Building My 375gal Glass Reef
- Thread starter GlassReef
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Can't wait to see your tank on Saturday.
Yes, that would be too much, IMHO, for a 150gal. I used 1-1/2" pipe. You can go down to 1". Most commonly used return motors can be throttled back quite a bit. I know the Reeflo Darts, that I use, can be dialed back 60% or 70% (and more) without any problem. It's the way they're designed - watts used even goes down the less you pump.
dzhuo
Active member
crap, i already have the external box drilled for 3 1.5". what about the following:
Would this give me lower turnaround? (I also asked Bean about this in another thread so hopefully someone can help me out here)
I don't have a reactors (not planning to use one at this stage, thinking about dosing pump intead) or chiller so I have nothing to T off. I can probably T off a little to the fuge but that's not much...
Would this give me lower turnaround? (I also asked Bean about this in another thread so hopefully someone can help me out here)
I don't have a reactors (not planning to use one at this stage, thinking about dosing pump intead) or chiller so I have nothing to T off. I can probably T off a little to the fuge but that's not much...
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I don't know what Tom would suggest but I believe that you should tie the two emergencies together and separate the primaries (open and syphon), (this is what BeanAnimal told me).
Also I believe that the gate valve should be on the open drain and let the syphon run without restriction -- at least that's my understanding of his design from his web site.
Also I believe that the gate valve should be on the open drain and let the syphon run without restriction -- at least that's my understanding of his design from his web site.
dzhuo
Active member
Alan,
The reason why I have 3 1.5" holes drilled is because I was planning to use BeanAnimal's design but since I am pretty new to plumbing, I am worrying that I might not be able to set up Bean's design properly. This design I posted above isn't the same as Bean, it's a herbie design with a couple emergency drains.
I would still go with Bean's design but the huge turnover seems unnecessary because my tank is only 150g.
The reason why I have 3 1.5" holes drilled is because I was planning to use BeanAnimal's design but since I am pretty new to plumbing, I am worrying that I might not be able to set up Bean's design properly. This design I posted above isn't the same as Bean, it's a herbie design with a couple emergency drains.
I would still go with Bean's design but the huge turnover seems unnecessary because my tank is only 150g.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Oh -- okay now I understand what you're doing. I already ran a 1-1/2" drain to my basement equipment room so that pretty much rules out a BA system. I'm going with two Dursos and two emergencies but will see what you end up with before I commit.
The fact that you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes doesn't preclude using Bean's design. The turnover through your overflow is going to be based on how much water you are pumping. If I was in your situation I would probably just add 1" > 1-1/2" adapters above the floor of your overflow box. You said you already drilled for three 1-1/2" drains. That makes:
1. syphon drain - this should have a valve, be it ball or gate. I have a ball on mine, but if I had it to do over again I'd install a gate valve - much easier to fine tune. The valve allows you to tune the drain (within reason) to the size of your pipe and the flow of your pump.
2. open channel drain - this is there any surplus water is accepted that the syphon drain can't handle. Ideally, you would adjust the valve on the syphon drain so that a little water is diverted to the open channel drain.
3. backup/failsafe drain - as the name suggests, this is for situations where one of the other drains clogs, etc.
I guess my point is - even if you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes - you can still use the BA design. It's just a matter of adjustment.
Mike, Alan, (or anyone else, for that matter) jump in here if you see points where I have gone wrong.
1. syphon drain - this should have a valve, be it ball or gate. I have a ball on mine, but if I had it to do over again I'd install a gate valve - much easier to fine tune. The valve allows you to tune the drain (within reason) to the size of your pipe and the flow of your pump.
2. open channel drain - this is there any surplus water is accepted that the syphon drain can't handle. Ideally, you would adjust the valve on the syphon drain so that a little water is diverted to the open channel drain.
3. backup/failsafe drain - as the name suggests, this is for situations where one of the other drains clogs, etc.
I guess my point is - even if you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes - you can still use the BA design. It's just a matter of adjustment.
Mike, Alan, (or anyone else, for that matter) jump in here if you see points where I have gone wrong.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Tom
You got it right.
and gate valves are much better than ball valves for controlling flow.
You got it right.
and gate valves are much better than ball valves for controlling flow.nivenethan
New member
What are you doing for humidity & temperature control? I'm setting up a 600 gallon system in a room sealed off from the rest of house in basement. Really struggling with this.
Any advice would be awesome?
Any advice would be awesome?
dzhuo
Active member
sounds good so basically do a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" to the primary syphon drain? and leave the rest as 1-1/2"?
if i put a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" how much flow reduction are we talking about here? you mention a full 1-1/2" syphon will give me more than 2000gph, how much would a 1" syphon be then?
Thx for taking the time to help me out!
if i put a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" how much flow reduction are we talking about here? you mention a full 1-1/2" syphon will give me more than 2000gph, how much would a 1" syphon be then?
Thx for taking the time to help me out!
bbehring
New member
Nivenethan, take a look at this thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=917188
Cato built in his basement and had to address humidity and temp control. Plus it's a great thread!
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