purebullet417
Rimless Reef Club
so what would you need to run 4 g2 non pro pucks? Would like to use the coralux 5up with LDDS. Im new with this type of DIY just trying to understand exactly whats needed to drive 4
DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?
- Thread starter rcmike
- Start date
Depends what LDD you are planning to run and how you plan to wire the pucks. There's a handy LDD calculator online if you search for it that lets you put in the drivers you plan to use, the LED forward voltage for each channel and how many LEDs and it will spit out your minimum power supply requirements.
I've got mine, my pucks, connectors, pins and fan but no LDD/boards yet so can't test :lmao:
jesster_rm80
New member
Haha I have pins, connectors, power supply, drivers, heat sink, two pucks, but just waiting until this Friday to buy a controller and wire it all up. We all seem to be missing just one piece to the puzzle.
_shorty_
New member
more progress!
more progress!
Got my reflow soldering done last night. Soldered on the Violets on the outer edge, and the low spectrum red in the middle (all from semiLED). Unfortunately - the red in the middle was designed to accept what I'm guessing would be a osram LED, which are apparently a tiny bit smaller with smaller thermal pads. So the center red doesn't work. I'm going to have to remove those and engineer up an alternative socket solution. Fun stuff!
more progress!
Got my reflow soldering done last night. Soldered on the Violets on the outer edge, and the low spectrum red in the middle (all from semiLED). Unfortunately - the red in the middle was designed to accept what I'm guessing would be a osram LED, which are apparently a tiny bit smaller with smaller thermal pads. So the center red doesn't work. I'm going to have to remove those and engineer up an alternative socket solution. Fun stuff!
_shorty_
New member
Very cool, how hard is the reflow process? Did you have to buy the equipment to do it? Mighty tempting to take advantage of those blank pads on the Radion pucks
This project has been my first experience trying so I'm learning... I'm finding that as long as the sockets are designed for the LED, it's pretty easy, just takes a little bit of practice. You do need some supplies, but you can do it with conventional toaster oven. I got my reds fixed last night (had to hand solder them), so I should be able to build and test this weekend!
purebullet417
Rimless Reef Club
OK so does my part list look correct for 2 pucks? (1 g3 upgrade kit)
2 LDD-1000H
3 LDD-700H
1 coralux 5up LDD driver board
1 power supply (not sure what one I need)
some way to get this hooked up to my apex to dim? or is it easier to just buy a storm X? or can I somehow get it down to 4 channels to use the steves leds board?
also if I wanted to add some extra star leds what channel would I be able to add them to?
Sorry for all the questions I can normally follow diy led builds but this is just so confusing for me with all the channels
2 LDD-1000H
3 LDD-700H
1 coralux 5up LDD driver board
1 power supply (not sure what one I need)
some way to get this hooked up to my apex to dim? or is it easier to just buy a storm X? or can I somehow get it down to 4 channels to use the steves leds board?
also if I wanted to add some extra star leds what channel would I be able to add them to?
Sorry for all the questions I can normally follow diy led builds but this is just so confusing for me with all the channels
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_shorty_
New member
Looks good. You have a heat sink?
As far as power supply, each color is on its own channel (with exception of center LED being on red channel), so add up the voltage of each color add 2 or 3 volts and use the largest one as a minimum voltage for the supply. Then add you total amps together (4.1A in your case) for minimum amps. Volts x Amps is your general wattage rating on the supply. Many are adjustable... So figure out how much it can adjust if you find one close (correct wattage - but volts and amps a little off). And of course going a little bigger than needed is a safe route.
For control, the LDDs use PWM for dimming. Some controllers have 0-10v instead, so you end up needing basically another controller to convert 0-10 to PWM. So depending on what you have on hand now, might affect how you choose to control.
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purebullet417
Rimless Reef Club
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im getting the o2 surplus converter so it will be apex->o2surplusconvter->coralux5up to control the dimming. Also for power supply would the mean well HLG-240H-48 work? Do you have any suggestions for the power supply if theres is a better or cheeper one?
_shorty_
New member
hmm... for two pucks.. you probably only need ~36V max power supply (can probably adjust up just above ~40V if needed. 240W is probably a little overkill so you could get by with something cheaper. 150W would maybe work, but I personally would go with a 200W since you have the extra violets on your pucks using the pro. Maybe something like SP-200-48 (with a fan)... or SE-200-36 or SE-200-48 (with no fan). Obviously the non-fan version is a little cheaper - I've notice with my 600W fan version, the fan is very loud...
black74
Member
Has anyone tried the new Bluefish LED controller? I am thinking of purchasing 2 sets of G3 pucks for my 150g SPS tank and run them thru a Coralux 5 up board controlled thru this controller: http://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/
Looks like it runs PWM and 0-10V signals and has up to 6-channels for control. Now if I can only get that damn wiring straightened out.:headwally:
Looks like it runs PWM and 0-10V signals and has up to 6-channels for control. Now if I can only get that damn wiring straightened out.:headwally:
What are the dimensions of your 150g? Most likely you'll need 3 sets if it's a 6 foot tank. My friend has a 180g bowfront and he has 3 Radion G1's w/ T1R lenses over it. Two would probably not provide enough coverage. As far as the controller goes, only a handful of beta testers on other forums have tried it first hand, haven't heard any complaints...I pre-ordered one and am impatiently waiting for it :bounce3: It will work the same as the Storm controller most people have been hooking up to the LDD boards as it can output 0-5V, 0-10V PWM and 0-10VDC as well so you can run virtually any kind of dimmable driver.
black74
Member
sorry... forgot to mention, I have 4 x 80w T5 Blue+ that im running as supplementation. Yes, the ease of programming, athetics, and availability to use any dimmable driver is why I went this route. I'm pre-ordering mine next week.:bounce3:
nly04
Active member
I'm glad i found this thread. I was going to order a 4th Gen2 for my tank yesterday and BRS was sold out and i didn't really want to put a G3 with the 2's so now i feel like i can just upgrade al my g2 pucks to g3 for the same price as one extra fixture and then have 6 pucks to add for extra PAR. I just hope i can understand all this electrical stuff and get it right.
_shorty_
New member
Electrically, it's no different than any othere DIY LED... so other DIY LED threads should also be a good resource. good luck!
aquapod24
New member
Hi everyone I have a set of Gen 2 PUKs for $75 shipped if any of you are interested. I will have another set for sale this Thursday when my next upgrade is in. Upgrading to gen 3 pros. I wish I could do a diy build with four of them it would be nice! Lol I read your thread and it was as if I was reading Greek.
