TheFishMan65
New member
Are you using 2x4 or 2x6? If x4 I think I would add a vertical support in the center of the back.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
They will be 2x4's.
Thanks I was thinking about that this morning and Ill probably add 2 - 2x2's closer to each side so i have room to just slide the sump in and out when I need it. I don't want to have to remove that piece every time i need to work on it.
Do you think it will be fine with the 2x2's or should i continue with 2x4's?
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TheFishMan65
New member
Do you want to slide the sump out the back? How many gallons is the main tank?
The main is 55gal.
Tank: 48''x15''x20''
Stand: 51''x20''x28 The extra depth will only be on the top and its so I can provide protection to the plumbing in the back as it goes from the top tank to the sump.
Its not so much that i was to just slide out the sump but if i needed to take out the sump for any reason I really don't like having to unscrew a center beam in order to take it out and work on it. Maybe 2x4's are overkill for the size of the tank?
Alex T.
Active member
OK,
I have a custom Starphire coming this week. I've read through what seems an eternity of great information and seen some great stands.
My tank is a (195 gallon) 72 x 26 x 24. Seeing as I don't want to have a center support, am I ok if I do this?
1. Glue and screw top and bottom frame out of 2 x 8
2. Glue and screw mated 2 x 8 side legs (as seen on diagram)
Since the tank is custom, there will be no plastic rim. That being said, I will be installing a piece of 3/4 plywood on the top box with a layer of foam directly beneath the tank.
I have a custom Starphire coming this week. I've read through what seems an eternity of great information and seen some great stands.
My tank is a (195 gallon) 72 x 26 x 24. Seeing as I don't want to have a center support, am I ok if I do this?
1. Glue and screw top and bottom frame out of 2 x 8
2. Glue and screw mated 2 x 8 side legs (as seen on diagram)
Since the tank is custom, there will be no plastic rim. That being said, I will be installing a piece of 3/4 plywood on the top box with a layer of foam directly beneath the tank.
I just have not had any luck with this tank. So I I finally start polishing the tank and find the acrylic tank has crazing. One of them is pretty bad and got a bit worse as I allowed it to hold water over night. No more stand building for me. Ill go back to setting up my glass tank. Thanks for those that answered my questions.
TheFishMan65
New member
Eltonka sorry to hear about your tanks.
Alex I am having some computer issues and can't run the number right now. I will try and get them by tomorrow.
Alex I am having some computer issues and can't run the number right now. I will try and get them by tomorrow.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
2X8 top frame is plenty strong enough without a center leg. The bottom frame and legs can be 2X4, no need to go bigger on the legs.
The top and foam should be plenty.
RocketEngineer
Hi everyone.
I wanted to say THANK YOU for the plans and guide and this thread. I have finished my stand and it up and running (about 10 months)! I made mine about 8 inches higher to be able to enjoy the tank at standing height. 2x4s, oak plywood, oak veneer, and oak trim.
Thanks again Rocket Engineer and all of the contributers!
Here is the building of the stand...
http://www.cuttingedgecnc.com/90stand.htm
Now to battle the algae!
Thanks again!!!
Tauseef
www.cuttingedgecnc.com
I wanted to say THANK YOU for the plans and guide and this thread. I have finished my stand and it up and running (about 10 months)! I made mine about 8 inches higher to be able to enjoy the tank at standing height. 2x4s, oak plywood, oak veneer, and oak trim.
Thanks again Rocket Engineer and all of the contributers!
Here is the building of the stand...
http://www.cuttingedgecnc.com/90stand.htm
Now to battle the algae!
Thanks again!!!
Tauseef
www.cuttingedgecnc.com
jt48
Member
Does POST #3 conatain ALL the information needed to build a stand?
I know obviously there is useful information, tips and tricks hidden within the 93 pages of this thread but I am just concerned that if I was to give post #3 to my professional contractor, something important may be left out.
I know obviously there is useful information, tips and tricks hidden within the 93 pages of this thread but I am just concerned that if I was to give post #3 to my professional contractor, something important may be left out.
TheFishMan65
New member
Post three - no it has no information
You want post one
Of course I am referring to the original thread. I just looked at post 3 of the split and it looks like a quote of one so yes. I just always go back to the beginning.
