d2mini
Premium Member
Yes, correct. No other choice but to use ESL. Unfortunately.
d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build
- Thread starter d2mini
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Yes, correct. No other choice but to use ESL. Unfortunately.
liverock
RC Sponsor
Wow!
Wow!
The blenny pic is awesome.....good work bro!
what a shot....and the candelabra is happy to...
amazing for a two week old tank....makes me wonder why folks go thorough the whole dead/live rock issue...and cycling for weeks and weeks..with imported rock and sand from a bag......when it is so easy to do...and no diatoms........ lol ...... make your tank like Dennis's in two weeks!
http://tbsaltwater.com/thepackage/index.html
sea ya
Richard TBS :bounce3:
Wow!
The blenny pic is awesome.....good work bro!
what a shot....and the candelabra is happy to...
amazing for a two week old tank....makes me wonder why folks go thorough the whole dead/live rock issue...and cycling for weeks and weeks..with imported rock and sand from a bag......when it is so easy to do...and no diatoms........ lol ...... make your tank like Dennis's in two weeks!
http://tbsaltwater.com/thepackage/index.html
sea ya
Richard TBS :bounce3:
damienpbuckley
New member
Impressive. Do you know of anyone in the trade in Australia doing anything similar? Chances of getting something like this into Australia are pretty much zero I imagine.
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d2mini
Premium Member
Thanks!
I wouldn't say "no" diatoms.
I always get a bit. Have some right now. I compare The Package to doing a tank transfer. Things get stirred up a little, there's probably going to be a slight bit of die-off, so expect some minor and quick imbalances that mimic certain stages of the normal cycle.For instance, this time my p04 was off the charts, outside of hobby test kits that go as high has .6 ppm. Now it's down to .18 or less.
Last time I had nitrates start around 50 ppm. This time they never went above 10 ppm.
I almost always get some diatoms.
I've had bacteria blooms before.
But all this stuff goes away QUICK.
And even though you may have it, the tank can support fish and coral from the get-go. No need to wait for the whole denitrification process to start. It's there right out of the box. Literally. It's not a "mature tank", but you are months ahead of the game.
Some folks want to spend weeks creating the perfect rock structure out of the tank. I couldn't care less. Will all be covered in coral some day anyway.
TBS... every time!
BTW... been spotting what looks like small red mithrax crabs.
Haven't seen those in a while!
All i ever see is some fin sticking out from behind the rock.
Even when I put food in there he won't move. He waits till later to eat it, when no one is around.
liverock
RC Sponsor
We used to ship to your country pre 9-11......and all over the world, South Africa....Iceland...Germany....Netherlands....pretty much everywhere....but now..
things are different, we still have the permits to do it....but has become so costly and time consuming to obtain all the necessary paperwork...it became to much of a pain to do so, unfortunately.
Richard TBS
www.tbsaltwater.com
Reefer525XL
Member
Wondering why you dislike it so much? I've never used it so don't have any first hand experience with ESL. Also at what intensity are you running the lights and what distance off the surface?
damienpbuckley
New member
Yeah. A lot of things changed. The biggest issue here was the Government excluding the islands and most of the mainland from the immigration zone over the 'boat people' hysterics.
We now have no imported Coral nor I think invertebrates. If you've been following Reef Builders store tour here you'll be seeing the prices for the likes of blood red shrimp etc can get up to $180"¦
Clams are another example where we only get a very limited local selection now whereas we used to be able to get the fully variety from rookeries on Easter island etc. Bit of a bummer really.
Looks like you have a great product/service though. Nicely put together.
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d2mini
Premium Member
If you want to make any changes to your lighting you have to connect to their servers. I would rather just connect to the light itself without the "middle man" and having to a) hope my reeflink is working, and b) hope their servers are up.
I run the AB+ program at 85% and they are around 17" off the water.
Heuristic
New member
Dang... only took 2 posts for someone to notice the wonders of photoshop.
