d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build

[ClownsRCoo]

d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build

It doesn't look that far from your tank position. I wana say the max you can run the aquabus cable is 200'


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[d2mini]

It doesn't look that far from your tank position. I wana say the max you can run the aquabus cable is 200'


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The GHL Profilux uses this kind of cable.
I have this 2m extension, but I thought I heard that after this length the signal starts to degrade. Would have to do more research on that.

 

[ClownsRCoo]

Oh ok


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[drummerboyevil]

I didn't think there was a max wiring length on the float switches. I'm assuming it just uses a breakout style wiring to the switch itself and not that mini din cable, right?


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[dkeller_nc]

Dennis - I run Apex, so I don't have direct experience with the Profilux. But I am an engineer, and have facility with control systems.

There are several ways to do what you want. The first is the most straightforward, though probably also the most expensive. You can get an Expansion Box which will connect to your controller with the GHL Profilux Aquatic Bus. Since these bus connections are powered, you have a limit of 100 meters, which should be easily enough to do your ATO/water change containers. You then simply add a level control card to the expansion box, and you're set.

The more "DIY" method would be to power a set of relays with a cheap 24V power supply. You simply wire the power supply +24V to one conductor of your cable, run that to a remote mechanical level switch, then wire the return conductor to the + coil of a relay. The other side of the coil goes back to the ground connector on your 24V power supply. You then wire the level contacts of your Profilux controller to the relay contacts. When the mechanical float switch "makes", it energizes the relay. Your controller senses this, and you program in any warning that you like.

 

[d2mini]

Dennis - I run Apex, so I don't have direct experience with the Profilux. But I am an engineer, and have facility with control systems.

There are several ways to do what you want. The first is the most straightforward, though probably also the most expensive. You can get an Expansion Box which will connect to your controller with the GHL Profilux Aquatic Bus. Since these bus connections are powered, you have a limit of 100 meters, which should be easily enough to do your ATO/water change containers. You then simply add a level control card to the expansion box, and you're set.

The more "DIY" method would be to power a set of relays with a cheap 24V power supply. You simply wire the power supply +24V to one conductor of your cable, run that to a remote mechanical level switch, then wire the return conductor to the + coil of a relay. The other side of the coil goes back to the ground connector on your 24V power supply. You then wire the level contacts of your Profilux controller to the relay contacts. When the mechanical float switch "makes", it energizes the relay. Your controller senses this, and you program in any warning that you like.

Thanks! The expansion box has level control built in so I would just need the level sensor. But yeah... we're talking $350 for the thing to tell me the tank is empty.

The DIY... you might as well have been speaking Japanese. :lol:

 

[timfederwitz]

Thanks! The expansion box has level control built in so I would just need the level sensor. But yeah... we're talking $350 for the thing to tell me the tank is empty.

Does the expansion box offer any additional uses or value? I ask because I am looking to do something even more automated (if possible) using an Apex and I believe I would need something similar for my Apex. I didn't look at the price, but everything Apex seems to be expensive. LOL

 

[d2mini]

Does the expansion box offer any additional uses or value? I ask because I am looking to do something even more automated (if possible) using an Apex and I believe I would need something similar for my Apex. I didn't look at the price, but everything Apex seems to be expensive. LOL

It expands on everything the Profilux does, offering duplicate ports if you run out of the ones on the Profilux itself. And like in my case, it would offer me a plug and play way to have those ports close to the storage tanks.
I don't what the equivalent would be for Apex.

 

[Jreed983]

One thing you might be able to do would be to use an ato system. You could mount the ato just as normal so that it would activate when the water level got to a low point but instead of then activating a pump, it could be wired to a light or some other kind of indicator that you would see by the tank or somewhere in the house.

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[foxt]

I built a lower water alarm for the water storage tank using a battery powered internet-of-things device. My case, I used an esp8266 running off a 9v battery, it has been running flawlessly for a year. Simple setup, but it doesn't integrate with your controller. Instead, you can have it text your phone when the water level gets low. It is wireless, so you would need a wifi signal at the tank. If you are interested, i can post more info, or a link to an example ... It is a little bit of a project, but it is a fun way to get started with IoT ....

 

[d2mini]

I built a lower water alarm for the water storage tank using a battery powered internet-of-things device. My case, I used an esp8266 running off a 9v battery, it has been running flawlessly for a year. Simple setup, but it doesn't integrate with your controller. Instead, you can have it text your phone when the water level gets low. It is wireless, so you would need a wifi signal at the tank. If you are interested, i can post more info, or a link to an example ... It is a little bit of a project, but it is a fun way to get started with IoT ....

Sounds over my head (i had to google IoT) but post a link anyway.
I tend to have a mental block when it comes to electronics/wiring.

 

[dkeller_nc]

If you want to do the relay thing, I can source the components and give you a wiring diagram. All that said, by the time you order the cable, relays, level sensors and power supply you're probably out $150.

Might be simpler to set a reminder in your phone to go check the level of the tanks every Monday night.

 

[d2mini]

Might be simpler to set a reminder in your phone to go check the level of the tanks every Monday night.

LOL, true. :lolspin:

 

[d2mini]

UPDATE 4-19-16

Been working on getting equipment and wiring mounted/organized.
I'm not a fan of those electrical raceways.
They do a nice job hiding the wires, but then you have these big bulky rectangle things taking up space and creating their own kind of eyesore.
I also didn't want to drill a bunch of holes in the Elos stand.
So instead I created a raised panel with the equipment mounted to the front and the wiring hidden behind.

First I created two main supports. Just some pine coated with Kilz paint.
Two recessed holes in each support, so four total holes in the stand.

Then I used some finished plywood for the main panel.
I laid everything out and drilled the appropriate sized holes.
Then a couple coats of Kilz and then several coats of gloss white spray paint.
This was then mounted to the supports.

Now I'm in the process of getting everything mounted to the panel.
I left a space between the MP40 controller and Vectra Controller for an additional MP40 in the future.
Still need to decide where I'm going to mount controller powerbars and regular power strips and then tidy up the wiring.
I'm also working on a shelf for the controller and doser.
And I had to add a little mood lighting.

The sump is in progress as I type this.
So hopefully I'll have most of this stuff done before I need to begin plumbing.

 

[dtum]

Nice work. Now how the heck do you access the wires behind the board? Let's say you need to unplug something or replace the wire? Is it just a mess behind?

 

[d2mini]

Nice work. Now how the heck do you access the wires behind the board? Let's say you need to unplug something or replace the wire? Is it just a mess behind?

It's not too bad behind. The wires can be unplugged and then pulled through.
There is also space/access from above and below the board.

 

[SPotter]

looks awesome Dennis!!!! Biggest mistake I made on my build was not having something to hide the wires. Its almost two years now and I keep saying that I will organize and clean them up!

 

[d2mini]

looks awesome Dennis!!!! Biggest mistake I made on my build was not having something to hide the wires. Its almost two years now and I keep saying that I will organize and clean them up!

Thanks, Steve!
My old cube was a mess and it's definitely harder to do once the sump is in place.
And my last build I didn't worry about as much since I had the fish room and could spread out.
This time I needed to be more proactive about it.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Dennis, if there is any concern on the wires or outlets behind perhaps a plastic piano hinge on the rear might be a handy option before the sump goes in.

 

[tommyboynj]

Dennis, if there is any concern on the wires or outlets behind perhaps a plastic piano hinge on the rear might be a handy option before the sump goes in.

That's a good idea. The other thing you might want to consider is putting some kind of splash guard over it also. Keep the water away from all that stuff.

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