DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Rocket, long time lurker but I have a question so I got off my duff and registered. Thanks for the thread. it has been a big, big help in the last 4 stands, but I have not read every page; just most pages.Now I'm going for #5 stand with a bit of a change. The stand will be two levels. The upper level will hold a 55 gallon tank (48X12X21 high) and the bottom tank will be a 40 Breeder (36X18X16 high). My question...the bottom shelf will be 20 inches, front to back. The top Shelf will also be 20 inches but the tank will be only 12 inches front to back. I will be using 2 pieces of 3/4 ply on top of each other for a total of 1 and 1/2 inches for a shelf. There will be braces under the ply, front to back every 12 inches. Being that the tank will not rest on top,of the 2X4 upper frame, is that plywood strong enough with the bracing. Thanks for any help.
Hoping someone can help me out with this poor planning on my part. I used the design to make a stand for my 65g but due to improper planning, my drains are being blocked by the center brace. In theory I could flip the stand upside down, therefore having two cross supports off center so I am not blocking the holes on my tank BUT would this have any negative effect due to the screw strips not touching the floor like they do normally? Sorry no pics, but it is the exact design of the plans posted. 38"Lx20"Wx40"H. Thanks for any help.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Two things:
1) I would get rid of the 55g and get a 75g. The 18" depth will make everything easier especially for a tank that size. 55g may work for FW but has poor dimensions for a SW setup. Just my opinion.
2) From my standpoint as an engineer, you need to support the entire perimeter of the top tank. I prefer to see something like this:
In your case you could make the top 12" front-to-back and the bottom 18" to accept the 40B sump.
The screw strips aren't supposed to touch either the top of the stand or the floor, they are there just to hold the pieces together. SO, not a problem.
looking for input on a new stand i'm about to build.
i biuld in the past a stand for a 220 freshwater in 2*4 all doubled up with middle post at each 24" and it was sturdy but heavy. now for the last 2 years, i've been a reef junkie for what my 65 can allow my to. i'm starting look into upgrading to a 120 ( 48" by 24" ) but i'm tired off all the mess around the tank and i' looking into the future for a possible 180.
now i'm looking to build a 6 foot tank that could hold both tanks. i was going to do it all in 2*4 but seeing this thread, i'm putting this back in question. i have a small skect done with is not acurate but the general idea is there.
basiclly, the stand will be 74" long by 26" wide ( height with depend of the beam use ). i'm using the general desin of the fisrt page as a baseline and i'm adding a post at 12" from each side to support the 120 from each corner. those added beam will support the outside frame and the tranvesal beam. no beam in the middle so the middle opening will be roughly 48" wide.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n162/Locke_333/null.jpg
just uploaded the picture from my cell, nice picture name for the upcoming stand lol
suggestion or weakness in my desing?
i biuld in the past a stand for a 220 freshwater in 2*4 all doubled up with middle post at each 24" and it was sturdy but heavy. now for the last 2 years, i've been a reef junkie for what my 65 can allow my to. i'm starting look into upgrading to a 120 ( 48" by 24" ) but i'm tired off all the mess around the tank and i' looking into the future for a possible 180.
now i'm looking to build a 6 foot tank that could hold both tanks. i was going to do it all in 2*4 but seeing this thread, i'm putting this back in question. i have a small skect done with is not acurate but the general idea is there.
basiclly, the stand will be 74" long by 26" wide ( height with depend of the beam use ). i'm using the general desin of the fisrt page as a baseline and i'm adding a post at 12" from each side to support the 120 from each corner. those added beam will support the outside frame and the tranvesal beam. no beam in the middle so the middle opening will be roughly 48" wide.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n162/Locke_333/null.jpg
just uploaded the picture from my cell, nice picture name for the upcoming stand lol
suggestion or weakness in my desing?
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I did much the same thing with my 75g/125g setup. Started with a 48" tank and upgraded to a 72" when I got the chance. The one regret I had was the extra legs in the back of the stand got in the way. Instead, I should have done something more like this:
This is the concept I have for a 180g stand that has as much access as possible, a wide open space under the tank, all while still properly supporting things. The front and ends are made using 2X4. You need at least one center leg on the front to get proper support for a tank that big. If you go with two legs to support the 120g first, that would do the same job. In the back you have a 2X8 beam supported by legs which are shorter than the others. For my design the stand is 40" tall so having the beam sticking down doesn't cause problems. This beam is plenty strong enough to support the back of the 120g.
HTH,
I did much the same thing with my 75g/125g setup. Started with a 48" tank and upgraded to a 72" when I got the chance. The one regret I had was the extra legs in the back of the stand got in the way. Instead, I should have done something more like this:
This is the concept I have for a 180g stand that has as much access as possible, a wide open space under the tank, all while still properly supporting things. The front and ends are made using 2X4. You need at least one center leg on the front to get proper support for a tank that big. If you go with two legs to support the 120g first, that would do the same job. In the back you have a 2X8 beam supported by legs which are shorter than the others. For my design the stand is 40" tall so having the beam sticking down doesn't cause problems. This beam is plenty strong enough to support the back of the 120g.
