DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[hazmat319]

hazmat319,
This is the solution I have come up with for this problem:

The idea is to use the end boards to cover the gap behind the stand. Another option is to install a vertical board behind the stand to hide everything. If you made it removable, you could get access for running wires but still have the clean look.


RocketEngineer

I want to make sure I understand this.
So, basically what you are doing is using the original 48x18 frame but then adding the extra space towards the back of the stand (like a porch addition). But to use that extra space I need to put the "floor" that my sump would sit on on top of the bottom 2x4's. I originally was going to put the floor under the 2x4's so I had the additional 4" of height space. Then trim it out so that that back area is covered. I was planning on leaving the back open for access anyway and I wanted doors on the front and side for access also. Then I can get the larger top but make sure that my tank is centered so it rests on the internal corners of the stand.
Hope that even makes sense! Is that correct?
Thanks for replying to my message.

Edit: Is it dangerous to sit a tank on a bigger stand? Wondering because like I said I have seen it done a few times with members of our group. Where does the risk come in? That the top will take on the weight and not the corners?

 

[Grumpy Vet]

Wonderful thread. I read through most of it tonight while taking care of my sick 4 year old. In the not too distant future I will be cutting into a wall for an in-wall tank setup. The wall is non-load bearing with metal studs. Ideally, I'd like to just cut out an opening for the tank and then create a frame around where the tank will be pushed through the wall. Obviously doing this would prevent me from having a stand that would be directly under the front edge of the tank.

Is there a design I missed somewhere that allows for a cantilever of approx 4" so a tank could be placed in wall? I would think w/ the right timber or perhaps having kickers - it wouldn't be too big a deal.

If anyone has any info on this kind of design, I'd be appreciative of the input.

edit...sorry - should have added - tank is 125 gallon. 6' long x 18" deep x 24" high.

I'm planning to go heavy on upper rails (red)...initially I was considering 2 x 10 - but since reading this....perhaps 2 x 8 will work. I'm not planning on any center spans as it will not be skinned (sitting behind the wall in the laundry room) and make things easier to get to. Additionally, I was planning on making this thing taller than the average stand to allow for better viewing in-wall and ease of working in sump.

 

[qessnce]

Thanks for the tutorial + thread. I've read through both sections of this split thread already.

I hope I can get some feedback on the stand I've mocked up. It's a "variant" of the most recent diagram posted, where the stand has a sump area that sticks out farther back than the display tank. Heavy duty Leg Levelers will be used as well. Our floors here are hilarious.

Additionally, I wanted to incorporate the 16x20 frag tank that I've had for a while. I think it'll be worth trying!

Fun part - Materials: qty 26 of 1x4x30

DT: Fluval Osaka 41 Gallon

Sump: 29 Gallon Long

Frag Tank: 16x20x6

----

Will this hold up to the weight?

Here is the sketchup file.

 

[Drewbaby]

Not to get off topic, but does anyone have a link to a thread for building a canopy that is as simple to follow as this stand building guide? I read through most of this thread and didnt see one, but I may have overlooked it. I can probably wing it but a guide would help me visualize what Im going to need from the hardware store.

 

[NickC5FE]

screws?

screws?

I accidentally posted this on the wrong thread earlier but this is the stand template i am using so here goes....

Hi everybody! I have all my cuts done and they all seem straight and perfect. I plan on starting my 40B stand build this weekend so the question is- what is everybody screwing theirs together with. I am using 2x4's so i was going to go with 2 inch long 8mm screws. This will give me roughly 1/2 inch of bite in to the opposing plank. Is this enough? Thanks! Nick

 

[FS7]

This is a great thread. Special thanks to all of the contributors, especially RocketEngineer. I just built a stand for a standard 75 gallon AGA, and here's what the skeleton looked like (it's done now).

When I built this, I was planning on ensuring that the aquarium had solid support all around. The aquarium bottom has about a 1.5" plastic base that goes around the edges. The bottom, like I imagine is the same for most aquariums, is not perfectly flat. Thus I planned on building the 2x4 box frame to be exactly the same size as the aquarium. Even though the top is 3/4" plywood, there is very little load distribution because the box itself goes directly under the aquarium. Each section of cross-bracing is secured with three 3" deck screws. The three in the middle are vertical, while the two on the end are horizontal. As you might be able to see, there is an additional piece of 2x4 blocking underneath the horizontal end blocking. This is not load-bearing, but provides some positive engagement and bracing between the box and the legs (which transfer) the load to the floor). The box is secured to the legs with two 4" #10 deck screws. I bored a hole about 1.5" into the long dimension of each 2x4 on the corner so I would get suitable thread engagement in the legs. These support no load (gravity takes care of that).

