CARBON usage, methods, advice.....

I also use the bulk reef supply lignite carbon .

I never heard of granulated activated carbon causing ph swings .I suppose in a very remote way it could raise it some by clearing the water and thereby increasing the light and photosynthesis,but I don't think using it will have much of an effect on ph.

trd47 ,What kind of carbon are you reading that from?Perhaps it's a carbon source for dosing not filitering?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13005811#post13005811 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tmz
I also use the bulk reef supply lignite carbon .

I never heard of granulated activated carbon causing ph swings .I suppose in a very remote way it could raise it some by clearing the water and thereby increasing the light and photosynthesis,but I don't think using it will have much of an effect on ph.

trd47 ,What kind of carbon are you reading that from?Perhaps it's a carbon source for dosing not filitering?

im using pro-carb. on the label it says its for clearing water, remove harmful toxin etc. This one says it keeps pH stable but other brands I looked at mentioned the ph dropping or increasing can't remember which ones though.

as for the bulk reef carbon, are you using pellets or granules?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13004503#post13004503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by trd47
ok im interested in running carbon in my tank, but read on the label that it may cause ph swings? Do you just completely ignore this?

BTW what brand is everyone using?

this is a new one on me, ive never heard it before, perhaps boomer, billybeau or jdieck will comment, personally im suprised about this and would not think it could cause a ph swing
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12937422#post12937422 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
how do you guys rinse carbon?

I just run the media bag in tap water until it runs clear. :)

What about.. is carbon necessary? I know there are a lot of benefits but it's not detrimental to not use it in a fully stocked reef is it? Assuming of course you have a lot of other means of filtration, skimmer, etc.


It may make the water clearer, may bind some organics (toxins, etc) that are not skimmed and may help export excess metals that are bound to organics.

I use carbon 24/7.

I agree totally. This is my method as well
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12955872#post12955872 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SCIFI_3D_zoo
For you guys that are rinsing it in tap water do you just let it dry for 24 hours or RO/DI rinse it to remove any tap water residue? I'm like super-paranoid about rinsing/cleaning stuff with tap water. When I clean my skimmer cup I dry it out real good b/c I try to think about everything as I'm doing it.. and it seems I wouldn't want any tap water getting into my system. Even if it is a TINY amount.. it could add up over the course of months to something problematic?

I literally rinse it under the tap and let it drip then put the bag directly into the sump. this has always worked for me w/o any problems.
 
I would like some opinions on running carbon in a phosban reactor. Would it be better to run the reactor less-than-full and allow the carbon to fluidize? Or are you allowing the water to flow between the carbon pellets/granules by fluidizing it? Would it be better to pack the reactor full and tight, and not let the carbon move (in an effort to force water through it)?
 
I have two of them, and I run mine maybe 1/3 full so that the carbon is fully fluidized. Having two allows me to change only one at a time. Same goes for my GFO media reactor.
 
Hadn't thought about full or half full. Question raises an interesting point. I use two reactors,one is a dyi and one is a two little fishes. I have another for gfo,part time. My carbon reactors are full. Not sure there is any consensus on rapid flow vs absorbtion techniques. Seems like a full reactor and a passive bag in the sump covers both.
 
Bottom line is that it all works I suppose. Randy seems to think that more flow is better, mine flows pretty fast. It's kind of like the skimmer; you can feed it slow and absorb more stuff each pass, or you can feed it fast and absorb just as much (and maybe more) over time. Depends on the skimmer. I feed the reactors probably 300-400 gph, and my skimmer more like 500 on a 180 system with total volume of 250 gals. Some claim that GFO will pulverize if the flow is too high, but I haven't seen it. I have seen GFO turn into a solid clump and small channels form through it with a slow flow.
 
I thought... in a reactor... whatever the flow rate ends up being you are supposed to use the ball valve to slightly bubble the surface just like you do Phosban??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13059736#post13059736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LobsterOfJustice
I would like some opinions on running carbon in a phosban reactor. Would it be better to run the reactor less-than-full and allow the carbon to fluidize? Or are you allowing the water to flow between the carbon pellets/granules by fluidizing it? Would it be better to pack the reactor full and tight, and not let the carbon move (in an effort to force water through it)?

I have the two phosban reactors also. I fill the carbon up in the reactor from filter to filter and then use a maxijet1200 to force the water through the reactor. This prevents the carbon from bouncing around and being pulverized to bits so it can end up in your tank
The phosban on the other hand needs an area to slightly heave so as to be fully effective--IMO
 
It will fluidize and bounce around some. But the screens may stopvery much of it from leaving the reactor. Erhaps a smaller powerhead can be used in this situation.It will be exposed to more water more rapidly. This method may or may not be better than a slower flow.Although it makes sense when you think that if the water passes through quickly less material willl be absorbed on each pass but there will be more passes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13064572#post13064572 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SCIFI_3D_zoo
For those of us that want to fill it just 1/2 way it should do what?

One cup on a 90g is probably plenty. I use 3 cups on my system that has 340g of total water volume (estimated). If you want to run it for a few days, you'll notice improved water quality.

You could to that once a month as a way to polish the water.

I just polish my water weekly. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13065258#post13065258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Boomer
A Carbon / GAC thread and I did not say one word :) How did that happen :lol:

Some EXTRA heavy reading boys and girls.

Granular Activated Carbon Part 1
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/pdf/AdvancedAquarist-2008-01.pdf


Granular Activated Carbon Part 2
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/pdf/AdvancedAquarist-2008-02.pdf


Activated Carbon Threads Here


GAC Threads Here

I couldn't believe that you hadn't posted either:D

there is another thread on the use of carbon going on too

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1441631

thanks for the reading Boomer
 
Marc

You spend way to much of your time "polishing" things. And I don't mean just floors either :D

I Cup / 50 gals is now becoming pretty much std. Ken's test show more than that may be needed. The old std was on the order of 1 tbls / gal. ( 3 cups /50 gal) to 1 tbls / 5 gal. ( ~ 0.5 cups / 50 gal. ) How much you use is really a choice, as all GAC is NOT the same. More does not hurt anything. If you pay close attention to your pH you will see it drops quicker than with new GAC. That drop depends on the load and the type and amount of GAC. Many waste GAC by change it out to fast. A month is a good time but one should take it out ounce a week, rinse it at the same time you kinda crush it with your hands as you tumble the bag and put it back in. GAC is not shot in one week. A simple MB test will prove that. It is just less effective.
 
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