Chinese LED Lights

Coral Head said:
I

I would try to adjust the intensities of each channel. Run your blues at a higher %age than the whites. This would accomplish your desire to have the color more on the blue side w/out swapping out leds.
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thanks,
I just tried it and I have to run the blue channel at 100% and my white channel at 7 to 10% to get the color I like, if I run it this way I'll lose a lot of par. I'm going to swap out even more whites to royal blues. I guess I just like my tank on the blue side.
Vic
 
vic8361 said:
thanks,
I just tried it and I have to run the blue channel at 100% and my white channel at 7 to 10% to get the color I like, if I run it this way I'll lose a lot of par. I'm going to swap out even more whites to royal blues. I guess I just like my tank on the blue side.
Vic
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Nothing wrong with liking the blue . . . . just be sure your corals are happy with it too. They will let you know.
 
Coral Head said:
Nothing wrong with liking the blue . . . . just be sure your corals are happy with it too. They will let you know.
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Thanks,
BTW do you live close to Port Saint Lucie? Thats where I live now and would love to trade and get to know some locals.
Just starting up my 90 about a month now.
Vic
 
Coral Head said:
Pros and/or Cons to my thoughts re: lighting.

I have reefbreeder LEDs over my 90 gallon. Obviously too much light at 100% blue/100%white. I have read almost every entry posted over the last 90 days. The consensus seems to recommend percentages less than 100% on both channels.

My ? is this: During the six hour major photo period, what if I set the blue channel at 100% and, using a PAR meter, increase the white channel until I reach my desired PAR levels? It seems I would be maximizing the blue to white ratio.

All comments are welcome.
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That would probably work, but you'd be stuck with water ever "color" was the end result.
I have two D-120's (same layout as monkiboy's) over my 90g hanging 12.5" off the water. My blues are at 80% & whites are 45%. Anymore and my acros, milli's, & monti's start bleaching up high in the rockwork AND lps down low get mad too. I know all tanks/aquascapes/canopies/open-top are different, so there's no silver bullet to this problem.
I've been slowly playing with the blue/white percentages for several months and this one seems to work best for my tank's inhabitants & looks good to the eye! I was running it at blue 65% & white 60% and my corals were doing great, but my tank was to "white" for my likings. It's just something you have to tweak on!
 
8 months of growth using $120 D120. Apologize for the crappy cell phone pix.
Combined_zps6e1f9d68.jpg
 
mknightryder said:
That would probably work, but you'd be stuck with water ever "color" was the end result.
I have two D-120's (same layout as monkiboy's) over my 90g hanging 12.5" off the water. My blues are at 80% & whites are 45%. Anymore and my acros, milli's, & monti's start bleaching up high in the rockwork AND lps down low get mad too. I know all tanks/aquascapes/canopies/open-top are different, so there's no silver bullet to this problem.
I've been slowly playing with the blue/white percentages for several months and this one seems to work best for my tank's inhabitants & looks good to the eye! I was running it at blue 65% & white 60% and my corals were doing great, but my tank was to "white" for my likings. It's just something you have to tweak on!
Click to expand...

Thank you for your comments. They are very helpful. Are you using 90 degree or 120 lenses?
 
thinking about changing over to LED's on my 280. It's 30 by 30 by 72. Is it possible to light it with LED's without breaking the bank. Currently running two 400MH and 4 VHO's. I don't need max par at the sandbed, fine with zoas and low light corals down there..... but would really like to get away from my two 400 MH and chiller..... suggestions, and what options do I need. lighting storms are cool, but I have a budget...
 
I bought 2 full spectrum led fixtures from ebay I believe they were d120s but I have to run them at 50% blue and 25% white/full spectrum cause my corals started bleaching. I borrowed a PAR meter from my LFS and at 75% blue and 50% white/full spectrum I was getting 430 PAR on the sand bed 0.o I have them about 6 inches off the water and a 24 inch tall tank. 6 inches from the surface I was reading consistently 700. So theyre definitely powerful. I read somewhere that the PAR of led was significantly different form that of t5 or MH. Anyone know if its a less is more or a more is less kinda deal? Like is a PAR reading of 700 from MH more powerful than 700 of led?
 
