DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?
- Thread starter rcmike
- Start date
Krazie4Acans
New member
Any Adjustable 36V or 48V 150W (or higher) PSU will work. The CLG-150-36A's will work but you would need 3 of them. Like I said I would go with 3 driver boards and a separate PSU for each one.
So if you are doing that then I would go for the CLG-150-36A for each board as a minimum. I usually like a little head room on my PSU's to run them cooler and help them live longer. so I would actually get the CLG-200-48A. Then you would have head room and you could use the same supplies for another project later if you wanted. Krazie :jester:
Krazie4Acans
New member
Ok, as long as you have thought about it. I know two people who did not and I am rebuilding their lights as we speak to replace all the damaged LEDs and wiring.
Krazie :jester:The linear ones do not but a piece of t12 flourescent tube protector will make a nice splash gaurd. they are a couple dollars and at most hardware stores. just split it and attach however you want.
I'd re think that, the optics and bjb connectors won't protect against salt creep and splashing water. You'd be amazed how covered in salt my fluorescent tubes get hanging 6" above the water on my 55gal. A tiny bit of salt in the connections and down to the heatsink can short your whole string......
If you're hanging things closer than 12" above water get something to act as splash gaurds for the linear strips.
That definitely helps........except when your splashing around while working on the tank :lolspin:
crn005
New member
Hey how do I test the individual diodes on the non-pro puck? Krazie explained it briefly about where to hook up the two positive and negative leads from my walwart but I'm just not getting results on diodes that I know work. I'm getting a little frustrated with the damn things.
There should be two small solder points less than a milimeter square next to each diode. one positive one negative. easiest to use a multimeter probe on the diode test for this but AA battery box with leads works also if you can do it with out blinding yourself :lolspin:
crn005
New member
Haha I've been blinding myself a lot lately for this project. As a matter of fact, I'm seeing spots right now! Anyway, I can only get a response out of the royal blue and blue LEDs. I couldn't get a green to light up and the red has basically impossible to reach terminals. Last of all, I couldn't get a single white LED to light up. What to do.....
......hook each string up to a driver to verify it's working?
crn005
New member
The white string (the string in question) was switched with the blue string. The blue string worked off of the white driver, but the white string did not work off of the blue driver (the blue driver has been working with the blue stringer before this experiment).
Ligershark
Member
I have a set (2 pucks) of radion pros gen2. How many amps is everyone running each channel? I see some people using 1000ma ldd drivers for each string but I feel like that has to be killing the life of the leds.
I intend on going with the following.
white -1000
red- 700
green-700
blue-700 (maybe 1000)
royal blue-700 (maybe 1000)
uv - 700 (maybe 500)
I will also be powering 3 pwm fans off of the same power supply. Any advice/recommendations/experience on how many milliamps to run the led channels. I know running the leds at a higher percentage and lower milliamps will save energy (wattage) and heat. I'll use a mean well scw to power the fans.
I intend on going with the following.
white -1000
red- 700
green-700
blue-700 (maybe 1000)
royal blue-700 (maybe 1000)
uv - 700 (maybe 500)
I will also be powering 3 pwm fans off of the same power supply. Any advice/recommendations/experience on how many milliamps to run the led channels. I know running the leds at a higher percentage and lower milliamps will save energy (wattage) and heat. I'll use a mean well scw to power the fans.
Krazie4Acans
New member
It's pretty hard to get a good connection to the solder pads on these Radion pucks due to the way they surface mount to the board. I soldered some straight pins to the wires of my walwart so that I could poke them under the LED a little to make sure I was getting a good connection. If you still can't get any of them to light then I'm calling the whites dead on those pucks. connecting to each LEDs solder points rules out any other components on the board being bad and just tests the individual LEDs. As long as you are sure you are getting a connection to the solder pad and they still don't light then you can call them dead. Krazie :jester:
Krazie4Acans
New member
Sounds like you have it figured out. I'm not sure what your real question is. lol
I believe the ratings for each channel are:
white -1500
red- 1000
green-1000
blue-1500
royal blue-1500
uv - 1000
So anything you run them below that will still work but will slightly change the LED's output color as well.
I am running mine as follows:
white -1000
red- 700
green-700
blue-1000
royal blue-1000
uv - 700
on a 48V 350W supply with good head room and running very cool. I am also using a SCW to power two 120mm fans on the heatsync. Krazie :jester:
Ligershark
Member
I wasn't sure what the ratings were on the uv. I saw many people using the meanwell clg's with 36v and 4.2a rating but maybe that was for the non pro pucks. I am currently looking at hlg's in the 185w to 240 watt range, from 36v to 48v.
How do the scw's effect forward voltage? Do I have to add forward voltage for 1 fan, all the fans, or for the scw?
Ideally I would like to use the hlg-185h-36 Its 36v and 5.2a
my channels add up to 5.1a without fans.
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