Diy led
- Thread starter flworkd
- Start date
brassmonkyballs
BMB
FLGirl....what drivers (power supply in your post) are you talking about? Depending on this the answer to you question differs. In general though you will be wiring series-parallel. Each string of LEDs will be connected in series positive to neg, pos to neg .... +-+-+-+-+- etc. Then each string end will be connected together in parallel...all negatives at one end ------ and all positive at the other end ++++++. Then the driver positive gets connected to the positive ends of the strings and likewise for the negative. How many in series and in parallel is entirely dependent on the drivers to be used. This is critical.
As for the same type of LEDs in each string. Not entirely true. The important thing is they run at the same current. If the current is 700ma such as will be used on the FEDYs then you can not run a different LED rated lower than that with out frying it. On the other hand a Cree RB will be happy to run at 700ma along side the FEDYs.
Hope that helps.
As for the same type of LEDs in each string. Not entirely true. The important thing is they run at the same current. If the current is 700ma such as will be used on the FEDYs then you can not run a different LED rated lower than that with out frying it. On the other hand a Cree RB will be happy to run at 700ma along side the FEDYs.
Hope that helps.
You know. I almost did the same thing yesterday....But mine was more of a wiring question. Guess i'll post mine too.
If we call the power supply the beginning and the last string the end.....will I be joining 3 wires at each string end except for the ones at the last string. 1 wire coming thru the heatsink, 1 wire coming from the previous string and 1 wire going to the next string.?
I read on another DIY LED thread that the leds had to be the same type and qty on each string, is this applicable with these power supplies?
Wire ....... Jae said 20 guage, but the home depot link doesn't work anymore. Is there anything specific about the wire besides "20 guage"?
I know about salt creep.....But I am leaning towards glass between my light and the water surface instead of the sealant.
and I was thinking about going 15" above the surface of the water with the light.........Do you think this will be enough light for ANY type of coral?
Should it be closer?
BTW.......I ask alot of questions......Repeatedly.......please don't hate me too much
I take it you have to have a seperate power supply for the rb strip to be able to program it for dusk to dawn? If so there wouldn't be that many lights on that circuit correct?
Regards,
Doug
Regards,
Doug
ptr13
New member
So I want to build a 72 inch fixture for a 225 with 31 inch in depth,I was thinking of 40 whites to 20 RB LEDs per 24 inch section,does that sound right? I am new to the configuration and would I be able to use the same drivers they have with the crees so I could place it in back of the heatsinks. Thanks in advance.
bigt0706
New member
i am running 4 ballast 2 of the china 85w and 2 of the meanwell dimables wich will be running my rb strip
FLGirl
New member
I am getting 2 of the large power supplies and 1 of the small that the TBRC is ordering for the club.
small
buy led driver like this
85W constant power supply with 4.2A, 15-20V .
only using that for 15rb on center bar
large
i never read a detailed quotable description for the large as I did with the small but did catch that a 220 was returned for a 110 and that it powers 88 leds 11 in series and 8 in parallel.
Again not sure, it is what the club is ordering. The whites are the FEDYs but I am unclear about the RB. They are 2.29 each. Does that sound like crees? I don't know....... I was just looking over the thread and I noticed that Jae used FEDY rb's "wavelength of 440-450nm 700mA, 120degree, At price of USD1.28/pc." so i'll have to double check that. But if I understand what you are saying, then with the FEDYs it doesn't matter if 1 string in the parrallel has 1rb and 8w and another has 2rb and 7w as long as all leds are rated at 700ma, correct.
