DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[MGM_]

You need to double up the front rail. However you are going to have a weight distribution problem with the 2 x 4 rail on the bottom unless you are sitting on concrete. Wood is famous for creep. It may not fail but the top rail will bow over time. I would strongly suggest a front vertical support. Maybe put a side entry for your sump? This will also help weight distribution to your bottom rail.

Also with large sump you will need to take care of heat humidity you will get inside the stand. Even with open back it will be hot and very humid.

Oops didn't notice your bottom rail was set flat side.. This will def be a major issue if not set on solid concrete floor or by some miracle it lands directly on a floor joice.. Even with a center support this bottom rail is not going to transfer much load.

 

[MGM_]

Pprice..Is your bottom rail bowed or just top rail?? If bottom rail is bowed that could be the crux of your problem? I am very shocked you are getting that much sag? Adding a sister top rail will increase strength. You must remove the weight before adding a sister or even to add a center post. You must unload the rail before attempting to strengthen it.

 

[funnyguyMI]

Well, I finally got my stand built Here are the pics/etc..

Stand BUILD! (framing):
So, first step.. Cut all the wood to length. I took my time and tried to make sure everything was the same length.

Then, drill pocket screw holes for all of the "legs". This was my first time working with pocket screws, and I had to buy the jig for this project, which was like $100. But, I gotta say, they are SO easy to use, and really make a good joint. Well worth the investment!

Then, clamp and screw together...

First, I built each side separately:

Then, I put the top 3/4" piece on some saw horses to use as a make-shift workbench and started screwing the assembled sides together:

Then add the supports for the top (note, the "top" is at the bottom in this next pic):

Then, I put the 1/2" plywood into the frame for the bottom shelf and then attached the horizontal supports for the bottom as well as some 1x1 perimeter pieces to support the bottom shelf. I did it this way so I could put the bottom shelf in as one sheet, rather than trying to cut out holes and cut it down to wiggle it in later. Sorry for the lousy pic..

Then, I flipped the stand over and pocket-hole screwed the middle supports in:

Then, I glued and nailed the top down and put a coke can in the shot for a size reference I couldn't believe how big this thing turned out to be!! :O

 

[funnyguyMI]

Stand BUILD! (Trim):

Then, I skinned the framing with 1/4" plywood. I used birch, and after it was skinned, I seriously considered not adding on all the trim I had been planning. I thought it looked really good (I am however probably a little biased ).

I put on one piece of skin on the two sides and routed it flush with the top of the stand. Then, I put on another piece and routed it ~2" above the top of the stand.

The reason for the first layer to be level with the stand was in case the tank was built slightly larger than 72".. Wiggle room

Then, I skinned the front, also routed flush with ~2" above the top. THen, I routed out all of the holes for the doors.

Skinned:

A co-worker convinced me to add the trim, and I'm really glad he did!

I started with a 1x4 for the top. I glued it and screwed it through the 1/4" plywood skin:

Then, I flipped the stand on its back and added a 1x2.5" to the bottom:

 

[funnyguyMI]

Stand BUILD! (Trim cont'd):

Then, I added some victorian trim. The trim was 3/4" wide, the same as the top and bottom trim. However, I was concerned about the trim not fitting exactly flush and wanted more detail in the profile. So, I used a table saw to trim the width down so that it was recessed between the top and bottom trim. I also mitered the edges. It was extra work, but I was really happy with the results:

Then, I put on the top "shelf" molding. I routed the edge to give it some detail. I did it on a less than stellar router table. It was a little tricky getting some of the wavy parts out, but I'm happy with the results:

And, to top it off.. I put some crown molding between the top "shelf" and the 1x4 on the sides/front. Couldn't believe how great it looked!!

Here's a shot of the different layers of wood on top of the framing to make up the skin and trim:

 

[funnyguyMI]

Stand BUILD! (Finishing):

So, I get this beautiful stand all put together, and I really couldn't have been more proud of how it came out. So, I research how to properly stain it and all that. I buy the wood conditioner because I was using soft, porous wood (pine) and apply the conditioner and then the stain.

And, it all goes wrong. Big time. The stain blotched horribly.. I was devastated...

I had originally wanted it black anyway though, right?

So, I picked up some primer and paint from sherwin williams and got back to work.