Question: I just bought two d120 fixtures and they have vertical power cords. I need to get 90 degree cords so I can close my canopy. I cannot remount the lights any other way. Are those power cords universal or do they have specific volts and amp specs? I believe that with the 90 degree cords they will fit and my canopy should close.
 
ok, I had a chance to go back and did a little more reading and looked up some prices. Much better than what I looked at a couple years back..... So it looks like I can actually make the switch without breaking the bank. But still confused on which unit and what color combination. I read one unit has one power cord(gotta like that) Also think I would prefer the cord comming out of the side. I am thinking 3 d120's. I like this idea as I have a center brace and this would allow me to turn the middle unit up a little more to compensate for the brace. With them placed in the canopy about 10" over the water, what lens do you recommend and can you please give me the layout you would recommend. And who has provide good customer support. Thanks again.
 
Glazner said:
ok, I had a chance to go back and did a little more reading and looked up some prices. Much better than what I looked at a couple years back..... So it looks like I can actually make the switch without breaking the bank. But still confused on which unit and what color combination. I read one unit has one power cord(gotta like that) Also think I would prefer the cord comming out of the side. I am thinking 3 d120's. I like this idea as I have a center brace and this would allow me to turn the middle unit up a little more to compensate for the brace. With them placed in the canopy about 10" over the water, what lens do you recommend and can you please give me the layout you would recommend. And who has provide good customer support. Thanks again.
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The d120s have angled cords, and 90° optics is probably a safe bet. The two I have are sideways over a 48 in tank with good coverage.
 
QPWithCheeseQP said:
I bought 2 full spectrum led fixtures from ebay I believe they were d120s but I have to run them at 50% blue and 25% white/full spectrum cause my corals started bleaching. I borrowed a PAR meter from my LFS and at 75% blue and 50% white/full spectrum I was getting 430 PAR on the sand bed 0.o I have them about 6 inches off the water and a 24 inch tall tank. 6 inches from the surface I was reading consistently 700. So theyre definitely powerful. I read somewhere that the PAR of led was significantly different form that of t5 or MH. Anyone know if its a less is more or a more is less kinda deal? Like is a PAR reading of 700 from MH more powerful than 700 of led?
Click to expand...

PAR is PAR regardless of the source. I have read that a PAR meter may indicate 10% less than actual PAR on LEDs.

Just power them down until you get the desired levels.
 
ridetheducati, exactly what I asked. Water chemistry is important, but calcium mag etc.., is not as important as lighting. Those contribute to growth more which is what I was asking about. I have had many SPS mini colonies be successful for many years without ever dosing nor testing cal or mag (granted my growth is not as fast as yours). And I have seen many tanks be successful with sps and lps without ever dosing or testing for cal, mag as well. The reason I asked about your growth is because I currently have MH's and am switching to a full spectrum LED fixture and was wondering if my growth was going to jump this much? Since you have a cal reactor my growth probably won't be as quick as yours.
So I was asking if that growth was with just your LED's for food, or with supplements? But I answered my question.
 
Coral Head said:
PAR is PAR regardless of the source. I have read that a PAR meter may indicate 10% less than actual PAR on LEDs.

Just power them down until you get the desired levels.
Click to expand...

I think I need to raise them up more to get a more even light spread, cause the sides of the tank were like 100. 10% less is kinda scary haha these leds are stupid strong. Do you think that more blue and less white/full spectrum? Maybe run the blues at 65% and the whites at 15% or 20% I want the coral as happy looking as possible even if I have to sacrafice growth rate.
 
QPWithCheeseQP said:
I think I need to raise them up more to get a more even light spread, cause the sides of the tank were like 100. 10% less is kinda scary haha these leds are stupid strong. Do you think that more blue and less white/full spectrum? Maybe run the blues at 65% and the whites at 15% or 20% I want the coral as happy looking as possible even if I have to sacrafice growth rate.
Click to expand...

Every tank is different. I am running my 6 hr photoperiod at 75% blue/40% white/full spectrum.
 
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