DIY Red Dragon Pumps, gathering ideas.

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dew2loud1: The "other" square tester was spongebobby...he was making impellers on a CNC for the OTP3000 pump...the 3000 didn't have the torque to get great results with the square, diamond, or concave square pins...In a pump with more torque ti could work better!
 
Quit shopping there...their praces are WAY higher than AZponds (even though they don't have the 4200 impeller :D)
 
I've never shopped either place, I bought my 4200 on ebay, but that was the only place I could find that had that stupid impeller
I've seen over a $200 range on websites just on the 4200 pump alone, some want like $400
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13529291#post13529291 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
There was no sticker on the pump...mavgi gave it to me and said it was a 7000. So all I can go by is what Michael said :) But, I have a 2000 coming this week to play with.

Anyone got a good link to buy the 4200 impellers? AZponds doesn't seem to carry them (at least not on their site).
Click to expand...

The 2000 Impeller will not match to the 4200 never !!!

the 2000 different then the 2400 (the body look the same , impeller the same but not the power) and the 2900 total different the body of this pump look like the one i sent you or to the 4200 .....

did you break the impeller on the 4200 ? :lol:
 
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Finally got my RMC 20-200 today, man that thing is HUGE, easy to see the readings though....

My venturi needs a lot of work, I was only pulling 80-100 scfh with a 1" version of the LFP, needs to be at least 1.5" I'd say
Right now I'm using the stock volute I ported it out as much as I could on the perimeter and the outlet. Fins are shaved and three layers of PF4 attached with fishing line,

Using 1/2" hose on the inlet I am going from 180 to over 200...The ball is bouncing off the top of the dwyer, guess there might be a use for that 400 scfh dwyer...

I just need a better venturi now and should be good to go, I would think with a little more work on this pump 250 scfh naturally aspirated may be possible with an enlarge volute. I would really like to see what it can do at head height, right now its only in about 15" of water, If I get time I'll hook it up to the ASM G6 tomorrow and see if I can shoot foam out the top.....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13530102#post13530102 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dew2loud1
Finally got my RMC 20-200 today, man that thing is HUGE, easy to see the readings though....

My venturi needs a lot of work, I was only pulling 80-100 scfh with a 1" version of the LFP, needs to be at least 1.5" I'd say
Right now I'm using the stock volute I ported it out as much as I could on the perimeter and the outlet. Fins are shaved and three layers of PF4 attached with fishing line,

Using 1/2" hose on the inlet I am going from 180 to over 200...The ball is bouncing off the top of the dwyer, guess there might be a use for that 400 scfh dwyer...

I just need a better venturi now and should be good to go, I would think with a little more work on this pump 250 scfh naturally aspirated may be possible with an enlarge volute. I would really like to see what it can do at head height, right now its only in about 15" of water, If I get time I'll hook it up to the ASM G6 tomorrow and see if I can shoot foam out the top.....
Click to expand...


IMO this pump to big for this skimmer body but you can play with the reducer in the inlet .... did you measure how much watt the pump use ?
 
I know the pump is overkill for the G6 its only 8" x 36" reaction chamber, the pump is being built for a 25.5"x 84" skimmer.
I only have an appliance watt meter which I think is messed up, because I tested this pump stock on a kill a watt before I moved and it was around 160, tested on this meter it said 190 in stock form, its saying about 180 or so for watts now, but that seems really high to me as I'm sure the mesh isn't dragging because its been trimmed back a lot and with 180+ scfh the wattage should drop.
 
is the mesh trim to the wheel impeller diameter or it's more wider ? if it's wider then it will increase the watt a lot even with 3 layer.... normal it's need to be about 120watt or even less but not to rise unless you have wider mesh and you decrease the outlet pipe diameter.
 
It's trimmed flush with the impeller right now, I'll take it apart later today and make sure its not rubbing it wasn't the last time I checked.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13532097#post13532097 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dew2loud1
It's trimmed flush with the impeller right now, I'll take it apart later today and make sure its not rubbing it wasn't the last time I checked.
Click to expand...

Just to let you know normal with the original volute this pump will use almost the low watt use...

when you test on the skimmer body please post the watt use :)
 
I just read 38 pages of this thread and I'm mentally exhausted. I am looking to retrofit an older style Reef Octopus DNW-200 with a pump that will actually pull some air. I had high hopes of modding a 1500 until I hit the page in the mid 30's about neck diameter and how a 4" neck can only support 28.8 SCFH. It appears my neck is only 4" (I havent measured, going by a photo) and the body is 8"x 19". Sorry if this is off topic, but I just invested a lot of time reading this as a possible solution and would like to hear some of your thoughts.

TIA
Nick
 
Nick, could be wrong, but it's my understanding that those pumps don't have to run at max cap. The original BK Mini's come to mind. Not sure of their neck size, but they were "restricted" with smaller (than max) inlets/outlets which essentially made them smaller pumps. I've really enjoyed working with the 1500 pump, and unless someone with better knowlege says otherwise, I think you can get this to work on your skimmer (especially with a needlewheel over meshwheel).
 
I would probably have to dial it back 25% or more, the current pump does 3000L/ H (780 GPH) and pulls a staggering 14 SCFH. I guess I could make the volute with a 1 1/4" input and start the output at 1/2" and see what it does. I could then open up the output in standard PVC sizes until I hit something close and tweak from there.

On another note, what happened to your Bubble Matrix thread? It disappeared from my subscribed thread list and I cant find it in the DIY forum.
 
Nick, I think 1/2" might be a waste of time. I tried 3/4" and that was too restrictive for my needs, but may be a good starting point. I think it's a volute volume deal. The original Mini's appeared to use the standard volutes that come on the 1500. I believe Han has said that that was a big factor in making them "smaller" pumps.
 
Its the impeller diameter/thickness, the volute diameter/thickness, the venturi diameter, and the outlet diameter... all factors here. If you go shrinking a few things w/o changing the others, you can end up with a very hot pump.

For instance, changing the output diameter and venturi alone means that the impeller will be spinning alot of water that doesnt move in/out of the pump... so it is wasting energy on itself. If you start making the impeller smaller, and maybe the volute only as deep as the outlet diameter (outlet diameter and volute depth should match), you are adjusting other parts of the pump so it wastes less energy on itself.

It always makes me think of modern autos...3200-5000lbs of auto to move 200lbs of human... the engine has to waste more power on moving itself than its cargo.
 
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