You want post one
Of course I am referring to the original thread. I just looked at post 3 of the split and it looks like a quote of one so yes. I just always go back to the beginning.
HV1990
New member
I have just built my 120g stand. I used 2x6 for the top and bottom frame ( I know I could have used 2x4s for the bottom but the lumber yard was going to charge me for the full board so the extra 2x6 would have gone to waste). I used 2x4's for the four corners. Can I go without a center brace in the front of the stand?
TheFishMan65
New member
It might squeak bay for a 1/8inch of deflection. What is the actual dimensions for the front opening?
TheFishMan65
New member
You are fine. I was thinking a 120 was 6 feet which will usually work with a 2x6. You actually could have used 2x4s for the whole thing.
hazmat319
New member
I'm sure this question has been answered and I really tried reading each page of this VERY long thread trying to find the answer.....
I am buying a Deep Blue rimless 75 gallon. I am having my husband build me a stand using the plans on page 1 but I need the stand to be wider than the tank to accommodate my sump. The dimensions of the tank are 48x18x20. I want to build the stand so it's 48x21x24. He used 2x4's for the base and it's ready to be trimmed out. We are planning on using a 3/4" or 1" top that the tank will sit on.
So does the tank require that each tank corner sit on the corner 2x4's for support? In my reefing club I see quite a few people that have stands that are much bigger than their tanks but I want to make sure this is not going to affect the integrity of my tank. For my project I will still have the length at 48" so only the width will be different than the tank.
I appreciate any help with this.
I am buying a Deep Blue rimless 75 gallon. I am having my husband build me a stand using the plans on page 1 but I need the stand to be wider than the tank to accommodate my sump. The dimensions of the tank are 48x18x20. I want to build the stand so it's 48x21x24. He used 2x4's for the base and it's ready to be trimmed out. We are planning on using a 3/4" or 1" top that the tank will sit on.
So does the tank require that each tank corner sit on the corner 2x4's for support? In my reefing club I see quite a few people that have stands that are much bigger than their tanks but I want to make sure this is not going to affect the integrity of my tank. For my project I will still have the length at 48" so only the width will be different than the tank.
I appreciate any help with this.
Nathan4Wvu
Do you like Phil Collins?
Here is the frame for my 120 stand. That being said I REALLY do not see why people are building stands with two different upper and lower frames and vertical supports in between.
If you look at how mine is built the 2x6 on the corners distributes the weight straight to the floor. It eliminates two joints that could possibly fail causing the stand to fold.
FINISHED
If you look at how mine is built the 2x6 on the corners distributes the weight straight to the floor. It eliminates two joints that could possibly fail causing the stand to fold.
FINISHED
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
hazmat319,
This is the solution I have come up with for this problem:
The idea is to use the end boards to cover the gap behind the stand. Another option is to install a vertical board behind the stand to hide everything. If you made it removable, you could get access for running wires but still have the clean look.
Here is the frame for my 120 stand. That being said I REALLY do not see why people are building stands with two different upper and lower frames and vertical supports in between.
If you look at how mine is built the 2x6 on the corners distributes the weight straight to the floor. It eliminates two joints that could possibly fail causing the stand to fold.
My concern with the stand is the corners of the tank are the only thing properly supported. The stand you built won't distribute the pressure of the tank across the top frame because the only thing holding the top frame to the legs are screws. If you read my descriptions, you will see that the design on page 1 was intended to provide as much support to the tank as possible. A point load in each corner may be fine for smaller tanks, but once you get into the large sizes you risk tank failure because of this point load.
The bottom frame in my stand has never been "necessary". Instead it is designed to keep the legs square and somewhat spread the load over the floor. In the grand scheme of things, not totally necessary but it doesn't hurt.
You talk about joints failing and the stand folding but the stand as designed on page 1 uses screws and glue to maintain its shape while the direct loads are transferred through the lumber itself. The strength of the wood is used to transfer the loading from the tank into the floor. In your design, there are angled braces to keep things square which my stand doesn't require. Therefore, my stand is accessible from all 4 sides (except where its against a wall) where as yours has restricted access on two sides.
Overall, its not a bad looking stand. The issues I have are with the structure as it would be scaled up. What works for a relatively small tank won't necessary scale properly for use with a larger setup. Then again, the reverse is also true in that the stand as designed on page 1 is overkill for smaller tanks.
RocketEngineer
