TheFishMan65
New member
The idea is that the lower 2x4 spread the weight out. If you lay them flat they will bend easier and not distribute the weight. This would be fine on a concrete floor. On a second stroy maybe not.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
No biscuits for anything that requires something additional for strength. Biscuits don't provide additional strength they are for alignment aid.
Don
nineteen68rs
New member
Hey Everyone,
Finally got around to this....need to replace my current custom acrylic corner tank so I got a Oceanic 92 corner tank. I hated the stand that it came with so I decided to build one. Here is what I built seems stronger then the original press wood crap it came with. 2x4 construction w/ the sides being doubled up. Does this look strong enough?
Finally got around to this....need to replace my current custom acrylic corner tank so I got a Oceanic 92 corner tank. I hated the stand that it came with so I decided to build one. Here is what I built seems stronger then the original press wood crap it came with. 2x4 construction w/ the sides being doubled up. Does this look strong enough?
ricwilli
New member
Need an idea on design for system I am doing. Main tank will be 30x30 above it I want to put another tank, 30x12 that will be on a shelf. Under neath will be my sump so I want the max width I can but not go any wider than I have to for main tank and the shelf on top.
I am willing to use 2x4 or 2x6 it does not matter I just do not want to use anymore wall space then I have to.
Thanks
Craig
I am willing to use 2x4 or 2x6 it does not matter I just do not want to use anymore wall space then I have to.
Thanks
Craig
moondoggy4
Team RC
nineteen68ers Welcome to Reef Central to Reef Central I would say it is strong enough, my friend had the 54 gallon bow front and I saw how cheap the stands where constructed and they worked.
nineteen68rs
New member
Thanks Moondoggy......yeah the one I got w/ it was very cheap.
TheFishMan65
New member
cfsindorf,
Go back a few page. There is a good picture of multiple tank stands.
Go back a few page. There is a good picture of multiple tank stands.
Please comment on my plans
Please comment on my plans
I'm looking to build a similar stand to the one laid out by Rocket, but I'd like to move the uprights a bit away from the corners to facilitate the installation of European hinges.
I'm looking to build something similar to Logzor's stand:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110&page=62
I'll be using pocket screws and glue and plan to skin only the sides and top with 3/4" plywood and then braces in the corner. The front and back won't be skinned. I'll be using 2x4 all around. Suggestions are appreciated thanks.
Please comment on my plans
I'm looking to build a similar stand to the one laid out by Rocket, but I'd like to move the uprights a bit away from the corners to facilitate the installation of European hinges.
I'm looking to build something similar to Logzor's stand:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110&page=62
I'll be using pocket screws and glue and plan to skin only the sides and top with 3/4" plywood and then braces in the corner. The front and back won't be skinned. I'll be using 2x4 all around. Suggestions are appreciated thanks.
TheFishMan65
New member
wayne,
I don't see a problem. You might consider shortening the red and brown rear supports by 6 inches and extending the yellow and blue by one and a half. Just seems better to be so that the split in the legs is not carried into the top frame. If something shifts (it shouldn't but) then everything has to moves together.
I don't see a problem. You might consider shortening the red and brown rear supports by 6 inches and extending the yellow and blue by one and a half. Just seems better to be so that the split in the legs is not carried into the top frame. If something shifts (it shouldn't but) then everything has to moves together.
TheFishMan65
New member
brude,
maybe - if the inside center supports are carrying any weight then those boards help distribute the weight across the floor.
is the top frame doubled?
maybe - if the inside center supports are carrying any weight then those boards help distribute the weight across the floor.
is the top frame doubled?