Well, now that we know you're using photoshop, how do we know that you don't actually just have a bowl tank with a gold fish in it and you photoshopped :uhoh3::uhoh3::uhoh3:
I'd say another reason for not liking the ESL requirement is that it's another controller. If you already have a controller for the rest of the tank equipment the inability to integrate the lights with it and run the entire system with one controller would be a pain to me.
d2mini
Premium Member
I don't care about that at all. I have it both ways since I have the GHL Mitras over my nano. For that, I still have to make a connection to the light. But it's a connection to the light itself. Never any issue. And when ESL and Reeflink are all working correctly, it's easy. Just pull out my phone and open the app. But I find myself having to power cycle the reeflink a lot of the time. And if I need to make a change while not at home and the reeflink is acting up, there is nothing I can do about it.
damienpbuckley
New member
I have the same issue with having to power cycle Reeflink. It's better when connected by Ethernet rather than wifi but still a bit flaky & as you note, if it happens while you're away, not much you can do.
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d2mini
Premium Member
ClownsRCoo
New member
Check this device out as possible solution for reeflink. Instead of hooking up to router just plug your reeflink into it and let it reset itself as needed.
http://resetplug.com
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http://resetplug.com
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d2mini
Premium Member
I put a lot of corals into a QT and a few I took to my office nano. But they were PACKED in QT. The vortech was causing them to move around. And then the water turned so dense green from the high intensity lighting with no form of filtration other than a cheap HOB that I normally use on my fish QT, that I couldn't even see anything in there. It was only for a week or two though. Once the second batch of rock was in, I started slowly moving coral back in to the main display. The sps that survived their short stint in QT were brown. But they've been coloring back up. I lost a bunch of nice frags though.
Well that's interesting...
lol, thanks. It's easy when they actually sit still.
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d2mini
Premium Member
Auto Water Changes have BEGUN!!!
Two optical level sensors (high and low) in the return section of the sump control both the AWC and ATO.
The whole event is kicked off by a timer on the Profilux 4.
When the timer kicks on, ATO is disabled and a small pump in my sump starts pumping water out via 1/4" water line which runs through the wall behind the tank to the sink which is backed up agains that wall. I tapped into the drain line with a saddle clamp that has a 1/4" John Guest style quick fitting. A few minutes later, the water level drops to the lower level sensor, at which point the drain pump is turned off and now the fill pump is turned on. I'm using a Cole Parmer Masterflex pump because it's peristaltic and I won't have a problem with gravity/siphon draining the whole 50g tank of fresh saltwater. Once the water level in the sump reaches the upper level sensor, the AWC is complete, so the fill pump turns off and ATO is enabled once again.
This process runs for about 10 minutes and changes out 2 Liters.
I'm having it run 5x per day, so 10 Liters per day, or 2.64 gallons.
I was aiming for near 30% system volume per 2 weeks.
2.64 x 14 = just about 37g.
The tank is a 120g plus the sump, minus displacement... so let's guesstimate around 130g. I think I'm close enough, even if you want to include the "new" water that is mixed in with the old water.
Two optical level sensors (high and low) in the return section of the sump control both the AWC and ATO.
The whole event is kicked off by a timer on the Profilux 4.
When the timer kicks on, ATO is disabled and a small pump in my sump starts pumping water out via 1/4" water line which runs through the wall behind the tank to the sink which is backed up agains that wall. I tapped into the drain line with a saddle clamp that has a 1/4" John Guest style quick fitting. A few minutes later, the water level drops to the lower level sensor, at which point the drain pump is turned off and now the fill pump is turned on. I'm using a Cole Parmer Masterflex pump because it's peristaltic and I won't have a problem with gravity/siphon draining the whole 50g tank of fresh saltwater. Once the water level in the sump reaches the upper level sensor, the AWC is complete, so the fill pump turns off and ATO is enabled once again.
This process runs for about 10 minutes and changes out 2 Liters.
I'm having it run 5x per day, so 10 Liters per day, or 2.64 gallons.
I was aiming for near 30% system volume per 2 weeks.
2.64 x 14 = just about 37g.
The tank is a 120g plus the sump, minus displacement... so let's guesstimate around 130g. I think I'm close enough, even if you want to include the "new" water that is mixed in with the old water.
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