Joekneebone
New member
Thanks for the reply!
would you be able to let us know how it goes?
Thanks!
would you be able to let us know how it goes?
Thanks!
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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biggerpapa
New member
Soundwave,
I am going back to your first post to get all the equipment from LEDsupply. If you had to do it all over again, would you change anything?
Thanks, Mike
Riverside,CA
I am going back to your first post to get all the equipment from LEDsupply. If you had to do it all over again, would you change anything?
Thanks, Mike
Riverside,CA
SpacedCowboy
New member
Sure, though I've now got ideas for making it a bit prettier, and have ordered a 3d-printer kit (http://makerbot.com/) for some of the parts I have in mind. The 3d-printer kit ought to arrive mid January, so don't hold your breath waiting for the LED results until after then. Even then, I'd breathe
Simon
Awesome, I didn't know this product.
What parts do you have specifically in mind ?
I'm following this thread for a while now, but please share the results once you get your "printer" (seems strange to me to call that a printer :rollface: )
npsossi@msn.com
New member
I have an Aqua Pod I would like to change to LED. The tank is 20 deep, 17width and 20 long. Somewhere back about 20 pages ago I saw a link for a diy kit which had 12 leds. Would this be enough?
npsossi@msn.com
New member
http://www.rapidled.com/
Sorry here was the link.
Sorry here was the link.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I'd try to get up around 18 - 20 LEDs for a tank that size (~30 gallons) if you want to keep more demanding corals. 12 LEDs would probably be OK if you were going to stick with easier stuff. Use NO optics or you'll get the columns of light effect, since you'll have to space things pretty wide to cover a tank that size with 12 LEDs.
And if you order from rapidLED be sure to note that they sell Q4 and Q5 bin cool white XR-E. The Q4 bin is less efficient (i.e. less light per LED, more heat, more power consumed.) It's around a 10% difference so not a huge deal but worth knowing.
And if you order from rapidLED be sure to note that they sell Q4 and Q5 bin cool white XR-E. The Q4 bin is less efficient (i.e. less light per LED, more heat, more power consumed.) It's around a 10% difference so not a huge deal but worth knowing.
SpacedCowboy
New member
Basically housings to hide wires, hold fans, and to duct air from the fans over the Aluminium to cool the LEDs
I know, it is like an inkjet printer though, it's just a bit more ... real
ATB
Simon
npsossi@msn.com
New member
Thanks for the reply. I am planning to put Recordea and Zoas in this tank. If I bought one of these kits what else would I need besides something to screw the lights to?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Rics and zoas would probably be fine under 12 LEDs on a tank that size.
Besides that kit, the biggest thing you need is a heatsink. Most people are using the mammoth sinks from heatsinkusa but they're pretty much overkill (and a touch expensive). Look around and be creative. Any thick aluminum stock (better with fins) will probably be OK. A fan will help a ton if your heatsink isn't totally ideal.
Also, for materials:
-solder (plain old 60/40 electronics rosin core)
-hookup wire (~20 gauge solid core for LED to LED on the fixture, ~16 gauge stranded for LEDs to driver and driver to the wall)
-A plug for the power supply, so you can plug it in the wall
-Thermal grease, for between the stars and the heatsink
-heatshrink to protect your solder connections
-some sort of hood, pendant, etc to put the whole thing in
-a splash shield to protect the LEDs from tank moisture
Also, if you get a dimmable driver, you'll at least need a 10v DC source to get it to turn on. This can be a simple 10v DC wall wart, or a 12v DC wall wart with a pot or voltage regulator to knock it down to 10v. If you get one of the non-dimmable meanwells then of course you don't have to worry about this.
Besides that kit, the biggest thing you need is a heatsink. Most people are using the mammoth sinks from heatsinkusa but they're pretty much overkill (and a touch expensive). Look around and be creative. Any thick aluminum stock (better with fins) will probably be OK. A fan will help a ton if your heatsink isn't totally ideal.
