DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[RocketEngineer]

How tall is your stand where the tank sits?

In other words, how high is the bottom of your tank from the floor?

My stand is 36" tall. My issue is the AmericanDJ power strips under the top edge of the stand. The 2" they take up is just enough to keep my skimmer cup with a Swabbie from clearing the top of the sump. I have to angle the cup to get it out which can be problematic. Otherwise its a good height.

This will be for a cichlid tank, so i will be using 2 fx6 canister filters.
book shelf section would actually be for storage/pictures/whatnots

AH, in that case using several center supports does allow you to go with all 2X4s. Without those supports, you would need larger lumber for the clear span. Good luck.

 

[cubsFAN]

I'm planning to build a stand for a 40 breeder. I'm hoping to use a single 2x4 for each corner. The stand will have 3/4 inch ply for the top and the sump area and skinned with 1x4 and 1x6 pine. I'll be using pocket holes to join everything. Will I be ok using single 2x4's for each corner?

 

[Salty150]

My stand is 36" tall. My issue is the AmericanDJ power strips under the top edge of the stand. The 2" they take up is just enough to keep my skimmer cup with a Swabbie from clearing the top of the sump. I have to angle the cup to get it out which can be problematic. Otherwise its a good height.

I am debating on whether to go with a 34" height or 36"...

I think 36" might be a little to high? Especially when looking at the aquarium while sitting on the couch?

 

[BrettDS]

My stand is 38" high. I did that because I installed the tank in the wall between two rooms and one had a chair rail moulding. The 38" stand allowed the tank to be placed above the moulding. I do like the height though. Most of the time I stand when I look into the tank and it's a great height for that. The couch is across the room and you can still see into the tank from the couch without a problem. It's also possible to pull up a chair and it doesn't seem too high for that either. The one thing I will say, though is that I have a 30" tall tank and on top of the 38 inch stand the top of the tank is nearly 6 feet off of the floor. Short of reaching up to put food in I need a ladder to do almost anything at all in the tank. With a shorter tank and a shorter stand you might be able to do more without needing a ladder

 

[Reef Mortician]

Rocket, I just scored a 75 gallon. I plan to build a giant stand for all my tanks. The 75 and 40 will go side by side on top. Are 2 x 6 good for an unsupported span of 7 ft?

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[Salty150]

Yeah, 36 should work!

Sorry, accidentally clicked the reply button instead of the edit button (to change my to to too) so had to put something here, lol.

 

[RocketEngineer]

I'm planning to build a stand for a 40 breeder. I'm hoping to use a single 2x4 for each corner. The stand will have 3/4 inch ply for the top and the sump area and skinned with 1x4 and 1x6 pine. I'll be using pocket holes to join everything. Will I be ok using single 2x4's for each corner?

If there is enough supports to keep the two and bottom frames from moving relative to each other, structurally its fine. If possible, have at least two of the legs be doubles forming an L. This shape is much better at resisting lateral motion and you really only need two doubles and two singles to get the job done.

Rocket, I just scored a 75 gallon. I plan to build a giant stand for all my tanks. The 75 and 40 will go side by side on top. Are 2 x 6 good for an unsupported span of 7 ft?

No, it would need to be bigger. I personally would have a leg where the two tanks touch as that will give both of them proper support with minimal deflection.

 

[Reef Mortician]

If there is enough supports to keep the two and bottom frames from moving relative to each other, structurally its fine. If possible, have at least two of the legs be doubles forming an L. This shape is much better at resisting lateral motion and you really only need two doubles and two singles to get the job done.



No, it would need to be bigger. I personally would have a leg where the two tanks touch as that will give both of them proper support with minimal deflection.

So then 2x4 will be enough if I support the corners that the two tanks meet.

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[cubsFAN]

If there is enough supports to keep the two and bottom frames from moving relative to each other, structurally its fine. If possible, have at least two of the legs be doubles forming an L. This shape is much better at resisting lateral motion and you really only need two doubles and two singles to get the job done.

Thanks. Gonna add in the two legs. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Reef Mortician]

So then 2x4 will be enough if I support the corners that the two tanks meet.

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So 2 x 8 then

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[BrettDS]

So it's been a bit more than a month from when I first built my stand until now when it has a tank on it and it's been totally finished. Here are a few pics from the process along with the finished product. There are more pics and details on my build thread here...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2563684

It's designed so that the canopy, the skin for the stand under the tank, and the piece on the right that covers the electronics are removable, so that any major work, including completely removing the sump, will be able to be done without obstruction.

