DIY Red Dragon Pumps, gathering ideas.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yeah I would imagine most are (2) pole... and I figured you knew how to derive base RPM. I posted so that others would have an idea what we were talking about :)
 
klaus states that as the lpm increases, the occuance of fowling on the shaft with calcium deposits increases. this makes sense. more air would cause more friction which would increase the temp of the shaft. but this could also be due to the design of their needle wheel not allowing enough water water to flow behind it.
 
i would think that fouling of the shaft would be a non-issue if yuo were to do a meshwheel that was not on a solid plate...on something looking like swiss cheese. That way water can easily get behind the impller to cool the pump body.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9748735#post9748735 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
i would think that fouling of the shaft would be a non-issue if yuo were to do a meshwheel that was not on a solid plate...on something looking like swiss cheese. That way water can easily get behind the impller to cool the pump body.

The plate blocks the impeller well and not the NW impeller itself. Having water forced through it is what keeps the pump maintenace free, anything else would just be passive cooling like all other pumps of this design on the market.

2-1/2 years later there's still nothing to clean in the RD while a couple of Mag drives continue to lime-up about twice a year. The cost difference may not be worth it to some but that's also why the RD is not a high-production pump at least here in the states.

SteveU

SteveU
 
if i am seeing the plate corrctly, it looks like there is an opening in it to allow water down into the impeller. am i wrong? it would seem that in the stock laguna pumps there is some sort of hole in the plat and a channel down to the impeller to allow for cooling. do we really need the shaft at all?? Mavgi(who helped start this whole mesh thing) says he doesn't use shafts in his pumps as they are only needed at start up anyway to keep the impeller centered. he says that the impeller spinning in the magnetic field will keep it centered once it is moving. Just a thought, yank the shaft and avoid all of the problems with fouling.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9749003#post9749003 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gtrestoration
The plate blocks the impeller well and not the NW impeller itself. Having water forced through it is what keeps the pump maintenace free, anything else would just be passive cooling like all other pumps of this design on the market.

2-1/2 years later there's still nothing to clean in the RD while a couple of Mag drives continue to lime-up about twice a year. The cost difference may not be worth it to some but that's also why the RD is not a high-production pump at least here in the states.

SteveU

SteveU

is the plate different on a rd than the laguna.
 
gotcha!! how would you know where to put a line to cool the pump in? i would be afraid i would drill right into the windings in the pump and totally screw it up.
 
nah, you can feel it out pretty easily. Its easy to find the thin plastic parts where there is nothing in between the outside and the impeller area. I can show some pics later that might show how.
 
Well, Ive been doing research... and waiting for my 5000 and 7000 Laguna pumps to arrive.

Klaus PMed me a pic of his new toy...
HastelloyC22.jpg

http://www.meerwasserforum.com/thread.php?threadid=15261&threadview=0&hilight=&hilightuser=0&page=15
The new 'loop wheel' is resistant to fragmenting like the threadwheel and enkamat material. My suggestion was to drill the backside of the plate that the loop material is bonded to, but as you can see... the new Red Dragon 2 and Silver Dragon pumps might have a potent new mixing impeller. More info on those pumps is in that meerwasser forum thread, but I think I saw Klaus mention that these things are doubling the performance from the BK300s he has designed them for. Wow... thats more output than a dart needlewheel then...
 
it's about time a metal meshwheel was made. If Klaus goes ahead with these, I see no reason why he wouldnt, the new BK's are going to be very hard to beat. I only hope he can keep prices fairly close to the current BK's.

who's going to do this for the dart?
 
those are different type of mesh someone wake up ....:lol:

this is approved that nothing can be better then mesh wheel impeller and you can see the picture on the BK in the post .

more then that when you put the mesh wheel on a DC pump and you can increase the speed of the pump (rpm) you will be able to get bigger air intake and amazing finest bubble .

so now we will see clone of ati pump....:lol: :rollface:

Flint&Eric :

there is nothing that you can't beat , wait when you will see the new BM300 :D
 
I know it seems like Klaus knows what he's doing (obviously). but it seems like that hunk of plastic the mesh is attached to would add quite a bit of weight to the impeller. seems like you could just use some sort of threaded "clutch" to hold the mesh and do away with the plate entirely. i'm not to sure how to describe what i'm thinking other than a clutch that holds the Hi-Hats on a drum kit. does that seem plausible Jon?
 
Funny, thats exactly what I commented to Klaus as well. He attached the pic in a PM and asked me what I thought. I pointed out that I thought that the backside of that heavy looking disk might be better if drilled to let the air/water flow through as so many meshwheel designs do. The thickness of that disk would allow for holes to be drilled at an angle even to produce a propeller to suck in even more water/air. Either that, or the thickness/diameter of the wheel could be reduced.

But one of Klaus's big things is that the loop material is actually bonded to the plate, so it doesnt fragment over time like threadwheel material. Something tells me that he needs the bonding space.

Me personally, I would imagine an arbor system like ATI used in their Twister skimmers (before they came to us) with the eheim 1262 pumps to be the best. The center of the mesh was merely clamped in place by the arbor, and so water and air could flow through from just about any angle.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top