bigt0706
New member
u are able to run the same ones as the crees u just need to be careful on witch ones u get , they recomend to run at 700ma , i would look into the contstant curant meanwells or the 700ma tomas reaserch dimable ballast as u could run more than 14 bulbs per ballast
bigt0706
New member
the 2.29 is fro the rb fedys , crees are around 7.00 each the blues he origanaly got were 1.28/pc but they were not royal blues
bigt0706
New member
Our 3w cool white led, with PCB, 220lm, 3.4-3.6V, 700mA , 18000-20000K , 120degree, Price is USD1.27/pc
3w royal blue led, 450-455nm with PCB, 120degree, 40-45lm, 3.4-3.6V, 700mA, Price is USD2.09/pc
60degree lenses for single 1w or 3w high power led. Price is 0.137/pc
this is what i payed when i ordered from them
3w royal blue led, 450-455nm with PCB, 120degree, 40-45lm, 3.4-3.6V, 700mA, Price is USD2.09/pc
60degree lenses for single 1w or 3w high power led. Price is 0.137/pc
this is what i payed when i ordered from them
bigt0706
New member
i got the small ones but i ask my friend he got the 200w ones
they are 200w at 5.6A , 36V
Last edited:
brassmonkyballs
BMB
I have to crash right now but FLGirl you cannot use that driver for 15 RBs. The range is 24-30 LEDs but the key thing is the Current output is 4.2 amps and you have to get that down to the individual LED rating by wiring in parallel and for these LEDs thats 6 strings. Divide the current of your driver by the rating of your LED to get the number of parallel strings needed....4.2/0.7 or 42/7=6. I'll explain more tomorrow.
Everyone not familiar with current and voltage please be careful on which driver you select depending on your LED arrangement. There are a slew of Meanwell drivers available here that can be used to accomplish anything you want to do. This 85W driver from FEDY is fine but you have to adhere to its capability which is strictly 5 series connected LEDs in a string and 6 of these strings connected in parallel. And no less than 4 in series by 6 strings else you will likely smoke your LEDs. If you cannot accomplish what you need to with these limitations you need to select a different driver.
Everyone not familiar with current and voltage please be careful on which driver you select depending on your LED arrangement. There are a slew of Meanwell drivers available here that can be used to accomplish anything you want to do. This 85W driver from FEDY is fine but you have to adhere to its capability which is strictly 5 series connected LEDs in a string and 6 of these strings connected in parallel. And no less than 4 in series by 6 strings else you will likely smoke your LEDs. If you cannot accomplish what you need to with these limitations you need to select a different driver.
flworkd
New member
You know. I almost did the same thing yesterday....But mine was more of a wiring question. Guess i'll post mine too.
If we call the power supply the beginning and the last string the end.....will I be joining 3 wires at each string end except for the ones at the last string. 1 wire coming thru the heatsink, 1 wire coming from the previous string and 1 wire going to the next string.?
I read on another DIY LED thread that the leds had to be the same type and qty on each string, is this applicable with these power supplies?
Wire ....... Jae said 20 guage, but the home depot link doesn't work anymore. Is there anything specific about the wire besides "20 guage"?
I know about salt creep.....But I am leaning towards glass between my light and the water surface instead of the sealant.
and I was thinking about going 15" above the surface of the water with the light.........Do you think this will be enough light for ANY type of coral?
Should it be closer?
BTW.......I ask alot of questions......Repeatedly.......please don't hate me too much
I got my wire from lowes~~
FLGirl
New member
so the 5.6A / .7 (700mA) =8
got that part
How do you know how many can go on each string
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Driver Considerations
Driver Considerations
This may be better off as its own thread but I'm putting it here because so many people are buying based on this thread. And it will likely be long so if not interested in some explanation then stop reading now, else read on.
It is apparent that many folks are not completely aware of how LEDs work in conjunction with a driver and how they MUST be paired with the proper driver or wired to match a specific driver.
Let me say though, this really is an easy DIY and I encourage everyone interested in LEDs to go DIY. However its clear there is just too much information out there with no explanation of driver/LED selection and wiring. Similarly there seems to be a pretty good misunderstanding around LEDs in general. Again, this is an easy DIY.
I would like to clear all of that up but it'll just be more 'too much information' because combinations and layouts are endless, so I want to give a couple of examples of how to go about this. Lets look at 2 drivers and 2 LED brands and their ratings and what they mean:
FEDY 85W Driver - Specs 16-20V @ 4.2A - So what does that mean? 1st here's the formula Wattage=Voltage X current. W=20x4.2=84Watts. So what do I do with that information? 1st thing is look at the voltage of the driver and the voltage of what you want to drive, the LED. From here you can determine how many LEDs you can drive in a series connection.
Example: The FEDY's operate at 3.6V and the FEDY driver operates at 20V. Divide 20 by 3.6 and round down to the whole number. #LEDs=20/3.6=5.5 round down to 5. This driver can drive 5 LEDs connected in series in a string.
Great but what about currrent?
FEDY driver puts out 4200ma. Connecting just 5 in a string and connecting it to the driver will result in 4200ma going through each LED AND may result in a spectacular cloud of smoke but they usually fail open so it should be quick and painless with little chance for fire. What to do.....