After the paint and primer, I was happy with the results:

Also, after painting the stand, I put on two coats of Minwax wipe-on polyurethane. I highly recommend this stuff. It went on real easy with no drips and has a hard finish that should hold up for quite a while..

 

[reefjunkie42]

pics of my stand what do you guys think? I had a few major issues with wood splitting..do you think this will effect the integrity of this stand?

 

[MGM_]

Looks like only the inside nailers were split? This would not be a concern. Now if the vertical supports that are at the corners flush with the top and bottom rail then that would be a little bit of a concern.

 

[MGM_]

Funnyguy.. Awesome stand! How tall is it?

 

[reefjunkie42]

no that is just a dark part of the wood. the railer looks split in the picture but isn't the wood split a little when i put the screws in not a ton , i think either the wood was dry or something like that. because it only split a little when screwing the boxes together. but i used extra screws to compensate.

funnnyguyMI -nice stand! if im not mistaken stain is put on with a rag. anyway the stand looks great. did you use a clear coat? great job

 

[Pprice01]

Wow funny guy - nice work. I am looking forward to finishing the trim on my stand.

I inserted a center post to eliminate the sag that I was experiencing, but now I see that the bottom trim of the tank is not flat. I put a straight edge against it and it is a little wavy. Is this normal? Will it settle once it's full of water?

Now that the sag is gone I'm quite surprised by the non-flat plastic trim.

Anyone seen this before?

 

[reefjunkie42]

how many people use center posts for acrylic tanks?

 

[canesfan44]

Nice build. Eventually, I will get a tank with similar dimensions, and I hope to build close to as nice a stand that you have.

 

[killarsox]

I'm in the process of upgrading my tank, and I'd like to make my own stand this time. The tank is going to be a 75g Rimless. 48x18x20. I'm just wondering if there's anything that I have to do different with my stand because the tank is rimless, or can i just follow a design from on here of a regular tank? Should I be putting a sheet of plywood all the way under my stand where it will actually sit on the floor? And what is best method for joing the 2x4's at the corner? Thank You in advance.

 

[MGM_]

Killar I believe others have been suggesting entire flat surface top with a layer of foam for the rimless (acrylic or glass)

 

[Editour2]

Here is a link to my stand....pics have not been updated in a few months but it shows the stand. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1947514&highlight=fish+room
Question: I used 2 x 8's for the top of the stand, the main display is a 215 gallon tank. I am working on plumbing and want to feed a refugium and frag tank on the opposite side of the room with one of the drains from this tank. Would it weaken the stand frame if I drilled a 1.25" hole through one of the sides? I would prefer to go through the frame rather than running the pvc below the frame so I don't loose 7" height but of course I don't want to loose the integrity of the stand.

 

[TheFishMan65]

DISCALIMER: NOT A STRUCTURAL ENGINEER

Looks like a 6 foot wide stand. If so then only a 2x6 would have been needed according to the OP. To me that means that a 1.25 hole could be drilled because it would still be larger than a 2x6. The sides are even shorter so safer still. Since you want the height I am guessing you would prefer to drill at the top. I don't know how that affect things.

But if could add a leg beneath the hole I would feel comfortable doing that for my tank.

 

[Editour2]

I'm not currently home so I'm not 100% sure if I used the 2x6 or 2x8's. The whole top frame is made out of this. It is a 6' stand. Either way I have either the 6" or 8" to contend with in dropping the 1" pvc for the feed (if I don't drill the 1.25" hole through the stand), it's about 1.5" thick. Just want to make sure.....I don't want to weaken the stand.

 

[RonMidtownStomp]

Why the concern about dropping it under the stand? I wouldn't drill a hole in one of the main structural elements, especially since they look like 2x6's and not 2x8's to me.

I do have an engineering degree, but not that type.

 

[Editour2]

I'll measure tonight......the reason for not wanting to drop below the 2x6 is because I am trying to gravity feed a frag tank which will be located on top of a refugium. I then want the refugium to gravity feed back to the sump. In order to do this, without the use of a pump, I have to take into consideration height and I think the 3 or 4 inches I could save by not going under the tank stand support might be needed. Of course I will NOT do this if it will effect the strength of the stand, (thus the question).