Also, for materials:
-solder (plain old 60/40 electronics rosin core)
-hookup wire (~20 gauge solid core for LED to LED on the fixture, ~16 gauge stranded for LEDs to driver and driver to the wall)
-A plug for the power supply, so you can plug it in the wall
-Thermal grease, for between the stars and the heatsink
-heatshrink to protect your solder connections
-some sort of hood, pendant, etc to put the whole thing in
-a splash shield to protect the LEDs from tank moisture
Also, if you get a dimmable driver, you'll at least need a 10v DC source to get it to turn on. This can be a simple 10v DC wall wart, or a 12v DC wall wart with a pot or voltage regulator to knock it down to 10v. If you get one of the non-dimmable meanwells then of course you don't have to worry about this.
npsossi@msn.com
New member
Thank you sir. I will post pics as I get this going.
Thanks again
Thanks again
AquaMonkey
New member
Just about finished up my lights from the original post from this giant thread.
All I have to go "design thinking wise" is what/how to make a splash guard.
In the original post soundwave mentioned making one in passing. I bought some spacers that may just be tall enough to give me some room for my optics if I choose to use them.
So My question is : IF I use acrylic/lexan wont it bow and warp under the heat. The lexan in my sump warps just from my light in there.
How have you all attached your splash guards?
Thanks
All I have to go "design thinking wise" is what/how to make a splash guard.
In the original post soundwave mentioned making one in passing. I bought some spacers that may just be tall enough to give me some room for my optics if I choose to use them.
So My question is : IF I use acrylic/lexan wont it bow and warp under the heat. The lexan in my sump warps just from my light in there.
How have you all attached your splash guards?
Thanks
Neogenocide
New member
I've got the Mean Well ELN-60-48P driving 12 LED's, I just laid my hand on mine, heat is barely noticeable.
Scott
mm95z71
New member
LED build
LED build
Just finished building an LED lighting fixture for my 55 gallon reef tank. Thought I would post some info on what I used.
LEDs
30- CREE XR-E Q5- www.ledlightingsupply.com
30- CREE XR-E Royal Blue- www.ledlightingsupply.com
10- 3023-D-N buckpucks- www.ledsupply.com
2- 24v @ 8.3A potrans power supply- www.mpja.com
1- 8.5" X 48" heat sink- ebay
1- aluminum project box- Radio Shack
1- 3M Thermal Epoxy TC-2810- I sell it so it was easy to get.
2- extension cords- Lowe's
wire, solder, shrink tubing, aluminum strips, 3M VHB tape, etc.- various
I tried to post pictures and could not figure it out. Guess I should stick to building and not posting. If anyone can tell me how I will get some pics.
My project would not have been possible without Soundwave and everyone's posts. Thanks for all your help!!! This was a great project and my tank looks amazing. The all aluminum fixture looks pretty good too. Pictures don't do LEDs justice. I was blown away when I turned everything on. Let me know if you have any questions.
LED build
Just finished building an LED lighting fixture for my 55 gallon reef tank. Thought I would post some info on what I used.
LEDs
30- CREE XR-E Q5- www.ledlightingsupply.com
30- CREE XR-E Royal Blue- www.ledlightingsupply.com
10- 3023-D-N buckpucks- www.ledsupply.com
2- 24v @ 8.3A potrans power supply- www.mpja.com
1- 8.5" X 48" heat sink- ebay
1- aluminum project box- Radio Shack
1- 3M Thermal Epoxy TC-2810- I sell it so it was easy to get.
2- extension cords- Lowe's
wire, solder, shrink tubing, aluminum strips, 3M VHB tape, etc.- various
I tried to post pictures and could not figure it out. Guess I should stick to building and not posting. If anyone can tell me how I will get some pics.
My project would not have been possible without Soundwave and everyone's posts. Thanks for all your help!!! This was a great project and my tank looks amazing. The all aluminum fixture looks pretty good too. Pictures don't do LEDs justice. I was blown away when I turned everything on. Let me know if you have any questions.
MontyJack
New member
Light over sump
Light over sump
Hi all,
If you would put an LED light on your macro algae tank, which light color would you choose? Should it be warm white, cold white or the common mix of cold white with royal blue? Has someone experience with growth of macro algae under LED light?
Thanks
Monty
Light over sump
Hi all,
If you would put an LED light on your macro algae tank, which light color would you choose? Should it be warm white, cold white or the common mix of cold white with royal blue? Has someone experience with growth of macro algae under LED light?
Thanks
Monty
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