Again back to the rating of the LED...FEDY LEDs operate at 700ma. In order to use the FEDY driver which puts out 4200ma we have to knock down the output to 700ma. We do this by connecting a number of strings of LEDs in parallel. Parallel connection has the effect of reducing the current output of the driver by exactly the amount of strings connected in parallel.
Example: if you connect 2 strings of 5 LEDs in parallel you will get the proper voltage through each LED but the current will be 4200ma divided by 2 or 2100ma through each LED...no good still.
So we take the current rating of the driver and divide that by the LED rating and the result will tell us EXACTLY how many parallel strings we need to run....no less! SO in this case we divide the 4200ma driver output by the 700ma LED rating and we get: #parallel strings=4200/700=6 parallel strings. If you run less than 6 parallel strings you will be putting more than 700ma through each LED....not good, stick the LED rating.
Now we have figured out that we can connect a string of 5 LEDs in series and get the corresponding correct voltage for each LED but then need 6 of these strings connected in parallel to get the current down to 700ma. So thats 30 LEDs running @ 700ma in total. So thats how we get the "use the 85W FEDY driver to drive 30 LEDs".
But what about a Meanwell driver? Rapid says the Meanwell ELN-60-48D can drive 8-12 LEDs does that mean I need 3 of these to run the same 30 LEDs? NO!
Before we look at the Meanwell specs we have to remember Rapid sells only Cree LEDs. A Cree is a completely different creature than a FEDY. They run the same voltage but the Cree XPG operates at 1500ma, though most run them at 1000ma to 1300ma which is the limit on the Meanwell 60-48D.
Lets look at running a Cree from the FEDY driver 1st. Voltage is the same so we already know we can only run 5 in a string...same thing with the Cree XPG on the FEDY driver. But to push them near the 1500ma we need to figure out how many parallel strings. Since they handle at least a constant 1500ma we could run them easily at 1400ma. Divide the 4200ma by 1400ma for the Cree and we get 3 strings. So if we were to use the 85W driver from FEDY we could run 5 in a string with 3 strings in parallel for a total of 15 Crees on that driver. Half the amount. I will say this - you can always run an LED lower than its rating so technically you can run the same 30 Cree LEDs off that FEDY driver just fine. Only thing is you will not be getting your moneys worth of output from them.
On to the popular Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver. 60-48 stands for 60 Watts - 48 volts...the D stands for dimmable. This driver is current adjustable but outputs a max of 1300ma. Lets do the same math for this driver on the FEDYs 1st and see what we come up with. Watts=48x1.3=62 Watts. Keep that in mind.
How many FEDYs can we run in a string? #LEDs=48/3.6=13.3 round down to 13. So 13 in a string connected in series.
How many strings in parallel? #parallel strings=1300/700=1.8. in this case round UP to 2. This will slightly lower the current to 650ma through each LED in each string.
So off a Meanwell 60-48D we could run 13 in a string and 2 strings in parallel for a total of 26 FEDY LEDs. Reality is this driver will put out 52V and the LED's will run closer to 3.4V each so I intend to run 2 strings of 15 off the Meanwell for a total of 30 but I want to keep this discussion consistent with the ratings of the driver.
What about running Crees off the Meanwell? Here the max output is 1300ma so we will run only 1 string of Cree XPGs off 1 60-48D driver. How many LEDs in that string though? Well it outputs 48v so the same math: #LEDs=48/3.6 =13.3 rounded down to 13. Again with the same logic as above...this driver runs up to 52V and I know you can run 14 Crees off this driver.
So there we have it. No 2 LEDs are created alike and ratings differ. This must be reviewed in concert with your desired layout and quantity of LEDs you wish to run. With this knowledge you then find the best driver to meet these specifications. On the other hand, if you want to use a specific driver then you simply must strictly adhere to its rating which will dictate how many LEDs in what series/parallel configuration you can run. Only then can you decide how to lay them out for your tank.
Summary:
Wattage=Voltage(V) x current(in amps or ma)
# of LEDs in a string = max voltage of driver (V) / max voltage of LED (usually 3.6) Round this down to the whole number
# of parallel strings=driver current (in amps or ma) / LED current rating (ma) Round this up to the whole number
Total # of LEDs = #LEDs in a string x # of parallel strings
To get the most out of a FEDY run them @ 700ma.
