OK, got it. Underexpose the picture I'll try that. Just one question, how do you do that?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15345653#post15345653 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mpoletti
It's doing well. It looks like their is a bit too much light on the coral for the picture then. Try to underexpose the picture and go from there. Thanks again
Thanks Dave. Initially I had issues dialing in my 1502 and struggled for a while however when I set up the new system I designed a way to monitor the PH of the effluent which was the key for me. Now that I can see that the effluent is at the right PH, I only have to worry about the amount that is being added and after a few weeks of testing and tweaking, I finally got it dialed in. Now I rarely need to add any 2 part (although I’m also sure that adding a Kalk reactor also plays a part in this too). Do you monitor the effluent PH?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15350607#post15350607 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DanW
Thanks Dave. Initially I had issues dialing in my 1502 and struggled for a while however when I set up the new system I designed a way to monitor the PH of the effluent which was the key for me. Now that I can see that the effluent is at the right PH, I only have to worry about the amount that is being added and after a few weeks of testing and tweaking, I finally got it dialed in. Now I rarely need to add any 2 part (although I’m also sure that adding a Kalk reactor also plays a part in this too). Do you monitor the effluent PH?
I like the Tunze/Tortech combo because I think that their strengths complement each other. I love the flow and undertow from the Vortechs and I like being able to aim the Tunzes, the combo seems to work for me. Now if I could only keep the sand in place, I’d be happy.
Dave, the way I do it is probably not the way it should be done but it works for me. I had an effluent cup built into my sump where I placed a probe for a PH monitor. I use that monitor to ensure that the effluent PH is stable between 6.4-6.7 (varies with the lighting cycle). The CO2 regulator’s solenoid is hooked up to my AC Jr. so if the tank’s PH drops below 7.95 the CO2 is turned off. Probably the better way is to have a PH controller monitoring the reactor PH (through the Korallin lid) and then have the PH controller hooked up to the tank controller. That way you could control effluent PH but still have a failsafe so that the reactor doesn’t drive down the tank PH below safe levels. I added a kalk reactor to counteract the calcium reactor’s tendency to lower the tank PH that runs on a LMIII when the lights are out. I know that Milwaukee makes PH controllers so you may want to check them out too. Hope that helps.
Ramzy, I have my on reef crest at 100% on anti-sync. I may have to turn them down a little as for some reason they have really been blowing my sand around lately. Just picked some larger grain and I'm going to try to put some in the trouble spots after I've soaked it for a few weeks.
