Clowning_Around's Tank Journal thread.

I started painting my plumbing tonight. Its funny, it looks like some odd abstract art exhibit. Funnier thing is I guess it is by virtue of posting it here...
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And yea I know I should pribably have been cutting my grass before the painting lol, it can wait til' the weekend [emoji12]

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So question for you are bonding all the pipes before you paint them?
Yes, I did, except for the final bulkhead connection which is already primed and taped off. I also didn't want the ends down in my sump painted - in case I want to scrub buildup and salt creep later/ not worry about paint chips or scratchs. So I bagged and taped those portions as well.The other exception is my top screw on caps I kept them separate since they are removable, I taped the male and female threads for the portion that engages. Below is a picture of the caps (with my support brackets) being painted separately.
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By the way, I'm using metal electrical conduithangers for my pipe supports (pictured above). These work great, they are sturdy, inexpensive, and easy to install+adjust, plus i really like that they are low profile. I just had to plan my pipes offset location from the back of my tank/ stand so to ensure the pipe sections landed in the slot once mounted to my stand. I used these in my first overflow sand return line as well, however I picked this set up from HD instead of Lowe's, I like them better. The one side is threaded so there's no loose nut to loose, just simply thread the bolt in. Which I find highly useful in these tight quarters. I also used larger ones inside my stand tomount my Aqua Ultraviolet Advatage UV sterlizer, it had a tapered body and no mounting hardware provided which was my biggest complaint but I digress, the clamps worked great one the tapered body amd offer easy removal.

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So back too the question of bonding before I painted and my comment on select areas being taped off. Here's a pic of one of the finished sections with the tape removed ready to be installed:
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Very clean. The valves didn't stick because of the paint?
Thanks. I'll try and get a close up shot of one spot to clarify before I complete the install, this weekend didnt allow for much progress. Basically because of how its constructed the two pieces of pvc don't connect / are separated enough such that the paint doesn't bridge the gap thereby not sticking when the handle turns. The union is basically the same, just had to be careful to not go heavy handed so no runs our excess built up at the joints, a light dusting was all that was needed anyway.

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I would think with spray paint, it's such a thin coat that even if you did paint the handle shut/open, it wouldn't take much effort to break the paint seal.

FWIW, if those are CEPEX valves(they look to be) they can be taken completely apart and painted without the fear of the paint mucking up the works.

Still in awe of your awesome DIY skills. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks. I'll try and get a close up shot of one spot to clarify before I complete the install, this weekend didnt allow for much progress. Basically because of how its constructed the two pieces of pvc don't connect / are separated enough such that the paint doesn't bridge the gap thereby not sticking when the handle turns. The union is basically the same, just had to be careful to not go heavy handed so no runs our excess built up at the joints, a light dusting was all that was needed anyway.

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Here's the close up photo I mentioned earlier. I was hoping to be able to get a better image of the joint but it just keeps up ending in the shadow. I also included two closeups of the union as it was painted in place as one and then another pic with it opened for the pic.
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I would think with spray paint, it's such a thin coat that even if you did paint the handle shut/open, it wouldn't take much effort to break the paint seal.

FWIW, if those are CEPEX valves(they look to be) they can be taken completely apart and painted without the fear of the paint mucking up the works.

Still in awe of your awesome DIY skills. [emoji106]
Yes it's the type that could be taken apart but no need with use of the spray paint.

And thanks again for the compliment on the DIY skills.

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What paint did you use to paint the pvc?
It looks very nice.
Thanks. For the interior I used Krylon fusion for plastics (online avail mainly). For the external plumbing i used rustoleum's painters 2X (HD carries). The later product covering much better, a single coat was enough but I applied a second with some touchup. The Fusion took many coats, you habe to be careful to avoid rins b/c it gors pn watery looking. It probably took 4 coats. The sheen is in my opinion what makes it look good for this application I used a flat finish. Satin wpuld be the highest I would use bit prefer the flat. If you want the shinny or plastic look you can go with rhe glosses but remeber it doesnt hide imperfections aswell instead it will more likely raise attention to them.

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I had totally forgot to update my new return lol. Gicen the tight quarters under the stand I opted to place the check valve on the vertical behind the tank. Its not what I w poo uld have wanted ideally but I think it turned out ok for being external
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Yes, specifically rhe ones inside my overflow box in this case. Shown in first pic of post 34 of this thread.

Here ya go:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25179323

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did you sand the pvc before painting?
any reason you did not use the HD paint on internal?
I know krylon fusion is tried and true for internal.
I once used Valspar (the brand HD sold many years ago) because I cannot find Krylon locally. Can says won't chip, but everything chipped away eventually on a fitting in saltwater. Not sure if its because I did not sand down the pvc, or the paint just can't handle saltwater.
 
I had krylon and recalled it being tested by many, so I elected to use it. I have had the 2X product in water as well but not for any long term exposure (beyond 2 mos.). As for sanding the pipe, I did not with these paint products as both are made to bond with plastic. If you use something other test on scrap pipe as well as fitting, given they have different surface characteristics and some paints will just want to run and/or not cover well.

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So I was thinking to paint my 45's 90's T's ect a different color from the pipe. What's the best way to block off the inside of the fittings? Also I assume I wouldn't want the part of the pipe that goes into the fitting to be painted right? Any idea of how to figure that out?

Thanks
 
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