DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Great, thanks. The tank itself is nearly 700lbs and I am figuring nearly two tons total full in a shorter space with that extra height so was a little nervous!
 
I just got my Marineland 150DD tank(36X36X27), and I am planning to build my own stand.

just wondering if 2X4 gonna be enough for the build? or I should use 2X6 for the top frame?

thanks..
 
Please Help!

Please Help!

I'm in the beginning stages of planning either a 300 gallon (72x36x27) or a 400 gallon (96x36x27) display tank. What would be better a wood or steel stand? I would like a nice drawing of each stand is someone has the extra time. I would really appreciate it! If I went with the 300 gallon I would want a 72x36x36 stand and a 96x36x36 for the 400 gallon. Could someone please help me out? I have been reading all day and I still don't know how I should design the stand, what size lumber, spacing between supports, type of lumber, etc...
 
This stand is for a 58 gallon oceanic and I was wondering if this would be strong enough to hold the tank up without adding the green pieces to it. I plan on adding plywood to the bottom and top. The dimensions of the tank are 36 by 18 by 21. The legs are attached via pocket hole screws.
thx

dxbhna.jpg
 
Jrod4 Nice work shop, that stand will be plenty strong, does the stand rock or wobble?

No it's pretty sturdy. No wobble. But I am trusting that the garage floor is flat. Which it probably isn't. I'll carry it upstairs tomorrow and confirm.

And thanks, I just got into woodworking last year after I graduated and it's been a fun and complementary hobby to this one. The majority of my tools aren't in the pic but the ones shown are probably the most important.
 
2 Part stand

2 Part stand

For a tank that size, you have a span of 67-3.5-3.5 = 60" unsupported. That will be fine with 2X8.


I built a stand for my 200 gal marineland DD but I was only able to build it 31" high because my max door opening to the basement is 32". Can I use 4, 4x4 and make a box to have the stand sit on so that I can raise it 3.5" higher?

Thanks for your help to this idea.
 
I'm in the beginning stages of planning either a 300 gallon (72x36x27) or a 400 gallon (96x36x27) display tank. What would be better a wood or steel stand? I would like a nice drawing of each stand is someone has the extra time. I would really appreciate it! If I went with the 300 gallon I would want a 72x36x36 stand and a 96x36x36 for the 400 gallon. Could someone please help me out? I have been reading all day and I still don't know how I should design the stand, what size lumber, spacing between supports, type of lumber, etc...

The 300g stand will have a 2X8 top and the rest is 2X4. The first page of the thread has the diagram and what calculations you need to figure out the length of each. Given that the 400 is 8' long, it will require a center support. If you place the center support in the exact middle, the top can be 2X6.

This stand is for a 58 gallon oceanic and I was wondering if this would be strong enough to hold the tank up without adding the green pieces to it. I plan on adding plywood to the bottom and top. The dimensions of the tank are 36 by 18 by 21. The legs are attached via pocket hole screws.
thx

By using pocket screws, you eliminated the need for the green pieces. That stand is plenty strong enough for a 58g tank.

I built a stand for my 200 gal marineland DD but I was only able to build it 31" high because my max door opening to the basement is 32". Can I use 4, 4x4 and make a box to have the stand sit on so that I can raise it 3.5" higher?

Thanks for your help to this idea.

Personally, I would build the top and bottom frames and then assemble the stand in place. I think you will be much happier having the usable space under the stand vs resorting to two pieces. Could you build the stand outside and then come in through a door? Most houses have at least one door that is 36" wide for furniture/appliances.
 
Hey rocket/fellas! I just ordered a 260 gallon! It's 84"x30"x24". I'd like to build the stand with 2x4s and have it at 85"x31"x40". I'll have a middle brace in front and back. So about 39" unsupported span between the front and back legs/brace. And 27" unsupported span on the sides of the stand. So will it be ok with 2x4s? Rocket, you recommended with tanks outside of normal dims to use the #s run. I REALLY appreciate the help. Thanks.
 
2 part stand

2 part stand

The 300g stand will have a 2X8 top and the rest is 2X4. The first page of the thread has the diagram and what calculations you need to figure out the length of each. Given that the 400 is 8' long, it will require a center support. If you place the center support in the exact middle, the top can be 2X6.



By using pocket screws, you eliminated the need for the green pieces. That stand is plenty strong enough for a 58g tank.



