Choati Leopard Wrasse - Status

snorvich

Team RC member
Team RC
Well, mine is now 5 months old and seemingly thriving. However, I won't really feel I have made it until it is still alive after a year. I feed mine primarily PE mysis, but it is in a tank of sufficient size (over 200 g) with a 40 gallon refugium so that it can hunt its natural food. It is in a tank with three other leopard wrasses, all of whom are at least six months old.

Any other success stories?
 
Nice job Steve! Hopefully it'll last you years.
I've never been able to keep them past a month, I've tried about 7 of them.
Keep us updated...
 
Steve,

My harem is a bit over 13 months old now, one male and three females in a super well established 120-gallon mixed reef aquarium in my office. The male has been courting the females for the last month or so, and at about 5:00 PM each day his display and routine with the females is incredible. I am very confident they either have already spawned or will spawn very soon.
RedLeopardWrasse.jpg

Regards,
 
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Yes, I would have purchased that pair since I have a lot of confidence in DFS DD. However, I would have put them in my other, larger tank rather than attempt to add them with my existing female. I am hopeful the ones from Kevin will thrive in their new owners tank. They are a gorgeous animal, but I must confess I have a weakness for wrasses, especially leopards.
 
Thank you for your kind words Steve, that pair last week was one of the healthiest I have ever had the pleasure of caring for. Don't worry there will be more coming up very soon, all of which are rock sold, and super healthy ;).

Although there are numerous reasons why these spectacular fish are more challenging than most other Labroids, more often than not their quick demise is a direct result of mishandling somewhere along the chain of custody.

On a brighter note, I have handled plenty of good batches of Macropharyngodon choati , and success is quite feasible if one starts with a healthy fish and provides the proper environment and nutrition for it to thrive.

Regards,
 
Kevin, just curious on how to tell the differences between the male and female. Thanks for any info.

The main difference is in coloration and physical size (males are much larger than females). Males develop pale blue or lime green stripes on their face in between the orange, from the mouth to the operculum. This coloration will also be visible between the eyes and on top of the head, as well as outlining the dark spot on the operculum. Their orange random spotted pattern will sometimes form larger spots that can join together resembling horizontal stripes down the length of the body, and lastly, the soft dorsal and anal fins will take on a yellow or blue/green hue, which alternates with the orange horizontal stripes.

I will try and post some additional images of the male soon if I can dig them up.

Cheers,
 
Thanks for the detailed description, Kevin. I've been trying with very little success with various leopards, except choatis, the past 2 years. No a single specimen has lived past 6 months so far. The ones that have lived longer than one month seemingly are eating well then all of a sudden just disappears. Do you think having a bristleworm infestation would be a contributing cause since they sleep in the sand?

Sorry for the hijack, Steve :)
 
Not a problem. All information on these wonderful fish is always welcome and certainly anything which makes keeping them long term more likely is terrific.
 
Congrats Steve, that is very good to hear that she is still doing well.
I cant wait to get another one or 2. Maybe I will be one of the lucky ones to grab a couple from Kevin.
 
Fish of the genus Macropharyngodon are more sensitive to a lot of activity or commotion, and normally do not fare well long term and are not suited for aquaria with numerous established and territorial inhabitants. The ideal way to maintain these fishes properly is to plan for their introduction, and be patient to acquire healthy fish to start with.

Choat’s Leopard Wrasse should ideally be the dominant species in the display, or at least be introduced and established prior to other more active, territorial or aggressive inhabitants, or even similar shaped fishes. That is one of the most critical factors in determining their success in home aquaria that is overlooked in my opinion; they need to rule the tank.

A well established aquarium at least four feet in length with plenty of hiding places and a 2-4” layer of fine gravel or sand, with an abundance of amphipods and copepods as a natural food source will satisfy their hunting instinct and taste for small crustaceans.

Offering small quantities of enriched frozen foods 6-8 times per day will keep them fat and happy. They seem to enjoy moderate current, and appear to adapt well in moderately lit reef aquaria. Our harem of fish are maintained in a 120 gallon mixed reef aquarium with 2 MP40’s on alternating long pulse mode, and an 8 bulb T5 lighting system suspended 4” above the water surface.

Below is a picture of the male:
Male-Choati-Leopard-Wrasse.jpg

Cheers,
 
I would feed those fish more. All of the leopards that I have ever kept had fat, full bellies all of the day - they caught a lot of their own food. Perhaps the choati are different than the melagris, potters, negrosens, etc. but the skunken in bellies would concern me. I have had most, except choati, so forgive me if I am off base.
 
Well, mine does hunt, and also eats mysis (PE) and looks pretty much like Kevin's. My other leopards tend to be "pudgy", however.
 
i have two coming tomorrow and again will attempt the nearly impossiable ,just to keep them alive . i am giving them a different tank that has three bipartius females in it ,do you thing they will subject the choati's to to mucg stress ? they would be nearly impossiable to remove and are very timid ,i just dont want to mess them up either .thanks for the direction Steve

Dave
 
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