DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[TheFishMan65]

Rocket, thanks for all your help. I am trying to design with out an external covering so every support beam will show. That is why I as thinking 4x4 in th corner (it looks nicer than two 2x4 in my opinion eitehr elled or screwed together). So do you have any suggestion that might look nicer? I don't suppose two 2x4 cut down the length at a 45 degree (so it looks like a 4x4 if it is a nice cut) is strong enough. Thanks again.

 

[Lazylivin]

I just stumbled across this thread and I had just completed my stand. No water in the tank yet. Wondering if the span is to long without support. The tank is a 125g which is 6 foot. I can add a 2x4 in the middle between the doors and same in the back if need be. It is only skinned in 1/4" oak ply.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Lazy, If you read this then you know I am no expert, but yes add the center brace. From what I read a 2x4 will have too much deflection across the 6 feet (2x6 would have worked). Great looking stand!

 

[Lazylivin]

Thanks fishman I will add a 2x4

 

[E.intheC]

..just want to thank the OP (Rocket Engineer) for adding this template. Very helpful.

 

[seafishinmn]

Great Thread. I made my stand based on this design for a 75 gallon tank. Thank you Rocket Engineer and all the other members who contributed to this post.
But now,I would like to make a functional canopy that would house my Tek 48" x 6 light.
In looking back thru some of the posted pics, love the appearance of some of the canopies - some have doors, some have (I think) piano bench type hinges... but how is everyone mounting their lights within the canopy? I'd like to be able to raise or lower the light within the canopy a few inches if necessary, be able to access the interior of the tank from the top etc. How tall should I make the canopy and are all these canopies fully enclosed? Maybe I should ask if they actually have a top "over" the light or rather just a rectangle frame sitting on the top of the tank?
You all have great ideas... I'm looking for some. Thanks in advance for any contributions.

 

[kv2wr1]

Could I use these braces (or similar) for extra support instead of screwing the ends to sides of 2x4's? I used use these when I built a bearded dragon enclosure (when I kept bearded dragons) and they worked very well.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Yes, BUT two issue. Bearded Dragons don't drink salt water. Salt water splash is going to be really hard on that. 2) You need some pretty hefty ones IMO, if they are two small I would worry about them bending if the stand is moved.

 

[msp2673]

I want to build a stand using the template for a future 120g 48x48x24. My current tank is a 75g 48x18x21. What modifications, if any, should be done to the original plans so that both the 75g and the future 120g will be safely supported? Extra crossbraces?

 

[TheFishMan65]

I would add an extra cross brace and an extra vertical post in the ends.

 

[Canoe]

...

I may have missed someone else catching this, but to me it looks dangerously like the four corner glue/screw-to verticals go all the way from the top to the floor, which would result in their carrying some load instead of leaving all load for the vertical pieces that sit on top of the lower rails?

 

[cec09]

whats the best design for building a stand for a 24x24x18 "cube"? 2x4s would be way overkill so was thinkin 1x4s or even just 3/4 ply. whats everyones opinions? any pics would be great also.
thanks
john

 

[SuperNemo]

hi, looking into making a stand for a standard 125 (72x18). I'm wondering if i can use all 2x4s with a center brace.

Has anyone done this before.

 

[TheFishMan65]

cec09, no expert but when I mentioned 1x4 someone said they would bend. Plywood is OK or so I understand.

Super, The way I understand it if you have to brace at least every 4 feet with a 2x4 top rail. So I think that plan is fine.

 

[snaza]

Hi Guys,

Cut my wood yesterday and going to build on the weekend. Because to doorway aren't wide enough to fit the stand through built I have to build it in parts. I was going to build it for a test then pull the legs off, move it upstairs, then put it back together. The didn't want to glue it because i may have to pull it apart again. do i need to glue it for strength? It wont have an attached skin either (using 2pac magnet panels). the stand is 60 x 32. i was planing on putting 1/2 inch ply top and bottom

thanks

Aaron

 

[spllbnd2]

whats the best design for building a stand for a 24x24x18 "cube"? 2x4s would be way overkill so was thinkin 1x4s or even just 3/4 ply. whats everyones opinions? any pics would be great also.
thanks
john

Try and find some 2x3's as those will be more than enough. I would not do 1x4's for any stand, unless it is for a very small nano sized tank. I did a 20L last year with 2x3's and skinned it with 1/4" Birch Ply and it is holding up great.

 

[cec09]

so if i find 2x3s ill go with that. do the edges of the tank have to sit on the frame of the stand? or can the stand be wider than the tank and the tank sit on say 3/4" ply? the tank is going to be a 45 gal cube. the reason im asking is that the display is 24x24. i want the stand to fit two 29gal underneath. tht would mean that the stand would have to be about 25x25 on the inside allowing the sumps to be removed out the sides. i hope you guys understand my question i tend to ramble. lol
thanks
john

 

[kv2wr1]

Are any of you using any special water resistant coating on your stands inside the frame work and/or on the outside?

I'm in the process of building a stand for a 40 gallon breeder with a 20 gallon long sump underneath. I'm going to have the back open and also have a dehumidifier in my basement. I just wanted to see what everyone is doing for sealing the wood studs and plywood.

Could I use a stain followed by a clear coat or could I use something like Thompson's water seal on the wood? Would any of these chemicals leech out any toxins into the air that would be harmful to my fish and corals after the stand has completely dried?


Thanks,
Eric

 

[spllbnd2]

so if i find 2x3s ill go with that. do the edges of the tank have to sit on the frame of the stand? or can the stand be wider than the tank and the tank sit on say 3/4" ply? the tank is going to be a 45 gal cube. the reason im asking is that the display is 24x24. i want the stand to fit two 29gal underneath. tht would mean that the stand would have to be about 25x25 on the inside allowing the sumps to be removed out the sides. i hope you guys understand my question i tend to ramble. lol
thanks
john

You will need to have the rime of the tank sitting on the 2x's. This is the way the frame member was designed to hold the tank. This way the 2x's carry the load as evenly as possible to the floor. If you put the stand on the 3/4" ply, then the 2x's are not doing anything for load and all your load will be held up with the 3/4" ply.

 

[spllbnd2]

Are any of you using any special water resistant coating on your stands inside the frame work and/or on the outside?

I'm in the process of building a stand for a 40 gallon breeder with a 20 gallon long sump underneath. I'm going to have the back open and also have a dehumidifier in my basement. I just wanted to see what everyone is doing for sealing the wood studs and plywood.

Could I use a stain followed by a clear coat or could I use something like Thompson's water seal on the wood? Would any of these chemicals leech out any toxins into the air that would be harmful to my fish and corals after the stand has completely dried?


Thanks,
Eric

I use a combination of wood sealer and marine boat paint for the inside of the stands and canopies. And for the outside I've done stains followed by a sealer, such as a poly or you can always paint it on the outside as well.