DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?

Hard to say without knowing the interanals of that guy. I'd think if you're going to DIY it, trying to modify that fixture would be more challenging and risk than just researching and buying the parts you need.. and you'd have more flexibility building your own.
 
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Hello!
Amazing thread!
Until this morning I thought to use my savings to buy three pucks Auroras with Coralux Storm LED Controller. But I saw that the gen3 cluster retrofit kits are cheaper, and looking to resolve this issue I found this thread :)
If I buy two kits gen3 clusters (4 clusters) and 1 Coralux Storm LED Controller, how many Mean well-LDD 700 and 1000HW dimmable drivers should I buy? and which Mean well SE power supply do you recommend?
Thank you very much!!
Walter.
 
Hello!
Amazing thread!
Until this morning I thought to use my savings to buy three pucks Auroras with Coralux Storm LED Controller. But I saw that the gen3 cluster retrofit kits are cheaper, and looking to resolve this issue I found this thread :)
If I buy two kits gen3 clusters (4 clusters) and 1 Coralux Storm LED Controller, how many Mean well-LDD 700 and 1000HW dimmable drivers should I buy? and which Mean well SE power supply do you recommend?
Thank you very much!!
Walter.

Well each puck has
4 - XTE CW
3 - Osram Deep Blue
4 - XPE blue
2 - Green
2 - Red
2 - Indigo
2 - UV

Where each is controlled separately, and the Indigo and UV are tied together into one channel

So what you could get away with is 1 LDD for the Red channel, 1 green and one for the deep blue, since those will be at 8, 8 and 12 LEDs each. Unfortunately you can't squeeze in the white, blue and UV channels since you'll have 16 LEDs throughout your 4 clusters, so unless you want to do something creative with mixing them up, looking like 6 LDD drivers for those three channels., Total 9 LDD drivers and you should be good.
 
Do you have to run a controller with these to get full power? I have mine hooked up and running but they seam to just be at like 1%
 
Do you have to run a controller with these to get full power? I have mine hooked up and running but they seam to just be at like 1%
Details of the hoookup? You should not need a controller to get them to run at full power, if you're "seeing 1%" there's something wrong going on.
 
Anyone have a suggestion for what kind of crimp tool is needed for the 14 pin puck connector pins? I was planning to solder them as others have, but with how tiny they are I think without a proper solder/crimp it's going to be a pain to insert cleanly into the connector. If any of you guys that have already built one have first hand experience with those pins that'd be great too...I got all my goodies in so gathering together the last bits to start building.
 
Hmm your setup looks right, you're only running one puck right? Pro or non-pro and how are your channels set up? I had to do a bit of digging but it does look like LDD w/o PWM signal will be on/off function, so you should be good without a PWM signal. Have you tried it only hooking up one channel?

I think you can't run 5x LDD-1000H off that one power supply. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but five at full power would need 5A current which the PSU you have can only output 4.2A max. Also keep in mind the CLG-150-36A has adjustable voltage/current. 2.1~4.2A is the adjustable current range as well but that still won't get you where you need to be.

Can you tell me how you got the wires into the 14 pin connector on the radion pucks and what size wiring you used please?

EDIT: Just noticed this on the Coralux website, might be why you're seeing the dim output w/ no PWM, still think the PSU is underrated for the application though but for anyone else trying to run them without PWM I don't think the board will work with the resistor in place.

"The design includes 10K pull-down resistors (pre-soldered to the PCB) to shut off the LED outputs if the PWM signal is disconnected (such as when a controller is reset). This avoids the common problem of having the LEDs go to 100% brightness when the controller is reset."
 
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Hmm your setup looks right, you're only running one puck right? Pro or non-pro and how are your channels set up? I had to do a bit of digging but it does look like LDD w/o PWM signal will be on/off function, so you should be good without a PWM signal. Have you tried it only hooking up one channel?

I think you can't run 5x LDD-1000H off that one power supply. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but five at full power would need 5A current which the PSU you have can only output 4.2A max. Also keep in mind the CLG-150-36A has adjustable voltage/current. 2.1~4.2A is the adjustable current range as well but that still won't get you where you need to be.

Can you tell me how you got the wires into the 14 pin connector on the radion pucks and what size wiring you used please?

