Can't get rid of Dino

It sounds like you guys have it figured out. Chapeau!

Potassium nitrate, sold as stump remover at hardware stores, is an easy, safe source of nitrate. Extra fish food might be enough to get your phosphate up.

I won't recommend against using the stump remover, and in fact I've used it myself before, but I just want to note that for nitrate dosing there are higher grade chemicals (either sodium nitrate or potassium nitrate) available that are also pretty inexpensive.

And I have noticed that my mixtures with the higher grade sodium nitrate dissolves to perfectly clear solution, which my stump remover solution did not.
 
Well if you guys have the name of the products I'll buy it.
I like to use stuff people already know and works.
on the web there is million items, but I learn my lesson. all my corals almost dead, snails, water change, carbon,gfo, and what ever more cost me a lot of $$$.
 
I ordered the products.
looking forward to fix my tank and replace with new frags. I'm hoping this time everything will run much better.
 
Yup that is 100% Ostreopsis. Actually a pretty instructive video showing their distinct motion.

Raise nutrient levels to 0.1 ppm phosphates, 5-10 ppm nitrates. Very important to hit at least 0.1 phosphates. Run fresh carbon and change it weekly.

For a 75 gallon aquarium, run around ~300 gph through a >= ~30 watt UV sterilizer, 24/7. You can either run the UV from display-->display, or sump-->display. If you are doing sump-->display, make sure your return flow patterns are good and your return pump isn't just pumping water right back to your overflow.

They'll hopefully be gone within a few weeks, but your tank is going to have to take some time to recover its microflora and microfauna that the Ostreopsis have likely very negatively impacted.

If you want to help with their removal, siphon out as many as you can at the end of the day, and then a couple hours after the lights go off, hit your rocks with a turkey baster and help the dinos get into the water column where your UV sterilizer will kill them.

the recovery of microflora and microfauna is going to affect any corals and live stock I would like to add into the tank after the Dino is gone?
should I hold and adding anything for a while?
 
the recovery of microflora and microfauna is going to affect any corals and live stock I would like to add into the tank after the Dino is gone?
should I hold and adding anything for a while?

Even during the worst parts of my months-long Ostreopsis bloom, I never had any issues with any of my fish, even the herbivores. So I wouldn't worry about adding new fish, and in fact having a higher bio-load will naturally increase nutrient levels and thus help prevent against dino blooms in the first place. However, if you are spending your time and effort dealing with the dinos maybe that isn't the best time to be selecting new fish and quarantining them or whatever your protocol is.

Corals are another story. Corals want stability, which is hard to maintain in a dino bloom as you are trying all sorts of different things to kill the dinos. Corals want >0 nutrient levels, which are hard to maintain when dinos are sucking up all the nutrients. Corals can also just physically get killed by strands of dinos attaching to them and directly killing the tissue.

For the microflora and microfauna that inhabit your tank, dinos also wipe them out in a different way. Dinos are very good at outcompeting other microalgaes at low nutrient levels, and since basically nothing eats dinos, their presence means nutrients are going to an organism that isn't going up the food chain. So pods basically have nothing to eat and their population will decline significantly.

So part of the big strategy of raising nutrient levels is to let those other microalgaes compete with dinos, re-establish their population and then eventually outcompete them. But this doesn't happen overnight, especially in a tank in the midst of a dino bloom. It can take many weeks depending on how severe the bloom was.

So there isn't any magical timeline that says when the dinos are gone, in X days the tank will be back to normal. You'll know when the tank is back to normal because you'll see more pods at night, and your nutrient levels will start to balance out and any surviving corals will start to look healthier. It will take some time as the microalgaes will have to start outcompeting the dinos, and then pods will start eating that microalgae, etc. You'll probably have to restock your clean-up crew to be back at the proper level for your algae growth (remember: algae growth is good!). It's a process. But when your tank is healthy and you are past the dino bloom, you'll see it in the health of the tank. Then try adding a few corals and see how they do.
 
What has worked for me is Hydrogen Peroxide dosing and no water changes.

The water changes caused the Dinos to bloom, so you're starving out the food source with no water changes. Then I dosed H2O2 to get rid of the remaining dinos.
 
Even during the worst parts of my months-long Ostreopsis bloom, I never had any issues with any of my fish, even the herbivores. So I wouldn't worry about adding new fish, and in fact having a higher bio-load will naturally increase nutrient levels and thus help prevent against dino blooms in the first place. However, if you are spending your time and effort dealing with the dinos maybe that isn't the best time to be selecting new fish and quarantining them or whatever your protocol is.

Corals are another story. Corals want stability, which is hard to maintain in a dino bloom as you are trying all sorts of different things to kill the dinos. Corals want >0 nutrient levels, which are hard to maintain when dinos are sucking up all the nutrients. Corals can also just physically get killed by strands of dinos attaching to them and directly killing the tissue.

For the microflora and microfauna that inhabit your tank, dinos also wipe them out in a different way. Dinos are very good at outcompeting other microalgaes at low nutrient levels, and since basically nothing eats dinos, their presence means nutrients are going to an organism that isn't going up the food chain. So pods basically have nothing to eat and their population will decline significantly.

