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[kkjjjmccann]

my diy cabinet build

my diy cabinet build

hey guys i was wondering if this cabinet build will be strong enough to support my 6x2x2 tank? Wood frame is constructed from 2x4s except for the center braces--front brace is made from (2) 2x3's keg jigged together and the rear center brace is (2) 2x4 keg jigged together. the center braces do not run to the floor, (the inside four legs do) they only support the lower and upper frame. The floor and the Top will be covered with 3/4 plywood. I will also skin the outside the the cabinet with 3/4 plywood on the sides and 3/4 solid wood on the front.

 

[kkjjjmccann]

which foam pad for top of cabinet?

which foam pad for top of cabinet?

i have an acrylic tank and i am wondering which foam pad everyone is using under their aquarium

3/4" r30 insulation foam?
1/2"?

thanks

 

[VisionQuest27]

So i apologize if this has been asked or covered already, and with almost 4500 posts...it probably has. Lol. But, maybe someone can point me in the right direction or offer advice...

I have a solana 34g 20x20 cube, i want to build the stand longer at the base to maximize room for sump and ato. So i was thinking 36" long, with the stand extending up for the 20x20 tank, either centered (like a 20×20 box on top of 36x20 base), or off to one side. I hope that makes sense?

Anyway, can i modify this plan to make that work? I mean i guess i could essentially make 2 stands, the 36x20 and then set the 20x20 on top of that. But it seems like it would be way overkill. Tank isnt going to be that heavy. So if i could build all in one, that would be better i think. Im not a great woodworker, and im more looking for utility at this point than anything else...

So, any advice or input??

 

[RocketEngineer]

hey guys i was wondering if this cabinet build will be strong enough to support my 6x2x2 tank? Wood frame is constructed from 2x4s except for the center braces--front brace is made from (2) 2x3's keg jigged together and the rear center brace is (2) 2x4 keg jigged together. the center braces do not run to the floor, (the inside four legs do) they only support the lower and upper frame. The floor and the Top will be covered with 3/4 plywood. I will also skin the outside the the cabinet with 3/4 plywood on the sides and 3/4 solid wood on the front.

Given that you have the center supports, you should be fine with that. The inside supports running to the floor shouldn't be carrying any weight, that should all be handled by the bottom frame. It will spread out the load better that way.

i have an acrylic tank and i am wondering which foam pad everyone is using under their aquarium

3/4" r30 insulation foam?
1/2"?

thanks

Padding is determined by the tank manufacturer. Rimmed glass tanks typically don't use foam of any kind. I've seen some acrylic tanks that sit directly on the plywood top. See what they say and follow their recommendation.

So i apologize if this has been asked or covered already, and with almost 4500 posts...it probably has. Lol. But, maybe someone can point me in the right direction or offer advice...

I have a solana 34g 20x20 cube, i want to build the stand longer at the base to maximize room for sump and ato. So i was thinking 36" long, with the stand extending up for the 20x20 tank, either centered (like a 20×20 box on top of 36x20 base), or off to one side. I hope that makes sense?

Anyway, can i modify this plan to make that work? I mean i guess i could essentially make 2 stands, the 36x20 and then set the 20x20 on top of that. But it seems like it would be way overkill. Tank isnt going to be that heavy. So if i could build all in one, that would be better i think. Im not a great woodworker, and im more looking for utility at this point than anything else...

So, any advice or input??

A second top frame that supports just the tank would be the way I would do it. For something that size, I would use 1X4s and pocket screws. Ideally you would have legs directly under the 20X20. If you have access from both ends then it's easier to do it because you can make panels on either side of the 20" opening and access the stuff in each end from the sides of the stand.

HTH,

 

[VisionQuest27]

Hey Rocket,

Thanks for reply. Are saying build 2 seperate stands basically, or building 2 36x20 frames and then a 20x20 frame and connecting it with 1x4's? Or building the whole thing with 1x4's?

 

[kkjjjmccann]

inner support legs

inner support legs

hey rocket do you suggest that i trim 1/4"-1/2" off the top of the inner support legs or just leave it alone? (the inside legs i am referring to are the ones that run from the floor to the top of the frame?)

BTW the top will have support going from front to back and a 3/4 sheet of plywood on top fastened with wood screws.

 

[EagleI]

Rocket, I would really appreciate some guidance. I snatched a really good deal for a brand new tank. Its a half trapezoid shape, angled wall on the left side. The tank will only be viewable from the front as the tank will be embedded in a large cabinet.

84" long on the viewing side and 72" on the back wall, 24" front to back, 30" tall.
I designed the stand as if it were a standard rectangular tank, 84" x 24". Ive also included cross braces on the bottom frame to support a large sump.

