stuck them somehow to the aluminum unless they're screwed only on one side and it just doesn't show from the angle you took the picture from?

Could you let me know or even post "another" light pic for me? I'm really curious... Also, it looks like you used a piece of pvc to route all your wires on the rack as well, is this right? Could you maybe put up a pic of that as well? I'm really trying to mimic your clean and tidy lines as best I can for my build that I'm currently working on...

You can click on my red house to see!

Thanks,

Dave
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14577762#post14577762 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dave's Reef
... I'm curious about you lunar lights and how you affixed them to the light rack? ... Also, it looks like you used a piece of pvc to route all your wires on the rack as well, is this right? Could you maybe put up a pic of that as well?
Your build is lookin' good! Keep it going - it'll be a big success!

I attached the moon lights by simply pre-drilling a small hole in the aluminum tube and then used a SS self tapping screw.

The cable organizer I used was purchased at Lowes. I'll get the specs for you tomorrow.
 
After reading this I am going to do the same overflow as you, so I must say thank you for posting this thread. If you don't mind me asking what are the dimensions of your overflow box and what size holes did you have drilled in it? Any pictures of your returns / return plumbing?
 
Very nice build! I also have a question about your overflow. Is the main and the secondary drain of the same height? Judging from the photo, it looks like the secondary drain is slightly higher than the main one. Is that true? If so, why and how much higher?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14583515#post14583515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
Very nice build! I also have a question about your overflow. Is the main and the secondary drain of the same height? Judging from the photo, it looks like the secondary drain is slightly higher than the main one. Is that true? If so, why and how much higher?

it is 1/2" higher (from reading) to fine tune the flow. helped make a small adjustment that could not be made easily w/ the ball valve. he chose not to use a gate valve as it occupied too much space. (I spent too much time reading this :) as it is almost exactly what I want to do but on a larger scale)
 
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LOL, :)

From Tom in another thread:

The tank is 96" wide. The overfow box is centered on the back and 88" wide, 7" high, and 5 1/2" front to back. The weir extends the entire 88" with the exception of a 14" section in the middle, which serves to strengthen the back panel.

The holes are 1.5", I think.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14583515#post14583515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
I also have a question about your overflow. Is the main and the secondary drain of the same height? ... it looks like the secondary drain is slightly higher than the main one. ... how much higher?
polyped thanks for answering this question for me. :) To be fair, I should go into a little more detail.

The right overflow drain is indeed 1/2" higher than the left. The full reason (and this is going to have to be a little long winded) is, the BeanAnimal/Herbie overflow system functions using one syphon drain (no air access) and one open channel drain (has air access). When the overflow is functioning, the majority of the flow should be taking place in the syphon drain. The open channel takes a secondary position and serves to "even out" the function of the combined drains by draining any small amount the syphon drain can't handle.

When the return pump is started and water starts flowing into the overflow box, the water flows into both drains. At some point, because of no air access, the syphon drain will reach full syphon. Now, with all that said, the whole point is - the faster a full syphon is reached, the better. I have found that having the syphon drain 1/2" lower than the open channel drain causes the full syphon to form much faster, which promotes a more stable and much quieter start-up.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14584228#post14584228 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
... The tank is 96" wide. The overfow box is centered on the back and 88" wide, 7" high, and 5 1/2" front to back. The weir extends the entire 88" with the exception of a 14" section in the middle, which serves to strengthen the back panel.

The holes are 1.5", I think.
:) - Yes, all correct - except the holes are for 1-1/2" drains - but just in case there is any confusion, the actual size of the holes drilled was 2-3/8", to fit 1-1/2" Hayward bulkheads.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14584774#post14584774 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
:) - Yes, all correct - except the holes are for 1-1/2" drains - but just in case there is any confusion, the actual size of the holes drilled was 2-3/8", to fit 1-1/2" Hayward bulkheads.
Tom
Do all of the three drains tie into a common pipe (I'm too lazy to go back through the whole thread)? :p I ask the question because I want to do a BA system but he told me that the three drains should enter the sump separately to be effective.
 
Morning, Alan! The syphone pipe has to remain separate so that the integrity of the syphon is kept intact. The open channel and the backup drain could be connected without a problem.

BTW: love that stand!!! :)
 
Tom,
Since the syphon drain is submerged under water, how would the air (those that trap inside the pipe during start up time) be able to escape? Are they being pushed out from the sump? Do you happen to have pictures of how the water level in the overflow box looks like when you restart the return pump?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14586789#post14586789 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
Since the syphon drain is submerged under water, how would the air (those that trap inside the pipe during start up time) be able to escape? Are they being pushed out from the sump? Do you happen to have pictures of how the water level in the overflow box looks like when you restart the return pump?
Yes, it is just pushed out. - I'll see if I can find some pics.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14584228#post14584228 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzhuo
LOL, :)

From Tom in another thread:

The tank is 96" wide. The overfow box is centered on the back and 88" wide, 7" high, and 5 1/2" front to back. The weir extends the entire 88" with the exception of a 14" section in the middle, which serves to strengthen the back panel.

The holes are 1.5", I think.

dzuho, between the two of us it seems that we have understood everything :) see two brains are better than one

Tom, thank you for the responses and yes I was asking about the diameter of the holes not the bulkheads so thank you much.
 
Dave's Reef - Dave, the cord organizer you were asking about is called "CordMate - cord cover" it's 36" long and has a self adhesive backing to stick it to any smooth surface. In effect, its a spilt half circle. You crack it open, insert the cable and then snap it closed. It's a very light beige color and is sold at both Lowes and Home Depot in the electrical dept.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14587326#post14587326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
Dave's Reef - Dave, the cord organizer you were asking about is called "CordMate - cord cover" it's 36" long and has a self adhesive backing to stick it to any smooth surface. In effect, its a spilt half circle. You crack it open, insert the cable and then snap it closed. It's a very light beige color and id sold in the electrical dept.

Can this be found at Home Depot or the like I presume?
 
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