The rest of the structure exists for lateral stability in both directions. The center support is not load-bearing as the horizontal bracing on the bottom is 1/2" off the floor. The bottom center support really only exists to prevent the shelf I added there from sagging (1/2" plywood). The only major difference between my design and RE's is that my floor load is on four points (the ends of the 2x4's with two rubber screw bumpers on each to protect any floor it might be on) and his is distributed somewhat with the 2x4 box.

 

[coral49]

thanks to all for a great thread. That being said after weeks of reading and planning i have a basic question right in the beginning of construction phase.

Tank is 96 x 24 x 30 acrylic tank.

I've build the basic bottom outer square (blue and orange) but haven't put in the center cross bracing (Blue). Plan to add plywood as well.

Finding wood 96inch long without some warp was impossible, checked HD, Menards, and Lowes ended up finding cedar 2x6's, more expensive but only had minor warping.

My question (finally)
When i lay it flat with no weight the corner comes off the ground about 1/4 inch. I placed the plywood on it with a 5 gallon bucket of water and it drops down and is level. Should i be concerned? will the wood twisted or stress over time when i get the real weight on it?

Don't want to move forward if it needs to be redone?

thanks

 

[JohnnySack]

Wow! What a wealth of really great ideas and support for us all...

New member from Japan here (native English speaker though - so no compliments on my grasp of English pls.).

Looking at building a stand for a something approximating a 15 gal (24Lx12Wx14H).

My question is this: given i live in a seismic zone (we were upper 5 on the Japanese scale during last year's quake) and given the tank is sub-20 gal can i use 1x4s in the construction. I intend to brace the top box with a 1x4 centre span, and am considering using 2x2s or 2x4s for the non-load bearing (green pieces on the insides of the legs), along with plenty of glue and screws.

Additional info: the stand will be app 24 long x 24 high x ~13 deep (its going to be in a tatami sitting room - no chairs so i want the tank to be at eye height - thus it is so low), and will be skinned with ply 5.5mm ply sides and back... EDIT: Will also attach plywood to the top and build a ply shelf inside the bottom box.

Any advice welcome.

Regards.

 

[TheFishMan65]

The 1x4 will take the weight. I don't know if they will take an earthquake (or 2x4s for that matter). Can you screw it to the wall? The lower center of gravity will help, but I just don't know enough to design earth quake proof.

 

[DogueDeBordeaux]

stand for 300g dd

stand for 300g dd

building a stand for the 300g DD 72"long x 36"wide x 27"tall
Can I get by without center leg?
What should the bottom box and upper box rails be made of?
Would a 2x4 bottom box with 2x4 legs work with a 2x8 upper box/rails

 

[TheFishMan65]

A 300 will squeak by with 2x8 top frame (rest can be 2x4s). The equation say a little over 1/8 inch of deflection. But
A) The opening is not really 72 inchs more like 65 or 66 since the legs are under a portion of the tank. 69 inch opening allows this to pass
B) Some of the weight is actually held on the side frame. Maybe as much as a third.

 

[DogueDeBordeaux]

A 300 will squeak by with 2x8 top frame (rest can be 2x4s). The equation say a little over 1/8 inch of deflection. But
A) The opening is not really 72 inchs more like 65 or 66 since the legs are under a portion of the tank. 69 inch opening allows this to pass
B) Some of the weight is actually held on the side frame. Maybe as much as a third.

Should I step up the top rails to 2x10's
I plan on using a plywood top and bottom. Where is the best place to add the bottom plywood? I see some notch it out around the 2x4. Would it not be better to just add it to the bottom without notching. The whole plywood sheet would make contact to the floor.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I would plywod the whole bottom. Maybe glue only so you don't have to worry about the screws scratching. And then water proof to catch spill - it won't happen if you do this

2x10 cut the deflection in half. 2x8s meet the specification. I assume Rocket checked a few tanks specs to determine the limits before he selected that limit. I don't know enough about how your tank is build to say 100% it will work. If 2x10 would work for you it willbe safer.