A) Can I leave it as is or would you recommend putting a slanted cross brace directly underneath the angled wall of the tank?

B) Can I leave the front clear of legs like I've designed, given I've got doubled up 2x4s on the back side of the stand? The top and bottom frame will have 3/4" plywood tops. The upper ply sheet will have a cut-out in the un-used space on the left to run pipes and cables.

-Drawings-

 

[kkjjjmccann]

insulation foam

insulation foam

i talked with the tank manufacture he actually recommended not putting a sheet of insulation foam under the tank. His reasoning was if one side of tank was heavier with rocks, gravel...etc it would depresses the foam on that side more than the other thereby potentially twisting the tank or putting it in a bind?

 

[steeb]

Rocket, Thanks for everything you've provided to the community and your continued support.

I built a stand based on your plans a few months ago. The sump I bought the mfg didn't include the plastic rim as part of the dimensions. The only way to get the sump is would be to remove the bottom rail - the orange piece.

The tank is 135 gallon, weighs 250lbs empty. 50x25x25
I made the stand upper rails out of 2x6 and everything else 2x4
The wood is secured to each piece with pocket screws and wood glue for extra support.

Would it ruin the integrity of the stand to remove the bottom rail, and just place a vertical 2x4 or 2x6 in the future as a center brace after cutting to help distribute the load?

or would it be better to add an additional 2x4 next to the current one as I don't need to cut the entire length of the bottom rail. I could leave enough to have another 2x4 vertical on the end.

 

[agiacosa]

Hi,

Just bought a stand and tank from a member. As you can see from below picture, the tank sits with about a one inch overhang but is flush with the doors. It seems to have been done intentionally.

The internal frame of the tank does sit squarely with the stand top.

Do you think I will have a problem with the tank and this stand? Precious owner had it going for 3 years.

Thanks!

Art

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rhodophyta]

I posted this someone else but someone told me you guys might have a better answer.

I made a rookie mistake about a year ago when I first set my tank up. I bought a sump that fit the equipment I had. Now am wanting better equipment mainly a better skimmer. I am wanting to put a much larger sump tank under my stand so that in the future I don't have problems when it comes to replacing, upgrading, or adding equipment. Has anyone removed the the center port or cut the side out of a stand like this one? I have read many different opinions, I was hoping to hear from someone who has done it. My tank is 90 gallon 48x18x24.

The commercial stands don't do non-essential. The center brace is needed for something or they would not have bothered. Some are intended only to last past the warranty and use poor choices of material such as pressboard.

What about adding a door at one end or the other? Then you could slide the new sump in from the side.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Rocket, I would really appreciate some guidance. I snatched a really good deal for a brand new tank. Its a half trapezoid shape, angled wall on the left side. The tank will only be viewable from the front as the tank will be embedded in a large cabinet.

84" long on the viewing side and 72" on the back wall, 24" front to back, 30" tall.
I designed the stand as if it were a standard rectangular tank, 84" x 24". Ive also included cross braces on the bottom frame to support a large sump.

A) Can I leave it as is or would you recommend putting a slanted cross brace directly underneath the angled wall of the tank? I would, it would fully support the perimeter of the tank. That's important especially for an acrylic tank like yours.

B) Can I leave the front clear of legs like I've designed, given I've got doubled up 2x4s on the back side of the stand? The top and bottom frame will have 3/4" plywood tops. The upper ply sheet will have a cut-out in the un-used space on the left to run pipes and cables. The legs in the back do nothing for the board spanning the front and that will deflect almost 1/2" down given how you have it now. With that 84" span, you really need a leg somewhere in the front. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered but that would be the ideal location for it.

i talked with the tank manufacture he actually recommended not putting a sheet of insulation foam under the tank. His reasoning was if one side of tank was heavier with rocks, gravel...etc it would depresses the foam on that side more than the other thereby potentially twisting the tank or putting it in a bind?

That's why I check with them. Some of them understand that foam doesn't "self level" but squishes more the more out of level things become.

Rocket, Thanks for everything you've provided to the community and your continued support.

I built a stand based on your plans a few months ago. The sump I bought the mfg didn't include the plastic rim as part of the dimensions. The only way to get the sump is would be to remove the bottom rail - the orange piece.

The tank is 135 gallon, weighs 250lbs empty. 50x25x25
I made the stand upper rails out of 2x6 and everything else 2x4
The wood is secured to each piece with pocket screws and wood glue for extra support.

Would it ruin the integrity of the stand to remove the bottom rail, and just place a vertical 2x4 or 2x6 in the future as a center brace after cutting to help distribute the load?

or would it be better to add an additional 2x4 next to the current one as I don't need to cut the entire length of the bottom rail. I could leave enough to have another 2x4 vertical on the end.

