Calcium reactor and kalkwasser

scuzy

Active member
Since running my calcium reactor my ph been low around 7.8-7.94 and was wondering if I should top of with kalkwasser to get ph in the 8.1-8.3 range? I have tried piping in outside air to my skimmer but that didn't budge.

Was thinking of using two apex pmup from my ato reservoir. One pump will pump just regular ro water in if ph > 8.3 and the other pmup will pump water through kalkwasser reactor if ph < 8.3 would this work?




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I wouldn't chase the PH with a variable kalk system, just run it all the time. I tried that many moons ago and it ended up being rather pointless.

Use a dual float switch (close to the same level) and a slow peristaltic pump. I aim for 25-50% runtime on my ATO pump when using kalk. This way if both float switches fail for some odd reason you have time to realize what is going on. Way to many horror stories out there when using a centrifugal style pump or reef controller to time the pump.

I use the standard masterflex pumps with a set RPM. Usually between 6 and 18rpm depending on tank size. You can usually get them pretty cheap with a head on fleabay.

If you want to use a reactor, go with the kind that has a stirrer and not a pump to circulate the kalk. I really like the aquamedic, it's simple and has lasted me 10 years even though it was used when I got it.
 
Calcium reactor and kalkwasser

I wouldn't chase the PH with a variable kalk system, just run it all the time. I tried that many moons ago and it ended up being rather pointless.

Use a dual float switch (close to the same level) and a slow peristaltic pump. I aim for 25-50% runtime on my ATO pump when using kalk. This way if both float switches fail for some odd reason you have time to realize what is going on. Way to many horror stories out there when using a centrifugal style pump or reef controller to time the pump.

I use the standard masterflex pumps with a set RPM. Usually between 6 and 18rpm depending on tank size. You can usually get them pretty cheap with a head on fleabay.

If you want to use a reactor, go with the kind that has a stirrer and not a pump to circulate the kalk. I really like the aquamedic, it's simple and has lasted me 10 years even though it was used when I got it.



Yeah I'm going to use a kalkwasser reactor that's has a stirrer. Will pump in a small amount of kalkwasser top off at a time. What about using a apex DoS? One does pump for kalkwasser reactor one for regular ro. Depending on ph it will turn on the right DoS head.


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I don't have any experience with them but assume it will go through an Apex. I wouldn't do that unless there is a float switch between the apex and the pump. You want to be able to cut power to the pump in case something goes wrong.

PM sent.
 
Yeah the apex will cut power


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If the apex fails you need a float switch between it and the pump. Personally I avoid running kalkwasser on any reef controller and just use the reef controller as another way to cut power to the system.

If you already have the ATO system setup through a dos and the apex has dual floats maybe there is a way to make it foolproof.
 
Calcium reactor and kalkwasser

You mean like a floating ro shutoff?

fb4108ea6e06d854dac75fbc235cea08.jpeg


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Not a float valve, a float switch (well a pair of them). Preferably a set that has a good track record against binding. autotopoff.com sells some good ones.
 
Ah I was getting confused cause I already have double float switch for apex ato.


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Calcium reactor and kalkwasser

ce9d9521768f88db2d85d0d30dea8218.png


Was thinking of doing this

Pmup1 programing

When low pump kalkwasser in if ph 8.3

This way I can have ato pump either water or kalk in depending on ph

And I will have a fail-safe float to kill the power to both pumps if level is too high


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I would let the tank have PH in that range before I trusted a hobby grade PH probe to be accurate. PH like that is not an issue for anything. Failed kalk top off system crashes are abundant. CO2 in the ambient air is most likely your PH problem and getting fresh air into the home is a safer and easier way than dosing kalk like this.
 
I would let the tank have PH in that range before I trusted a hobby grade PH probe to be accurate. PH like that is not an issue for anything. Failed kalk top off system crashes are abundant. CO2 in the ambient air is most likely your PH problem and getting fresh air into the home is a safer and easier way than dosing kalk like this.



My skimmer is drawing fresh air from a tube on the other side of the wall. The air should be pretty fresh.


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Have you tried a secondary chamber to help bring up the ph of the effluent?

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My vertex has a second chamber and I have the larger of the second chamber with remag media and the smaller with more reborn media. Maybe I should swap the two and have more reborn media in it?


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My vertex has a second chamber and I have the larger of the second chamber with remag media and the smaller with more reborn media. Maybe I should swap the two and have more reborn media in it?


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Oh ok. Out of curiosity, what was your pH before the CaRx?
 
You can tune your reactor where no excess CO2 is heading out the reactor and into the tank. If you have reverse flow, one way to do this is to extend the top tube down an inch or two - this will allow the excess CO2 to build up in the top of the reactor and you can dial the CO2 back a bit if it builds up.

Even though CaRx effluent is low in PH, if it is not full of CO2, it will quickly stabilize in your tank with no, or very minimal, effect. If it is full of CO2, then it can lower the tank PH a bit.
 
You can tune your reactor where no excess CO2 is heading out the reactor and into the tank. If you have reverse flow, one way to do this is to extend the top tube down an inch or two - this will allow the excess CO2 to build up in the top of the reactor and you can dial the CO2 back a bit if it builds up.

Even though CaRx effluent is low in PH, if it is not full of CO2, it will quickly stabilize in your tank with no, or very minimal, effect. If it is full of CO2, then it can lower the tank PH a bit.



Hmm you reminded me something I swapped the two lines
Cause h should be the exit and I is recirculation but I was getting excess co2 trapped. Thanked guys this will help a lot.

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Before doing any of this test and make sure your levels are correct to start with. Chasing PH for the sake of chasing PH does not yield results.

I run both with an apex. I run the kalk with a BRS dosing pump. The key was putting a huge fan on my sump to encourage evaporation. (and keeping temp down making chiller run less often) Then there is a guessing game as far as how long to run the ATO pump at multiple times during the day. (Its seasonal if your sump is exposed to outside air) So if your sump starts to fill up you have too much time running for your ATO. (2 mins per hour 2.2 ml per hour) 175G total water volume.

The sweet spot for me looks like this:

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Time 00:00 to 00:02 Then ON
If Time 01:00 to 01:02 Then ON
If Time 02:00 to 02:02 Then ON
ect... through 23-

If you set your calc reactor based on ph within the reactor you will find the tank will tell you when to add kalk to the reactor. If you see during the day hours that the calcium reactor is not turning on your C02, because your ph is too low, (Important to set a ph level for your overall tank if its lower than 7.8 don't turn on C02) you need to add kalk to the reactor. I add 1 tbls once a week generally.(again for 175G with SPS & LPS) If you can't hit your PH you think you should be hitting check your Mg. Still can't hit it add soda ash.

C02 outlet look like this on apex: (pHx6 = ph inside reactor) (PH = ph in main tank)

Fallback OFF
If pHx6 > 6.70 Then ON
If pHx6 < 6.50 Then OFF
If pH < 7.95 Then OFF

Again this is for my tank, but it might help with yours.
GL:hmm5:
 
I also have a second media reactor for my calcium reactor and I drop the effluent into a refuge with macros growing.
 
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