So part of the big strategy of raising nutrient levels is to let those other microalgaes compete with dinos, re-establish their population and then eventually outcompete them. But this doesn't happen overnight, especially in a tank in the midst of a dino bloom. It can take many weeks depending on how severe the bloom was.

So there isn't any magical timeline that says when the dinos are gone, in X days the tank will be back to normal. You'll know when the tank is back to normal because you'll see more pods at night, and your nutrient levels will start to balance out and any surviving corals will start to look healthier. It will take some time as the microalgaes will have to start outcompeting the dinos, and then pods will start eating that microalgae, etc. You'll probably have to restock your clean-up crew to be back at the proper level for your algae growth (remember: algae growth is good!). It's a process. But when your tank is healthy and you are past the dino bloom, you'll see it in the health of the tank. Then try adding a few corals and see how they do.

Thank you for taking the time to explain!
Super detail as always and helpful!!:beer:
 
What has worked for me is Hydrogen Peroxide dosing and no water changes.

The water changes caused the Dinos to bloom, so you're starving out the food source with no water changes. Then I dosed H2O2 to get rid of the remaining dinos.

I'm going to avoid water change for next 1-2 months.
Only Rodi water that I have to change
 
I had dinos last spring when my nutrients dropped to zero. The way I took care of the problem was to first start to raise the nutrients and stop the wc's. I then hooked up my UV that I had in storage to a canister filter I wasn't using and set that up next to the tank on a timer. I had the empty ( no filter media ) canister pull the water directly from the tank go through the UV and empty into the filter sock in the sump that was replaced every day. I positioned the PH's so that the flow was directed towards the intake of the canister filter and every night before lights out I would spend a few minutes blasting dinos off of all the surfaces in the tank to get them into the water column. The canister/UV set up was on a timer to run through the night when the dinos are in the free swimming stage and in the water column. I did this for 3 weeks until there were no signs of dinos and continued for another week ( just to make sure) before breaking the set up down and putting it in storage. If I need it again I can set it up or take it down in minutes.
 
I had dinos last spring when my nutrients dropped to zero. The way I took care of the problem was to first start to raise the nutrients and stop the wc's. I then hooked up my UV that I had in storage to a canister filter I wasn't using and set that up next to the tank on a timer. I had the empty ( no filter media ) canister pull the water directly from the tank go through the UV and empty into the filter sock in the sump that was replaced every day. I positioned the PH's so that the flow was directed towards the intake of the canister filter and every night before lights out I would spend a few minutes blasting dinos off of all the surfaces in the tank to get them into the water column. The canister/UV set up was on a timer to run through the night when the dinos are in the free swimming stage and in the water column. I did this for 3 weeks until there were no signs of dinos and continued for another week ( just to make sure) before breaking the set up down and putting it in storage. If I need it again I can set it up or take it down in minutes.

I like the idea with the canstier filter and the uv.
How you run the electric cable wasn't that interampt with the seal of the filter?
 
Phosphates to at least > 0.1 ppm
Nitrates to 5-10 ppm

There are a variety of ways to dose each one. I use Seachem Phosphorus for dosing phosphate, and reagent grade sodium nitrate for nitrate. There are options for both that you can read about by searching around.

This is not going to be a problem where you do one thing and they go away. You're going to have to learn a lot of stuff, be disciplined about maintaining levels over the long term and then you'll slowly start to see progress.

You also really want to buy a microscope (or borrow one) and identify what kind of Dino you have, it will be very helpful in beating them.

what is the dosing mixture for the LOUDWOLF Sodium Nitrite?
 
what is the dosing mixture for the LOUDWOLF Sodium Nitrite?

Hopefully that is a typo and you have sodium nitrate, not sodium nitrite.

But anyways if you have sodium nitrate, use this calculator, select potassium nitrate and then multiply the answer by 0.84. If you want more info, google for "Calculating sodium nitrate dosage" and read the thread that comes up.

As a rough guideline, I add 5 grams into my ~400 gallon system to raise nitrate by ~2-3 ppm. But do whatever the calculator says for more accurate dosing.
 
Hopefully that is a typo and you have sodium nitrate, not sodium nitrite.

But anyways if you have sodium nitrate, use this calculator, select potassium nitrate and then multiply the answer by 0.84. If you want more info, google for "Calculating sodium nitrate dosage" and read the thread that comes up.

As a rough guideline, I add 5 grams into my ~400 gallon system to raise nitrate by ~2-3 ppm. But do whatever the calculator says for more accurate dosing.

wow, I'm glad you mention that, I received:
"LOUDWOLF SODIUM NITRITE NaNO2".

I guess I'll make a return
 
wow, I'm glad you mention that, I received:
"LOUDWOLF SODIUM NITRITE NaNO2".

I guess I'll make a return

Ahh.. well that is good you caught that before putting it in the tank!

I think their customer support is pretty good so hopefully they fix the problem very quickly.
 
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