HTH,
thanks for the input! i'll try to post an update soon with the stand, i've started the build. nice to see i'm not the only one with upgradability in mind :fun2:
while looking around, i've found a similar build ( hope no one mind links to other forums... ) http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f161/210-tank-build-157946.html
first picture is a bit similar, but in my case, ( and before seeing your comment, i built the upper fame in 2*6 only. ) support beam and brace are 12 inches off the sides. 3 braces total in the upper frame, one midle and 2 to support the 48" tanks.
Nice idea on the rear frame, not sure if i'll adapt mine for it but it could be usefull for many things like to hang the reactors... Why were the bags legs in the way? ( okay, my 65 is on the worst marineland stand they have so i'm not used of having room to work with in the first place... )
your sure the front 2*4 could support the tank? recommendation on the first page was 2*6 for 48"*24" tanks. maybe with the actual picture it would be better
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
On the first page of my build thread is this picture:
Looking beyond the sump you will see a vertical white board. When I built my stand, this board was under the back corner of the 75g tank. While the system was running I realized that the evaporation would drain the 5g ATO bucket in less than a week during certain parts of the year. While trying to find a bigger ATO container, on more than one occasion this leg (and its mirror on the other side) caused me to abandon one container option after another. If I had made the front so it supported the 75g and built the back support large enough to support either a 48" or 72" tank, configuring items under the stand would be infinitely easier.
Going 2X6 doesn't hurt especially if you are going with a 48" opening. It all depends on the final design.
Don't forget to post pics of the final build.
On the first page of my build thread is this picture:
Looking beyond the sump you will see a vertical white board. When I built my stand, this board was under the back corner of the 75g tank. While the system was running I realized that the evaporation would drain the 5g ATO bucket in less than a week during certain parts of the year. While trying to find a bigger ATO container, on more than one occasion this leg (and its mirror on the other side) caused me to abandon one container option after another. If I had made the front so it supported the 75g and built the back support large enough to support either a 48" or 72" tank, configuring items under the stand would be infinitely easier.
Going 2X6 doesn't hurt especially if you are going with a 48" opening. It all depends on the final design.
Don't forget to post pics of the final build.
i see your point... currently my ATO is a 2.5G tall glass cylinder that sit beside the tank with a cover and the tunze ato pump sitting at the bottom. i'll check this this week. i was planning on one side having the electrical and the other ATO and dosing. really some food for though in your picture and comment.
dustinc
Active member
I just built my 2nd stand utilizing your design and I appreciate all the info you've given. Below is a picture of my most recent build. It is for a 38 gallon nuvo aquarium. The sides will be skinned with 3/4" plywood and a 3/4" plywood top. My question is can I attach the 2 front doors with sliders on the top and bottom frame or will that weaken the top board too much? Thanks
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/9549005645_58b20519ee.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a>
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/9549005645_58b20519ee.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a>
Tinpanva
New member
First post on this thread, I've read most (but not all) of it and have a couple of questions. Your design is based to support a tank the same size as the frame so its fully supported at each corner. My current build is going to be a 40b (sump) with a 60 cube on top. So the stand will be a bit larger, would it be better for me to just plan a granite top on your frame since the corners of the 60 won't be directly supported or is there a modification to your stand in scenarios like this? I'm not picking up the 40b until this weekend so I don't know the exact size of the stand yet, but my plan is for it to be large enough to fill a spot on my wall and have plenty of room for the 40 and a 'working' area for the 60.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I'm assuming the 60 is 24"X24"X24". That being the case I would build the stand with an extra set of legs at 24" to support the tank above and then extend the long boards in my design until it surrounds the 40B. Since the top is only really supporting the 60, you could skip the legs in the corners IF you go with pocket holes. My stand started life supporting a 75g but was built to support a 125g later. Same concept just different sizes.
Alternatively use a slightly larger frame and put legs in the corners.
Debating about doing a second coat of stain to make it a bit darker and glossier
That looks good so far. If you like the color but want the gloss add a coat of gloss polyurethane.
Uncle Luke
Active member
Hi Rocket... I want to build a stand for a 250 deep dimension tank (60lx36wx27h). Can I use 2x8's all around or is that a bad idea? Thanks
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
It is a bad idea only because you don't need legs that big. You only need the top frame to be 2X8. The rest can be 2X4. You will save money using the smaller boards, it will be easier to move around and it won't decrease the strength of the stand. Anything larger than 2X4 for the legs is just overkill and even the 2X4s are overkill in most cases.
HTH,
Lsbalogh580
New member
Question to the engineers would .25 inch thick cork work as an underlayment for rimless or plastic rimmed tank? ( 72 gallon bow front)
Awesome thread great amounts of valuable info.
Awesome thread great amounts of valuable info.
BoxesOfTheSea
New member
Solid top stand
Solid top stand
If one builds a properly framed 48" stand with a solid top (marble, Corian, granite, or the the like) would you be able to put a 36" tank on it even though the tank is not sitting directly above the vertical supports? I would think this could be done because the solid top is distributing the weight to the verticals. Opinions?
Solid top stand
If one builds a properly framed 48" stand with a solid top (marble, Corian, granite, or the the like) would you be able to put a 36" tank on it even though the tank is not sitting directly above the vertical supports? I would think this could be done because the solid top is distributing the weight to the verticals. Opinions?
