Dinoflagellates.
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PorkchopExpress
New member
dude, 2 weeks is nothing...i was able to get by 2 weeks every time with a 3-5 day blackout...but they come back...so say you've beaten this stuff after you've been dino free for 6-12 months or more, not 2 weeks
i haven't seen a sign of dinos in 2 months...but i'm still skeptical every day i look into my tank...i inspect everything and every algae and every bubble i see i still get worried...
I wish I had the time to do this to my tank. Full time student by night (MBA), stay at home dad by morning and early afternoon, part time work, and several other tanks, pets, wife, house duties.
I wish there was an easier solution!
Sounds like your lack of time would be perfect for Montireef's approach of dealing with this.
Dennis
3FordFamily
In Memoriam
Perhaps so
karimwassef
Active member
Neglect is the answer? 
Zacktosterone
Active member
Then this hobby is not for you I'm afraid. If you can't do what's needed to fix the problem when its in your face then you'll never fix it. You have time to message the forum you have time to fix your tank. What you need to do had been given to you and there really isn't any other way. In the manual it says to do what i told you... It says dosing alone won't work.. Sooo... good luck
Amphiprion
Premium Member
Seeing as how there is no true or generalized "fix" across the board at this time, I'd have to respectfully disagree. For many people, all the extra blood, sweat and tears yield fruitless results and, in some cases, make matters worse.
Zacktosterone
Active member
I don't know what to tell you then? I wish I could just pickns cure that convienienced me and that meant it would work
Amphiprion
Premium Member
No worries, it was a partial vent of frustration
. Your method may well work for some people in some cases. For those dedicated enough, it is certainly worth a shot.
Zacktosterone
Active member
It eats the trace elements in the water column and ive read that nitrates effect its growth
karimwassef
Active member
I see it differently. Water changes remove built up nutrients that the competing organisms need to reclaim the ground gained by the dinos. You need some nutrients to fuel the algae that normally occupy the food hiearchy that dinos fill in an artificial system.
At least for me, that's the core logic here. It's why reintroducing skimmer effluent could work (imo).
At least for me, that's the core logic here. It's why reintroducing skimmer effluent could work (imo).
I've battled both ostreopsis and gambierdiscus. I never found anything that could beat gambierdiscus (UV, low nutrients, Ultra Algae X, lights out, peroxide, diatom filtration, etc.). I had to break down the tank. Unfortunately, after restarting, I developed an ostreopsis bloom. As several others have reported, ostreopsis can be beaten by nutrients. Grow turf algae at all costs (not chaeto or macro algae - they were just hosting more dinos)! Why skim if you are just pouring it back in? I removed the skimmer all together and did my best to grow algae wherever I could. I made a simple upflow algae screen and later a down flow version. As algae starts to grow on the screen, dinos eventually disappear in the tank. I removed my skimmer last June and have been dino free since August.
Zacktosterone
Active member
Freshwater will instantly kill your sps and it'll just come back. Blow it off with a turkey baster
You can find examples of what they look like in this thread. The user Pants can also help you id them if you post a photo of the dinofalgellate. You do need a microscope to both see the actual dino and a somewwhat more capable microscope to get a photo that can assist with an identifcation.
Bubbles can be sign of cyano or dinos, so their presence does not always mean dinos. As others have suggested, a turkey baster is a good way of blowing off the frag that does not harm the frag.
Dennis