EDIT: Just noticed this on the Coralux website, might be why you're seeing the dim output w/ no PWM, still think the PSU is underrated for the application though but for anyone else trying to run them without PWM I don't think the board will work with the resistor in place.

"The design includes 10K pull-down resistors (pre-soldered to the PCB) to shut off the LED outputs if the PWM signal is disconnected (such as when a controller is reset). This avoids the common problem of having the LEDs go to 100% brightness when the controller is reset."
I will be running two pucks per set up but i was just trying this out to make sure it worked before i wen all in with it. The pucks are just regular Gen2's. The channels are set up just as a regular radion would be. I did try just hooking one channel up and it did the ame thing.

when i'm done, i will have 3 complete set ups, so i'll be swapping some 1000 LDDs for 700s (coralux was out when I ordered them)

I used these 16 pin connectors http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHR-16/455-1152-ND/608594
with these header crimps http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SPH-002T-P0.5S/455-1127-1-ND/527358?itemSeq=146213830&uq=635302997203397202

and i just used small needle nose pliers to crimp.

I used 22awg wire, but i think you can get away with 224awg.

I wonder if there is a way to override the PWM signal?
 


Coralux 5up board, (5) 1000 LDD drivers, 36v power supply.

The board has a pull down resistor premounted to the board which will shut off the LDDs without a controller, either remove the resistor or you can use a 5v wall wort in place of the pwm signal if you don't have a controller.
 
Hmm your setup looks right, you're only running one puck right? Pro or non-pro and how are your channels set up? I had to do a bit of digging but it does look like LDD w/o PWM signal will be on/off function, so you should be good without a PWM signal. Have you tried it only hooking up one channel?

I think you can't run 5x LDD-1000H off that one power supply. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but five at full power would need 5A current which the PSU you have can only output 4.2A max. Also keep in mind the CLG-150-36A has adjustable voltage/current. 2.1~4.2A is the adjustable current range as well but that still won't get you where you need to be.

CLG will be fine, it runs as a voltage supply adjustable between 27 and 41 volts and up to 4.2 amps, or in constant mode direct driving LEDs between 27 and 41 volts but only between 2.1 and 4.2 volts.
He may need to pull the rubber plugs and adjust the voltage pot upwards though, I've not hooked the CLG up to an LDD yet but adjusting the voltage pot up slightly was needed on some cheaper drivers I had in order to get them to light up at full brightness with a full LED load nearing 36 volts.

Using the LDDs you should have no problem running a single puck from 5 LDDs since the LDD will convert the extra voltage into current and you will not be drawing a full 1000mA from any of the LDDs on the PSU side. I believe the math is in an earlier post on the thread.

just make sure you don't have any one string wired up to need more than the 41 volts the CLG can provide and your set. (38v LEDs plus 3v for LDD)
 
I am having really hard time crimping the wires... anyone know if someone online is selling pre-crimped connectors? or harnesses? I've been looking for a while but couldn't come across anything :-/
 
Okay I have two sets of regular radion gen 2 puks. Can someone please dumb it down for me? Just give me a list of parts I would need to buy. Please and thank you.
 
I have been running my set up a few days now. I have nothing but good things to say about these and the storm controller does a very nice job at controlling them. I will update with pictures here soon.

aquapod24- You need a power supply able to run the drivers you pick out voltage and wattage wise(if the drivers need one externally)
As many drivers as channels you want to run(radion puck is 5 ch)
Wiring to and from it all to connect them
Controller or Pots to dim depending on the type of drivers you go with
 
Same here been seeing really good results. I am actually building 5 more fixtures right now for my main display. I am working with a wire harness supplier from amazon to create wire harnesses for me. If anyone is interested I could order some extras.

The lady that is working with me recommends a different connector - ZHR 1.5mm.
 
Same here been seeing really good results. I am actually building 5 more fixtures right now for my main display. I am working with a wire harness supplier from amazon to create wire harnesses for me. If anyone is interested I could order some extras.

The lady that is working with me recommends a different connector - ZHR 1.5mm.

interesting. How much is a harness going to set you back? the ZHR1.5mm is going into the puck itself? Doesn't look like as good a fit as the other.. however the style of pin/termination looks maybe to be better quality. Like a PC fan plug that you can pull the pins out if needed.
 
They will send me a quote tomorrow. She said she will also send me a sample connector so I could try it out before they process the order
 
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