Personally, I would build the top and bottom frames and then assemble the stand in place. I think you will be much happier having the usable space under the stand vs resorting to two pieces. Could you build the stand outside and then come in through a door? Most houses have at least one door that is 36" wide for furniture/appliances.


Thanks Rocket, I have a sliding door that is bigger that 36" however, the issue was the door leading to the basement is only 32". I already built the stand and I used framing nails and screw. Had I only used screws I would disassemble and build the side legs taller and assemble it in the basement. But now that I used nails its to late unless I start again but I would hate to. The only option I can see is if I built a bottom of 4x4 or even two 4x4 bottoms stacked and leveled and nailed together. Please advised.
Thanks again for your expertise.
 
Rocket, I would greatly appreciate if your could let me know the deflection for the following tank/stand: 82"Lx32"Wx30"T tank/stand top is 4x6 with 4x4 posts: the span I'm worried about is the 82-3-3=79. Does it need a center post?

Thanks for all your work on this thread.
 
Rocket, I would greatly appreciate if your could let me know the deflection for the following tank/stand: 82"Lx32"Wx30"T tank/stand top is 4x6 with 4x4 posts: the span I'm worried about is the 82-3-3=79. Does it need a center post?

Thanks for all your work on this thread.

I recommend against 4X material unless you get it from a reputable lumber mill. Most 4X4s aren't properly dried and will split and twist over time.

With 4X6, you would need a center post.
 
reefermad619 I think you will be happier with 2x6 the quality is better less war-page, for the horizontal pieces that is.

I was thinking about this, but I'd LOVE to go 2x4. On my 180 I used 2x8 for the top frame and have no center support. I do like the freedom this gives, but for the 260 I'm going to be running a 120-150 gal for the sump. So either 4'x2'x2' or 5'x2'x2'. I can get these tanks for cheap and they're brand new. So I'm thinking I'd rather have an extra 4" of height to squeeze my 6'1" body under the stand Vs having a middle brace. Especially with a 24" tall sump. If I run 2x8, I'd have to do a "S" motion to get my head in there. Which I do everyday to make sure all is well down under.

So Rock, would 2x4s with a center leg be ok for a 84"x30"24" tank? I'd like the stand to be 85"x31"~40". If not, what would you recommend? And what would be overkill? Thanks again!
 
I was thinking about this, but I'd LOVE to go 2x4. On my 180 I used 2x8 for the top frame and have no center support. I do like the freedom this gives, but for the 260 I'm going to be running a 120-150 gal for the sump. So either 4'x2'x2' or 5'x2'x2'. I can get these tanks for cheap and they're brand new. So I'm thinking I'd rather have an extra 4" of height to squeeze my 6'1" body under the stand Vs having a middle brace. Especially with a 24" tall sump. If I run 2x8, I'd have to do a "S" motion to get my head in there. Which I do everyday to make sure all is well down under.

So Rock, would 2x4s with a center leg be ok for a 84"x30"24" tank? I'd like the stand to be 85"x31"~40". If not, what would you recommend? And what would be overkill? Thanks again!

If you went 86" and did two center supports, you could definitely go 2X4. Plus, you get even opening sizes (86-(3.5*4)=72/3=24). Just keep in mind that you would need this in both the front and back. You could then get the sump in from the end.
 
180 gallon in wall stand using RE design. Going to add a sheet on top, and build a little something on the bottom for my 50gallon sump.

<a href="http://s1158.photobucket.com/albums/p606/ndwatso/?action=view&current=null-4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p606/ndwatso/null-4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>
 
If you went 86" and did two center supports, you could definitely go 2X4. Plus, you get even opening sizes (86-(3.5*4)=72/3=24). Just keep in mind that you would need this in both the front and back. You could then get the sump in from the end.

Thanks rocket! So what would the deflection be if built the way you describe?

If I use a 2x6 for the top frame, can I get away with 1 center brace front and back?
 
I recommend against 4X material unless you get it from a reputable lumber mill. Most 4X4s aren't properly dried and will split and twist over time.

With 4X6, you would need a center post.

Thanks Rocket. I am in the middle of a fire re-build of my house and am getting all of the lumber from a reputable mill. The 4x material looks real good. I will add that center post.
 
^^^^ I have found if you use lumber that will be used on a patio cover that wood is of higher quality and may not warp, and also depends on the quality of the lumber yard, luckly for me I have found several of those type of lumber yards.
 
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