DIY Stands Template and Calculator

fishyheaven,
2x4 will work with center support. I don't know how well the flush will work. I think I would use 3/4 plywood and use that to distribute the weight. Having 2 supports will only cause problem later IMHO. I don't now much about plywood stands - maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
 
I like to cut so have 1/2" on each side of the tank. My carpenter buddy says for the best weight distribution make it so the tank's trim is dead center on 2x edge. But that makes it a b!tch to skin flush with the tank. This design is so over built, as long as the wood is on the 2x edge, youll be good.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
fishyheaven,
2x4 will work with center support. I don't know how well the flush will work. I think I would use 3/4 plywood and use that to distribute the weight. Having 2 supports will only cause problem later IMHO. I don't now much about plywood stands - maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
Click to expand...

Thanks! so to make sure, i can do 2X4 top frame and all i need is one center support?
 
I used this design to build a stand for my 150 gallon (4x8 footprint). I used 2x4 all around but did not want to use a center brace from top to bottom so that I can have more room when doing mmaintnance. I did however use a center brace from top to bottom in the back and used two small 45° cuts in the front top corners for extra support.
Do you guys think Ill be OK since I did not use 2x6's on top ?

Thanks
 
sruiz said:
I used this design to build a stand for my 150 gallon (4x8 footprint). I used 2x4 all around but did not want to use a center brace from top to bottom so that I can have more room when doing mmaintnance. I did however use a center brace from top to bottom in the back and used two small 45° cuts in the front top corners for extra support.
Do you guys think Ill be OK since I did not use 2x6's on top ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

sruiz said:
Forgot to mention I used a top piece of 3/4 inch plywood and 1/2 plywood on the sides.
Click to expand...

What is the footprint? 4X2? I ask because a 48" X 96" 150g tank is only 7" tall.....

If the tank is 4'X2' then you can use 2X4s without a center support. You don't need angle supports as those are mostly for dealing with twisting. This is handled by the green inside piece.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
Sorry that was a brain fart. My footprint is 4x2 .

Thanks for the reply RocketEngineer. Your post here has helped me build 3 stands already.
 
Finished the first stand support from post 2337.

Note the 4x4 legs do not touch the ground nore the tank. Routed out a lip so the tank fits into place. Pocket hole drilled the top box with 4 2.5 inch decking screws, and the lower box with 3 pocket holes. Used 2 2.5 inch screws to secure the box to each of the legs. The Box sits on the cut out of the 4x4 All wood is PT.

Comments, suggestions or notable flaws?

Stand with Tank
 
Give it a good coat of paint (or two). I would not have used pressure treated wood if it where my tank. Other than that the stand looks good.

No about the tank. Maybe you should take off the labels and add some water:)
 
Give it a good coat of paint (or two). I would not have used pressure treated wood if it where my tank. Other than that the stand looks good.

No about the tank. Maybe you should take off the labels and add some water:)
 
I have to build another stand simliar for a smaller 25G Cube, then enclose it all into 1 unit. then comes the water and wait, :)

Is there a difference that the PT wood makes when working with these stands?
 
Rakkah said:
I have to build another stand simliar for a smaller 25G Cube, then enclose it all into 1 unit. then comes the water and wait, :)

Is there a difference that the PT wood makes when working with these stands?
Click to expand...

The pressure treating process involves impregnating the wood with chemicals to keep it from rotting. The problem is the most common of these chemicals contains copper which is bad for SW setups. While it may not seem like much, most folks would rather paint the wood in the stand to keep it from water damage rather than risk copper killing off a reef tank.

RocketEngineer
 
Rocket,

Thank you for the information, I had no idea.

So at this point my options would be scrap and start over with untreated or Paint the lumber with a latex to seal in the chemicals?
 
pressure treated lumber is treated with arsenic, and when it is drying it also shrinks quite a bit. to my understanding according to building codes p/t lumber is not supposed to be in the living space of a home. i do not remember the codes but i do remember reading something along those lines. a splinter or some saw dust that falls into the sump may cause disaster in a tank. honestly i would avoid it if it were me
 
Looks like I made a great stand for the front porch and had a wonderful practice run for the stand.

Thank you all so very much for the inforamtion. Don't want to wipe out the reef group before they even have a chance to get started.
 
200g_stand.jpg


stand is 130" long 32" tall. the biggest middle span is 36", tops are 2x6

I'll have to get creative to get a 12' 2x6 into my sedan, I know I can fit 2x6 10' - would I be much better served having the 2x6 span the entire top? rather than my short spans, additionally I'd like a 48" span in the middle to fit a couple sumps, or even 40". I think i'll go to 2x8 top

tank 130x18x20t

cheers
 
First off, I would go single boards. Each joint creates a potential weak point that I wouldn't want if it were my stand. Remember, you only need two boards that length. Depending on how close you are to the lumber yard you can always stick them out the passenger window on the drive home. I know, I've done it.

I would go 2X6 top frame with three sections, a 50" center span and two side spans. 130-50= 80 inches minus the width of 4 legs =80-(3.5*4)=66" left over two small spans =33" side spans. While you could conceivably go with 2X4 that's a little too much span for it in my book. That means there are three pairs of doors. Not bad for accessing things.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
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