To get the most out of a Cree run them @ 1000-1500ma
Sorry for the length of this but I believe this knowledge is important for DIY enthusiasts who have NOT worked all that much with this kind of stuff. This basic understanding will help avoid disappointment and wasted $.
Perhaps others can chime in to add or tweak what I have attempted to explain here which fills a void out there in information. Right now we only know we can buy LEDs and Drivers but not how come we can run X amount off this one and Y amount off that one. This is what I'm trying to clarify. Hope I didn't make it worse.
I really believe DIY LEDs are the way to go and want to help others be successful is all I'm trying to do here.
Hopefully this all helps somewhat....if not I'm sure I'll hear about it
Driver Considerations
This may be better off as its own thread but I'm putting it here because so many people are buying based on this thread. And it will likely be long so if not interested in some explanation then stop reading now, else read on.
It is apparent that many folks are not completely aware of how LEDs work in conjunction with a driver and how they MUST be paired with the proper driver or wired to match a specific driver.
Let me say though, this really is an easy DIY and I encourage everyone interested in LEDs to go DIY. However its clear there is just too much information out there with no explanation of driver/LED selection and wiring. Similarly there seems to be a pretty good misunderstanding around LEDs in general. Again, this is an easy DIY.
I would like to clear all of that up but it'll just be more 'too much information' because combinations and layouts are endless, so I want to give a couple of examples of how to go about this. Lets look at 2 drivers and 2 LED brands and their ratings and what they mean:
FEDY 85W Driver - Specs 16-20V @ 4.2A - So what does that mean? 1st here's the formula Wattage=Voltage X current. W=20x4.2=84Watts. So what do I do with that information? 1st thing is look at the voltage of the driver and the voltage of what you want to drive, the LED. From here you can determine how many LEDs you can drive in a series connection.
Example: The FEDY's operate at 3.6V and the FEDY driver operates at 20V. Divide 20 by 3.6 and round down to the whole number. #LEDs=20/3.6=5.5 round down to 5. This driver can drive 5 LEDs connected in series in a string.
Great but what about currrent?
FEDY driver puts out 4200ma. Connecting just 5 in a string and connecting it to the driver will result in 4200ma going through each LED AND may result in a spectacular cloud of smoke but they usually fail open so it should be quick and painless with little chance for fire. What to do.....
Again back to the rating of the LED...FEDY LEDs operate at 700ma. In order to use the FEDY driver which puts out 4200ma we have to knock down the output to 700ma. We do this by connecting a number of strings of LEDs in parallel. Parallel connection has the effect of reducing the current output of the driver by exactly the amount of strings connected in parallel.
Example: if you connect 2 strings of 5 LEDs in parallel you will get the proper voltage through each LED but the current will be 4200ma divided by 2 or 2100ma through each LED...no good still.
So we take the current rating of the driver and divide that by the LED rating and the result will tell us EXACTLY how many parallel strings we need to run....no less! SO in this case we divide the 4200ma driver output by the 700ma LED rating and we get: #parallel strings=4200/700=6 parallel strings. If you run less than 6 parallel strings you will be putting more than 700ma through each LED....not good, stick the LED rating.
Now we have figured out that we can connect a string of 5 LEDs in series and get the corresponding correct voltage for each LED but then need 6 of these strings connected in parallel to get the current down to 700ma. So thats 30 LEDs running @ 700ma in total. So thats how we get the "use the 85W FEDY driver to drive 30 LEDs".
But what about a Meanwell driver? Rapid says the Meanwell ELN-60-48D can drive 8-12 LEDs does that mean I need 3 of these to run the same 30 LEDs? NO!
Before we look at the Meanwell specs we have to remember Rapid sells only Cree LEDs. A Cree is a completely different creature than a FEDY. They run the same voltage but the Cree XPG operates at 1500ma, though most run them at 1000ma to 1300ma which is the limit on the Meanwell 60-48D.
Lets look at running a Cree from the FEDY driver 1st. Voltage is the same so we already know we can only run 5 in a string...same thing with the Cree XPG on the FEDY driver. But to push them near the 1500ma we need to figure out how many parallel strings. Since they handle at least a constant 1500ma we could run them easily at 1400ma. Divide the 4200ma by 1400ma for the Cree and we get 3 strings. So if we were to use the 85W driver from FEDY we could run 5 in a string with 3 strings in parallel for a total of 15 Crees on that driver. Half the amount. I will say this - you can always run an LED lower than its rating so technically you can run the same 30 Cree LEDs off that FEDY driver just fine. Only thing is you will not be getting your moneys worth of output from them.
