DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?

harness completed and shipped today... PM me if your intrested.
 

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I wasn't sure what the ratings were on the uv. I saw many people using the meanwell clg's with 36v and 4.2a rating but maybe that was for the non pro pucks. I am currently looking at hlg's in the 185w to 240 watt range, from 36v to 48v.

How do the scw's effect forward voltage? Do I have to add forward voltage for 1 fan, all the fans, or for the scw?

Ideally I would like to use the hlg-185h-36 Its 36v and 5.2a

my channels add up to 5.1a without fans.

Remember that most people are running these off LDD's or CAT or some other driver boards and not directly off of an HLG. If you are thinking of running them direct off of an HLG then you would want one for each channel so that you can control them independently.

If your using one of the multi driver boards then all you have to worry about is that your input voltage is greater than your highest needed output voltage and that the total number of amps is greater than the individual amps per channel added together.

The SCW is voltage and current draw on top of what your LED's need. So add some additional overhead for that. Your HLG-185H-36 is going to be running at 100% max on voltage and current and that is never a good idea with linear power supplies. I would recommend that you get something with at least 20% more than what you need total for everything.

Which SCW did you get? Is it the B or the C version? If it's the C version then I would recommend you get the HLG-250H-48. If you got the B version then I suggest the HLG-250H-36.

The HLG-185H-36 with 1 fan would be running that power supply right to the ragged edge and it would be hot with it's fan running all the time. Krazie :jester:
 
Remember that most people are running these off LDD's or CAT or some other driver boards and not directly off of an HLG. If you are thinking of running them direct off of an HLG then you would want one for each channel so that you can control them independently.

If your using one of the multi driver boards then all you have to worry about is that your input voltage is greater than your highest needed output voltage and that the total number of amps is greater than the individual amps per channel added together.

The SCW is voltage and current draw on top of what your LED's need. So add some additional overhead for that. Your HLG-185H-36 is going to be running at 100% max on voltage and current and that is never a good idea with linear power supplies. I would recommend that you get something with at least 20% more than what you need total for everything.

Which SCW did you get? Is it the B or the C version? If it's the C version then I would recommend you get the HLG-250H-48. If you got the B version then I suggest the HLG-250H-36.

The HLG-185H-36 with 1 fan would be running that power supply right to the ragged edge and it would be hot with it's fan running all the time. Krazie :jester:

HLG is an LED driver that just happens to work as a voltage supply also. They are designed to deliver their maximum rated watts. They do get warm as do all PSUs, however they are passively cooled, no fan. Still, it doesn't hurt to run them at under 100% when possible, however they are most efficient at the upper end of thier power rating. Efficiency drops way off if run below 50% load according to the data sheets.
 
HLG is an LED driver that just happens to work as a voltage supply also. They are designed to deliver their maximum rated watts. They do get warm as do all PSUs, however they are passively cooled, no fan. Still, it doesn't hurt to run them at under 100% when possible, however they are most efficient at the upper end of thier power rating. Efficiency drops way off if run below 50% load according to the data sheets.

That's why I recommended an overhead of 20%. It's still in the efficient area of the HLG but not at max. :)
 
Alright, so I got in the new pucks and got everything set up. The whites, however, will come on but won't ramp up. Am I correct in assuming that this is either an issue with the driver or the controllers connection? Also, I got a handful of pucks this time. I tried using other pucks to verify if the puck is the problem but all of them lit up the same. I don't think it's the puck.
 
I switched out the driver and BOOM!!! After about three weeks, I'm finally set up! Thanks for all of y'all's help!
 
I thought you switched out the driver a week ago? :) Glad it's working. Krazie :jester:

Haha yeah I did. Turns out, the pucks were the problem then. Once I got new pucks, turned out the driver was too! Maybe I put the back one back in without paying attention because I was frustrated.
 
Haha yeah I did. Turns out, the pucks were the problem then. Once I got new pucks, turned out the driver was too! Maybe I put the back one back in without paying attention because I was frustrated.

I can see that. three weeks without working lights might make anyone frustrated. Glad you got it sorted. Krazie :jester:
 
I can see that. three weeks without working lights might make anyone frustrated. Glad you got it sorted. Krazie :jester:

So am I the tank lighting looks great, I finally got my ATO back in, and I'm dialing in my kalkwasser now. Things are on the right track. The tank has just been too unstable the last 2-3 months. I'm ready to get my color back on my sps!
 
Does anyone have any used pucks that they'd be willing to part with? I'm looking for G2 Pros ideally. Please pm me. I've having such a hard time locating any. What has everyone been doing with them???
 
I have a an extra set of G3 pucks available for $120 if anyone needs some. They are brand new. PM me is interested
 
That's why I recommended an overhead of 20%. It's still in the efficient area of the HLG but not at max. :)


i am using ldd drivers, a coralux board, and i do not have the scw yet but the one I'm currently using is the b model. i am going to have three 60mm fans on the fixture. this is my second retrofit using ldd drivers.

i thought i could use hlg or clg as a power switching supply to the ldd board. i do not want to use big bulky switching power supplies unless it is my absolute last resort
 
i am using ldd drivers, a coralux board, and i do not have the scw yet but the one I'm currently using is the b model. i am going to have three 60mm fans on the fixture. this is my second retrofit using ldd drivers.

i thought i could use hlg or clg as a power switching supply to the ldd board. i do not want to use big bulky switching power supplies unless it is my absolute last resort

You can use both HLG and CLG drivers as a switching power supply but they cost more and will not be running in their most efficient mode 80% of the time (not a huge deal but may make them run warmer). Depending on how many watts you need their may be switching supplies out there that are as small as the HLG without the extra cost of the driver portion that the HLG has in it. Not sure why you would need the LDD's if you are already using the HLG as it is dimmable and a constant current source to begin with. Krazie :jester:
 
HLG A model is the most efficient way to power LDDs. It is sealed and barely gets warm. It does not have a "driver portion" it's an adjustable switching power supply. The other models that are constant current are not suitable for our application.
 
g2 PRO clusters

g2 PRO clusters

If anyone has a pair of G2 PRO clusters they would be looking to sell, I am seriously interested in buying a pair. Please PM me if there are any available out there. Thanks
 
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