The orange boards distribute the load into the floor and hold the legs in place. At 50" long and using a 2X6 upper, you don't need a center brace. I need a little more information (sump measurements vs stand measurements, PICTURES).

Hi,

Just bought a stand and tank from a member. As you can see from below picture, the tank sits with about a one inch overhang but is flush with the doors. It seems to have been done intentionally.

The internal frame of the tank does sit squarely with the stand top.

Do you think I will have a problem with the tank and this stand? Precious owner had it going for 3 years.

Thanks!

Art

I would check with the tank manufacturer. That looks kind of sketchy from my standpoint.

 

[EagleI]

The legs in the back do nothing for the board spanning the front and that will deflect almost 1/2" down given how you have it now. With that 84" span, you really need a leg somewhere in the front. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered but that would be the ideal location for it.

Okay, thank you. If I were to add two legs in the front, would the 2x6 upper frame be good to go?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Okay, thank you. If I were to add two legs in the front, would the 2x6 upper frame be good to go?

Yes, that would be fine.

 

[steeb]

That's why I check with them. Some of them understand that foam doesn't "self level" but squishes more the more out of level things become.



The orange boards distribute the load into the floor and hold the legs in place. At 50" long and using a 2X6 upper, you don't need a center brace. I need a little more information (sump measurements vs stand measurements, PICTURES).



I would check with the tank manufacturer. That looks kind of sketchy from my standpoint.

Heres a quick drawing displaying what Id like to do. After the sump is in place, I can put the 2x6 in the middle for support if required.

Sump measures 36" wide

 

[EagleI]

Did I read correctly that there is no need to have any vertical upright larger than a 2x4?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Heres a quick drawing displaying what Id like to do. After the sump is in place, I can put the 2x6 in the middle for support if required.
Sump measures 36" wide

Why do you have to cut that board out to get the sump in? I'm missing something. There is 45" between the uprights to fit a 36" sump. If you don't have enough vertical height to get it in, then you have a bigger problem because the stand isn't tall enough for a) the sump, and more importantly b) working IN the sump.

Did I read correctly that there is no need to have any vertical upright larger than a 2x4?

Correct.

 

[EagleI]

Continued from my OP...

I've updated the design based on your suggestions.

Since the tank will be skinned and have three doors in the front anyway, I went ahead and added two uprights in the front and one in the back to support the 2x6 in it's 84" span. I only use one upright in the back to leave enough space to slide a large sump into the stand from the back.

I've also added an angled 2x4 in the top frame to support the angled perimeter of the tank. I'll try and get it as close to the perimeter as possible without blocking any bulkheads from the overflow.

Do I have the go ahead to build?

 

[steeb]

Why do you have to cut that board out to get the sump in? I'm missing something. There is 45" between the uprights to fit a 36" sump. If you don't have enough vertical height to get it in, then you have a bigger problem because the stand isn't tall enough for a) the sump, and more importantly b) working IN the sump.

It won't fit inside the opening which is only 17". The only way to get it to fit is to cut the bottom support. If I need to work inside of the sump I will be able to slide it out of the opening. Is it structurally okay to cut the bottom support brace?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Continued from my OP...

I've updated the design based on your suggestions.

Since the tank will be skinned and have three doors in the front anyway, I went ahead and added two uprights in the front and one in the back to support the 2x6 in it's 84" span. I only use one upright in the back to leave enough space to slide a large sump into the stand from the back.

I've also added an angled 2x4 in the top frame to support the angled perimeter of the tank. I'll try and get it as close to the perimeter as possible without blocking any bulkheads from the overflow.

Do I have the go ahead to build?

It's not like I can stop you :crazy1:. That design does look quite good though. Good luck with the build.

It won't fit inside the opening which is only 17". The only way to get it to fit is to cut the bottom support. If I need to work inside of the sump I will be able to slide it out of the opening. Is it structurally okay to cut the bottom support brace?

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. You're stand is only 26" tall based on my calculations. My problem is simple: You can't slide a 200-300# sump. Even empty you are talking of a lot of weight plus you are fighting with all the connections to the display. I've never seen a "movable sump" that someone makes work. They are just too heavy to be practical to move all the time. Also, being that short you will barely be able to get the skimmer cup out much less be able to get the skimmer out of the sump in order to clean it. I think you are going to find it a nightmare to maintain that system because every time you try to work in the sand you're fighting with height problems.

My stand is 36" tall, which is 10" taller. My sump sits on top of the base so I have about 6" more room than you do. Despite that 6" extra, I STILL fight with head space above the sump.

I'm sorry to say but I think you need to seriously consider making a new, taller stand or find another place for the sump. Otherwise your system is going to suffer as you resist doing chores because of how much of a pain it is to work in the sump. I wish I had a better option for you.