On to the popular Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver. 60-48 stands for 60 Watts - 48 volts...the D stands for dimmable. This driver is current adjustable but outputs a max of 1300ma. Lets do the same math for this driver on the FEDYs 1st and see what we come up with. Watts=48x1.3=62 Watts. Keep that in mind.
How many FEDYs can we run in a string? #LEDs=48/3.6=13.3 round down to 13. So 13 in a string connected in series.
How many strings in parallel? #parallel strings=1300/700=1.8. in this case round UP to 2. This will slightly lower the current to 650ma through each LED in each string.
So off a Meanwell 60-48D we could run 13 in a string and 2 strings in parallel for a total of 26 FEDY LEDs. Reality is this driver will put out 52V and the LED's will run closer to 3.4V each so I intend to run 2 strings of 15 off the Meanwell for a total of 30 but I want to keep this discussion consistent with the ratings of the driver.
What about running Crees off the Meanwell? Here the max output is 1300ma so we will run only 1 string of Cree XPGs off 1 60-48D driver. How many LEDs in that string though? Well it outputs 48v so the same math: #LEDs=48/3.6 =13.3 rounded down to 13. Again with the same logic as above...this driver runs up to 52V and I know you can run 14 Crees off this driver.
So there we have it. No 2 LEDs are created alike and ratings differ. This must be reviewed in concert with your desired layout and quantity of LEDs you wish to run. With this knowledge you then find the best driver to meet these specifications. On the other hand, if you want to use a specific driver then you simply must strictly adhere to its rating which will dictate how many LEDs in what series/parallel configuration you can run. Only then can you decide how to lay them out for your tank.
Summary:
Wattage=Voltage(V) x current(in amps or ma)
# of LEDs in a string = max voltage of driver (V) / max voltage of LED (usually 3.6) Round this down to the whole number
# of parallel strings=driver current (in amps or ma) / LED current rating (ma) Round this up to the whole number
Total # of LEDs = #LEDs in a string x # of parallel strings
To get the most out of a FEDY run them @ 700ma.
To get the most out of a Cree run them @ 1000-1500ma
Sorry for the length of this but I believe this knowledge is important for DIY enthusiasts who have NOT worked all that much with this kind of stuff. This basic understanding will help avoid disappointment and wasted $.
Perhaps others can chime in to add or tweak what I have attempted to explain here which fills a void out there in information. Right now we only know we can buy LEDs and Drivers but not how come we can run X amount off this one and Y amount off that one. This is what I'm trying to clarify. Hope I didn't make it worse.
I really believe DIY LEDs are the way to go and want to help others be successful is all I'm trying to do here.
Hopefully this all helps somewhat....if not I'm sure I'll hear about it
Last edited:
bigt0706
New member
they recomend 11x8 tottal of 88
if u do the math its 36/3.6 = 10 so it would be a tottal of 8x10 or 80 tottal
Last edited:
FLGirl
New member
How funny is it before you edited your post I did go back to do the math
Not because I didn't believe you, but because I wanted to make sure I understood the math.
Thanks again to both of you. You have helped me wrap my head around this project and I feel alot better about doing it now.
So just out of curiosity, Do you guys have a dedicated circuit (w/outlet)for these lights (or light controller)or just plugged in to your surge protector along with everything else.
Not because I didn't believe you, but because I wanted to make sure I understood the math.
Thanks again to both of you. You have helped me wrap my head around this project and I feel alot better about doing it now.
So just out of curiosity, Do you guys have a dedicated circuit (w/outlet)for these lights (or light controller)or just plugged in to your surge protector along with everything else.
bigt0706
New member
How funny is it before you edited your post I did go back to do the math
Not because I didn't believe you, but because I wanted to make sure I understood the math.
Thanks again to both of you. You have helped me wrap my head around this project and I feel alot better about doing it now.
So just out of curiosity, Do you guys have a dedicated circuit (w/outlet)for these lights (or light controller)or just plugged in to your surge protector along with everything else.
mine are into a reef keeper
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