 

[Meshmez]

Anyone see any issues with this design? it will be 5 feet long 36" tall and 30" wide. top rails as well as middle side uprights will be 2x6's, all other boards are 2x4. will be pocket drilled and plywood on the outside. The tank is 60"x24"x24" i designed it the way i did to give full support under the edges of the tank, but still have the external overflow go through the top and into the stand. also i will add some 2x4 supports across the top and bottom box front to back.

 

[Patrick Cox]

Yes, this is ideal.



That would be fine. If you backed the entire thing with plywood it would join the individuals together into a solid unit as well as give you a place to mount the RODI unit and maybe an eletrical box for a mixing pump plug/switch.

You know, you could just about get away with cutting all your boards at 21" because 21"- 3" = 18" between the legs from the front and 21" + 3" = 24" which is the length of your containers. Plus 21" legs will give you enough head room above the container to add salt without skinning knuckles. Just a thought.

RocketEngineer,
I have started working on my mixing station. I am stacking tables per the design below. Only difference is that my lower legs are 11" and my middle legs are 24".

My question is - what thickness of plywood should I use for the tops? I assume 1/2' or 3/4" but am not sure which. Each shelf will need to carry up to about 135 pounds. Also, if I back it with plywood, what thickness would you recommend?

Thanks!

 

[RocketEngineer]

Anyone see any issues with this design? it will be 5 feet long 36" tall and 30" wide. top rails as well as middle side uprights will be 2x6's, all other boards are 2x4. will be pocket drilled and plywood on the outside. The tank is 60"x24"x24" i designed it the way i did to give full support under the edges of the tank, but still have the external overflow go through the top and into the stand. also i will add some 2x4 supports across the top and bottom box front to back.

You don't need 2X6 legs. Also, if you make the yellow boards run the full front-to-back distance, the three side-to-side boards can all be cut the same length. Beyond that, its similar to what I did for the stand for my home display.

RocketEngineer,
I have started working on my mixing station. I am stacking tables per the design below. Only difference is that my lower legs are 11" and my middle legs are 24".

My question is - what thickness of plywood should I use for the tops? I assume 1/2' or 3/4" but am not sure which. Each shelf will need to carry up to about 135 pounds. Also, if I back it with plywood, what thickness would you recommend?

Thanks!

I would make the shelves 3/4" myself. That gives the containers the most support and you can cover both selves from a single 2'X4' piece. The back I would just do 1/2" as it s mostly for keeping things in place verses supporting something.

 

[Salty150]

What kind/type of wood would you use if you wanted a very smooth kitchen cabinet type painted look?

It seems that even if you use sanded plywood - if still doesn't look like painted kitchen cabinets.

 

[Meshmez]

You don't need 2X6 legs. Also, if you make the yellow boards run the full front-to-back distance, the three side-to-side boards can all be cut the same length. Beyond that, its similar to what I did for the stand for my home display.

the only 2x6 legs are the middle sides, i just did that to give extra support to the side rails since the last little bit is only supported by screws (though shouldnt have any real weight on it.)

There are 2 reasons i didnt run the yellow boards full length. 1: its a lot easier to pocket drill a 30" board than a 60" board with the jig i have though i guess i will still have to do it for the one in the middle. 2: with the legs oriented the way i have them, on the front at least, the top piece would tie into both legs. also i figured having 5" of support on the end of the long piece would be better than 3.5", though again, i guess the center rail kinda messes that up..

 

[JCE1980]

Looking for advice on material and construction on a stand for a new to me aquarium.
Aquarium dimensions are 11'6"×22"w42"t. I was planning on using double 2×6 top and bottom
but curious if I can use a single 2×6 rim with perpendicular blocks 16" oc. I would like to space the legs in the center enough to get a 48" x18"sump. I can skin the back for now but would like to have everything running before I complete the ttrim on the front. Also, what size plywood for the top 3/4 or 1/2?

 

[Meshmez]

ok, how the heck do you guys get the top and bottom frame together flat... i can get them square, but no matter what, when i put them on a flat surface they wobble...

 

[BrettDS]

ok, how the heck do you guys get the top and bottom frame together flat... i can get them square, but no matter what, when i put them on a flat surface they wobble...

It helps if you have a flat surface to assemble them on... Lay it all out on the flat surface and assemble it there. Also, check to make sure the lumber you are using isn't warped at all. Put one piece on your flat surface and see if it wobbles... Turn it over and check the other side as well.

 

[Meshmez]

It helps if you have a flat surface to assemble them on... Lay it all out on the flat surface and assemble it there. Also, check to make sure the lumber you are using isn't warped at all. Put one piece on your flat surface and see if it wobbles... Turn it over and check the other side as well.

ive tried, the boards themselves are fine but once they are together they are never completely flat. :headwalls: i dont remember it being this big of a problem last time i built a stand....