thought id share my stand frame
thought id share my stand frame
building a stand for my new leemar 36x24x20 stand is 36 1/2 x 24 1/2
top rails are 2x6 bottom rails 2x4 legs are 2x6 with 2x4 added also at corners
with 2x6 between rails at span frt and rear all is glued and screwed probably overkill but in an earthquake i dont want to have to be worried about it coming apart thanks for the original design
thought id share my stand frame
building a stand for my new leemar 36x24x20 stand is 36 1/2 x 24 1/2
top rails are 2x6 bottom rails 2x4 legs are 2x6 with 2x4 added also at corners
with 2x6 between rails at span frt and rear all is glued and screwed probably overkill but in an earthquake i dont want to have to be worried about it coming apart thanks for the original design
thought id share my stand frame
thought id share my stand frame
building a stand for my new leemar 36x24x20 stand is 36 1/2 x 24 1/2
top rails are 2x6 bottom rails 2x4 legs are 2x6 with 2x4 added also at corners
with 2x6 between rails at span frt and rear all is glued and screwed probably overkill but in an earthquake i dont want to have to be worried about it coming apart thanks for the original design
ATTACH]174469[/ATTACH]
thought id share my stand frame
building a stand for my new leemar 36x24x20 stand is 36 1/2 x 24 1/2
top rails are 2x6 bottom rails 2x4 legs are 2x6 with 2x4 added also at corners
with 2x6 between rails at span frt and rear all is glued and screwed probably overkill but in an earthquake i dont want to have to be worried about it coming apart thanks for the original design
ATTACH]174469[/ATTACH]
Attachments
nineteen68rs,
You asked if the stand you pictured for a 92 corner looks strong enough. I say no. I see two big problems:
1) Wracking (rocking sided to side). In this case, imagine that the back corner of the tank is a pivot point. It wouldn't take much force for the tank to rotate around that back corner, clockwise, or counter-clockwise, while the bottom of the stand holds still. The side walls would just fold over because there's not much holding them vertical. the center 2x4 leg helps a little, because it is 3.5" wide, but I think that design is very susceptible to wracking. Each of the two front corners should have two vertical 2x4's that meet edge to edge at 90 degrees (like the standard rectangular stands in this thread).
2) A 92 corner tank has a bottom rim, so all the weight is supported along the edge. The straight side edges are each 34" and supported well by the 2x4 under the plywood, but the front curved edge is 53", and there is nothing under the plywood to support the weight except for the 3.5" span in the middle. To make it worse, the weight of the tank isn't evenly distributed along every inch of the perimeter. There is more weight per inch along the front than along the sides. The plywood does very little to support weight, because it bows easily, so in terms of support, pretend the plywood isn't there, and you'll realize that the front glass wall, and seams, are under a lot of strain. I wouldn't risk it.
Take a look at the commercial stand you call cheap. You'll see that they addressed both of these issues. It uses a minimum amount of materials, and they are cheap materials, but it takes all the physics into account, and supports the weight while preventing wracking.
You could build a curved 53" long beam by gluing three 4" wide strips of 1/4" plywood together and bowing and clamping them in the correct curve/arc shape while the glue dries. After it dries, I would run some 1/2" dowels through this 3-ply beam every five inches or so, just to make sure that the plys stay together. Then put your 2x4 columns under this beam, and you should have no problem. There might be easier ways to support the front edge, but I think you need to do it somehow, and your design isn't doing it.
Here's a link to what one guy did, that might be easier than building a curved beam.
You asked if the stand you pictured for a 92 corner looks strong enough. I say no. I see two big problems:
1) Wracking (rocking sided to side). In this case, imagine that the back corner of the tank is a pivot point. It wouldn't take much force for the tank to rotate around that back corner, clockwise, or counter-clockwise, while the bottom of the stand holds still. The side walls would just fold over because there's not much holding them vertical. the center 2x4 leg helps a little, because it is 3.5" wide, but I think that design is very susceptible to wracking. Each of the two front corners should have two vertical 2x4's that meet edge to edge at 90 degrees (like the standard rectangular stands in this thread).
2) A 92 corner tank has a bottom rim, so all the weight is supported along the edge. The straight side edges are each 34" and supported well by the 2x4 under the plywood, but the front curved edge is 53", and there is nothing under the plywood to support the weight except for the 3.5" span in the middle. To make it worse, the weight of the tank isn't evenly distributed along every inch of the perimeter. There is more weight per inch along the front than along the sides. The plywood does very little to support weight, because it bows easily, so in terms of support, pretend the plywood isn't there, and you'll realize that the front glass wall, and seams, are under a lot of strain. I wouldn't risk it.
Take a look at the commercial stand you call cheap. You'll see that they addressed both of these issues. It uses a minimum amount of materials, and they are cheap materials, but it takes all the physics into account, and supports the weight while preventing wracking.
You could build a curved 53" long beam by gluing three 4" wide strips of 1/4" plywood together and bowing and clamping them in the correct curve/arc shape while the glue dries. After it dries, I would run some 1/2" dowels through this 3-ply beam every five inches or so, just to make sure that the plys stay together. Then put your 2x4 columns under this beam, and you should have no problem. There might be easier ways to support the front edge, but I think you need to do it somehow, and your design isn't doing it.
Here's a link to what one guy did, that might be easier than building a curved beam.