 

[Rhodophyta]

I would plywod the whole bottom. Maybe glue only so you don't have to worry about the screws scratching. And then water proof to catch spill - it won't happen if you do this

2x10 cut the deflection in half. 2x8s meet the specification. I assume Rocket checked a few tanks specs to determine the limits before he selected that limit. I don't know enough about how your tank is build to say 100% it will work. If 2x10 would work for you it willbe safer.

A glass aquarium transfers most of its weight to the stand at the bottom corners. I am not sure that going from 2 by 4's to anything wider is really safer, other than in the mind. I've seen whole fish rooms filled with tanks only supported on the ends with everything else open space. One extreme of this had tanks up to six feet long set this way and used that open space so he could have as many as five levels of the smaller tanks one above the other from near the floor to the high ceiling. He said none of his tanks ever failed for him. We overbuild because 2 by 4's are cheap and why not have a few extra for piece of mind. When you start using 2 by 12's it begins to get sublime; and may create access problems under the tank. Two 2 by 4's screwed and glued together with a half inch plywood piece sandwiched between them deflect very little because of the plies. You can drop the inner 2 by 4 all the way around to create a lip for the plywood shelf on top and conceal and protect the edges of the plywood. Even if you later use the stand for a bunch of small tanks and then have weight supported by laterals, this does not deflect enough to detect with a laser level.

 

[TheFishMan65]

A glass aquarium transfers most of its weight to the stand at the bottom corners.

I agree until the tank is over 4 feet. I (way) posted earlier in this read that statement from a builder (IIRC), but they recommended middle support above 4 feet. If this is true then we do need to worry about deflection in the middle and a either a larger board or sandwiching will help.

 

[DogueDeBordeaux]

I agree until the tank is over 4 feet. I (way) posted earlier in this read that statement from a builder (IIRC), but they recommended middle support above 4 feet. If this is true then we do need to worry about deflection in the middle and a either a larger board or sandwiching will help.

How should I build this stand? 2x4's bottom box, 2x6's upper box, and add center brace 2x4 legs thats like on the corners.

 

[Rakkah]

Amazing Thread!

I've come to realize that my stand will be over engineered to support way more than I intend. Sadly, I don't have any nifty computer drawings of the plans. But here's the idea. All lumber is PT.

The stand, when finished, will support a 60G 24 inch cube and a 25g 18 inch cube, with a 31 gallon sump underneath. I plan on building a stand for each, and then connecting them, allowing for a nice table top look around them, with home routed moulding for show. I'll also be making a canopy and doors and such, but need to get the base made first.

The vertical stands are 4x4. corners cut out so the top box of 2x6 supports the edged tank. a 2x4 lower box to distribute the weight. The upper boxes have length pieces 32 inches long, and the cross will be at the 24 mark, to complete the box. The 60G will sit square over the 4x4 supports with the extra inches in front and back. The 25G will have a small raised box that will be distributed acros the 32 inch length of the 2x6. I want the 2nd tank to have a raised look to it since it is smaller.These will be seperated by 5 inches, and I'll use a 2x4 to keep the distance and provide an area to place the table top.

A 3/4 inch sheet of plywood will sit across the base, with notches cut to fit around the 4x4 legs. Foam placed on top and then the sump.

The stright on view of the support system, I have another "side" view of each base support if that is helpful.

Just wanted to make sure that there aren't any critical flaws in the idea.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75456214@N02/6942711607/in/set-72157629488407869/

 

[biecacka]

thinking about upgrading my tank to a 240 cube, 48x48x24. i would like to build the stand about 18/24 inches tall as i won't have a sump under it and would also like to maybe make a "12inch lip" around the tank as a shelf or desk of sort. someplace to sit a beverage and pull up a stool and watch the tank. what wood recommendations would you go with
corey

 

[fishyheaven]

Hello,

i am getting ready to build a new stand for my 150g tank (72X24X20) and i was wondering if anyone built this size with 2X4? in addition, would 1/2 birch wood be okay to skin it or do i need 3/4? i am also trying to have the flush look so the top frame will be 1/2 or 3/4 inch shorter around the top frame skin.

Thanks everyone!

 

[TheFishMan65]

How should I build this stand? 2x4's bottom box, 2x6's upper box, and add center brace 2x4 legs thats like on the corners.

Sounds good - 2x6 will work with a center support