Ok i started with 150-175 clowfish larvae now im down to 30. Pretty much they all survived the night. I added 4 to 5 drops of rg complete and a ton died. Is the rg complete the problem?should i switch to straight up nannochloropsis? Its really getting annoying that i cant keep them alive for the first 2 days. Any help is advise. Could it be something else?
Clowfish larvae dead again.
- Thread starter Pearfish
- Start date
NewOne81
Member
Ok ill take a pic later. My one friend said rg complete wasn't the problem either. Heres my process. I collect the eggs using vossen aquatics larval trap (search on YouTube) i then stick them in the larva tank that has fsw. I had the heater set to 82 degrees. I have one air Stone under the heater. (idk how much air to put on). After transfer i go to bed. I wake uo turn on my 15w incandescent clamp on light Fixture and feed 3 quarts of rots. To my judgement they dont have to swim a body length to get them. They survive most of morning and by noon most are dead only 45 survivors.
NewOne81
Member
Something that immediately jumps out at me is the incandescent light. You dont really need much light for the first 2-3 days. sounds like it could be too much, especially if you're not lessening the intensity with paper or other. A big clue to this is if you see the larvae almost face down on the bottom of the tank. Thats them trying to get away from the brightness. Airstone under the heater is good, ideal if you use one of those airstone bars that can run the length of your heater. bubbling shouldnt be very intense. just enough to deter the larvae from going near the heater. If you're getting a foam or collection of bubbles built up on the water surface,its too much.
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
are the clowns staying at the bottom of the tank? if so thats the good indicator that there is to much light.
I use the standard florecent bulb that comes with the older 10 gal tanks and still have to place 5 sheets of paper inbetween the light and the tank or it's to bright
I use the standard florecent bulb that comes with the older 10 gal tanks and still have to place 5 sheets of paper inbetween the light and the tank or it's to bright
Are you using newly made water, or water from the tank the larvae came from? A quick die off usually has something to do with parameters such as temp, water conditions, aeration, etc. The larvae should live for 4-5 days without food, so I suspect it's not the RG or your rotifer density. Most of the times I have had a large quick die-off I could trace it to my own blunders.....
D-Nak
Active member
+1. Most of the fry are probably going into shock from the abrupt change.
I usually take water from the parent's tank and drip it though a coffee filter into the larval tank. It's done on hatch night.
