chevellesteve
New member
is that a new water jug under the tank?
Calling out all Chemists!!!!
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
disc1
-RT * ln(k)
It is highly volatile and gone within minutes if not seconds. Same for the other solvents listed. They're designed to be able to use for potable water shortly after gluing.
Osteoclast
New member
What about electricity? Some new device or old worn component? The silent killer. Especially with clams dying the tank must have a unique mechanism of cell death. You have ruled out many known toxins.
nemo's janitor
New member
In the test report, What does all the "ND" represent?
I have had it where electrical current in a tank causes electrolysis to take place. This causes Sodium hypochlorite to be produced.
I have had it where electrical current in a tank causes electrolysis to take place. This causes Sodium hypochlorite to be produced.
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My suspects would be:
Metal or another toxin from somewhere;perhaps the reactor media is releasing some as it dissolves. It takes very little to harm inverts including corals, much less than might show blue on a polyfilter; some have hadmetal contamination issues with Kent reef carbon as well. I doubt a quality manufacturer would use non reeef safe silicone.
The sulfur denitrator with nitrate at 0 might be dumping some hydrogen sulfide into the tank. I'd probably run the effluent through some gfo to help quickly oxidize any that might be there. That worked or me years ago when I did it based on tip from Randy Farley. You'd probably get a whiff of the distinctive sewer gs smell near the effluent exit if it was anoxic(0 nitrate and 0 oxygen) and making hydrogen sulfide.
I'd take a hard look at specific gravity to be sure of my levels and to hold it a bit more steady. Same for alk.
Metal or another toxin from somewhere;perhaps the reactor media is releasing some as it dissolves. It takes very little to harm inverts including corals, much less than might show blue on a polyfilter; some have hadmetal contamination issues with Kent reef carbon as well. I doubt a quality manufacturer would use non reeef safe silicone.
The sulfur denitrator with nitrate at 0 might be dumping some hydrogen sulfide into the tank. I'd probably run the effluent through some gfo to help quickly oxidize any that might be there. That worked or me years ago when I did it based on tip from Randy Farley. You'd probably get a whiff of the distinctive sewer gs smell near the effluent exit if it was anoxic(0 nitrate and 0 oxygen) and making hydrogen sulfide.
I'd take a hard look at specific gravity to be sure of my levels and to hold it a bit more steady. Same for alk.
tapio
New member
I would disconnect the sulfur denitrator and see what happens. I have always kept things very simple and relying on only live rock, protein skimming for filtration and calcium reactor for calcium alkalinity, limited occasional use of carbon and nothing else. Water changes 10-15 % a month.
Make sure your RO/DI system is working properly and removing chloramines if present in your source water. Use a reputable source of media in the calcium reactor.
Make sure your RO/DI system is working properly and removing chloramines if present in your source water. Use a reputable source of media in the calcium reactor.
tapio
New member
Not aware of any chloramine tests but if you maintain your RO/DI system properly there should be no concerns.
ro/di unit is brand new from BRS made for chloramines. tds in before DI is 0 and out after DI is 0. ammonia readings are always 0.
MellowReefer
New member
Do you have children that could be playing with something, sticking their hands or toys in there, something like that? Spouse using cleaning supplies or insecticides near the tank?
no kids no wife. my tank is in the garage which i hardly ever use cars sit outside 99% of the time.
slapshot
Active member
Since your fish are OK, I suspect the LEDs. Maybe you have some bad ones throwing out some weird spectrum. I would go back to my MHs and try some sps or something that has been going fast.
It really could be a small thing. I had a tank crash years ago. It was FO and everything started dying. I replaced a few and they died. I then tore everything out and guess what. Sitting half buried in the sand if the refugium was a penny. Completely green.
Did you replace your substrate when you changed tanks? The old one could be messed up with the move or the new could be contaminated. I would pull it out.
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It really could be a small thing. I had a tank crash years ago. It was FO and everything started dying. I replaced a few and they died. I then tore everything out and guess what. Sitting half buried in the sand if the refugium was a penny. Completely green.
Did you replace your substrate when you changed tanks? The old one could be messed up with the move or the new could be contaminated. I would pull it out.
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Led were sols first then vega but cant be ruled out. i am leaning towards sulfur denitrator which had media 3 yrs old and tons of crap buildup in it. i have a feeling it the media was breaking down and maybe causing some toxic stuff. i cleaned it and replaced it with fresh media. lets see what happens.
animalkingdom
New member
i'm thinking you are on the right track...hopefully things turn around. Its always frustrating when problems cant be diagnosed
MellowReefer
New member
Sometimes I think it is possible to get a bad batch of media. Recently I had several corals that were shrinking and a frogspawn lost one branch. I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong, I was keeping all parameters steady and never failed to do weekly water changes. Finally I took out 2 bags of chemi pure elite (carbon/gfo mixture) that I had in my sump and didn’t replace them because I wanted to see what would happen. After that, it seems with each water change the corals are looking better and better. So was this a bad batch of chemi pure elite? No, I wasn’t using too much, I was actually using one bag less then they recommend for my size tank.
true, it could be any of the above mentioned. i do run carbon and have seen bunch of bad batch reports on RC and GFO as well. i will replace GFO with new media and Carbon with a new source as well. sulfur denitrator's media is already replaced. i am not running anything else other than those 2 media's except cal reactor media which the unit itself is brand new and problem is pre-existing.
In post 1 you said you "cannot keep any corals happy more than few weeks."
In post 12 you said "the fish and inverts are perfectly fine and thriving. only inverts i kill are anemones and clams"
?????
Assuming the problem is with corals, the only thing that jumps out at me is the Phosban reactor. FWIW, BRS recommends 2.65 cups of GFO per 85 gallons. If you're using a single Phosban reactor for a tank your size, you may not be using enough GFO. Have you tested for phosphates? Also are you using GAC? If not, I'd recommend another reactor for GAC. FWIW, Boomer recommends a cup of GAC per 100 gals.
In post 12 you said "the fish and inverts are perfectly fine and thriving. only inverts i kill are anemones and clams"
?????
Assuming the problem is with corals, the only thing that jumps out at me is the Phosban reactor. FWIW, BRS recommends 2.65 cups of GFO per 85 gallons. If you're using a single Phosban reactor for a tank your size, you may not be using enough GFO. Have you tested for phosphates? Also are you using GAC? If not, I'd recommend another reactor for GAC. FWIW, Boomer recommends a cup of GAC per 100 gals.
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