DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[613reefguy]

I just wanted to offer my 2 cents on a quick subject. When staining your stands, it is not neccessary to fill your nail holes ahead of time. Having to spend extra time in one area with over sanding can cause an inconsistant shadowing affect on your wood. Simply get the wood to your standards and stain it. When your first coat of polyeurathane dries, this would be the time that you want to fill your nail holes with the appropriate minwax putty. You can wipe off the excess with a damp cloth, and the rest will be removed when you sand between coats.

I have been sanding hardwood floors for 10 years, so this is just my tip. It may work for you it may not. But I am very confident it will save you time and produce the same end result.....but most of the time even better.

I just wanted to add some tips, since people have been very helpful with me so far.

 

[pmsmith2032]

55 Gallon Stand Questions

55 Gallon Stand Questions

I am brand new to this site and have a couple of questions. I read the first 20 or so pages of the original thread on this topic, but haven't run across the answers to my questions. Anyway, they are:

1. Is there an issue if I am designing the stand frame as the original, but have made the frame 1" wider on all four sides (the tank will be approximately 48" long by 13" wide and the stand is 50" by 15")? I have added two 12" cross beams to the top for added support, and the top will be cover with 1/2" oak plywood. The reson I'm asking is because I have not bought a tank yet, and am just going off standard 55 gallon tank dimesnions. I added 1" on each side just in case the tank I buy is slightly larger than standard.

2. Is 32" a good height for a 55 gallon tank? It may be sitting on carpet/pad (not sure where we're putting the tank yet), so I want it as stable as possible. I've contemplated adding another 2x4 frame around the base to give it added stability, but not sure if this is a good idea.

3. Is there any issues with adding a 2x4 upright from the botttom of the frame to the top, half way down the length? I know it isn't neceassary for strength, but I think it would make it easier to add the plywood skin between the two front doors.

Thanks in advance!

 

[613reefguy]

Because I havent yet mastered this build the only thing I can answer would be #3

I dont see an issue with adding them half way down, other than the fact that you will limit yourself to space. You may have a tough time getting your sump down below, and working on it with the 4"'s in the way. I do not plan on putting that piece on mine. Some people fake it by adding a ripped sheet of plywood to the back of one of the doors. This means having to open them in a specific order, but it does the job from what I gather, and its not the first time I have seen it done.

I plan on drilling two small holes, one into the inside of my top frame, and one below on my sump floor. I am then going to insert something similar to a T-nut. Essentially this will allow me to just add a small strip of plywood, but it will be bolted in to place. This will allow me to remove it should I have to do work down below. You would have to add a small piece on the part that is attached to the sump floor in order to give you a place for the bolt to go through. Seems logical and simple to me. Doesnt require any structure work....Simply cosmetic work at the end, which isnt very difficult.

 

[Pprice01]

I got mine painted and put in place. One the plumbing is done I'll be able to install the trim and the doors. I am planning on building them to match the bookcase color.

 

[liz62]

Need a quick answer -- The front of my stand currently has a 39" span in the middle for doors - I have doubled on 2x4's on either side of the opening.

Will this work or do I need more vertical's in the front? Is the opening too big of a span? FYI: the stand is 8ft long and 22" wide.

See the pics. below.

 

[David - Miami]

Pprice01 - looks great! Keep us posted.

 

[TheFishMan65]

liz, You are good.

According to the OP a 2x4 can span 41 inches (48 - 2 * 3.5).

 

[liz62]

liz, You are good.

According to the OP a 2x4 can span 41 inches (48 - 2 * 3.5).

I didn't find this thread until it was really too late - I built the entire stand out of 2x4's - I did build it just like the OP has suggested but the top rails are 2x4's.

Will I be ok? I have 3 additional vertical 2x4's along the back. I also added hangers and corner L brackets top and bottom.
Tank is 96Lx20Wx18H.

See pics below

 

[TheFishMan65]

Assuming the last picture is mid build and the same stand, I see nothing wrong. Actually the double 2x4 in the front only need to be one. If they are easy to remove you might consider that so you have wider end doors (assumes 4 doors across the front).

Also is this glass or acrylic? I don't know a lot about acrylic, but if it is I would add the missing joist hangers. Not sure it is required, but if it were my build I would feel better.

 

[liz62]

Assuming the last picture is mid build and the same stand, I see nothing wrong. Actually the double 2x4 in the front only need to be one. If they are easy to remove you might consider that so you have wider end doors (assumes 4 doors across the front).

Also is this glass or acrylic? I don't know a lot about acrylic, but if it is I would add the missing joist hangers. Not sure it is required, but if it were my build I would feel better.

The first pic. is the stand 95% built - I just have to add 1/2" ply to the top and a few more hangers. The tank is 1/2" thick glass.
I will also be skinning it with 1/4" wood.

Is there anything else I need to do or add? Am I good to go then?

 

[TheFishMan65]

If it is glass with a frame, then I don't believe you need the joist hangers.

 

[liz62]

If it is glass with a frame, then I don't believe you need the joist hangers.

I had them so I added - thought it wouldn't hurt.

So do think I am done and can now paint it?

 

[TheFishMan65]

I would say paint away.

 

[liz62]

Excellent!!! Thanks!

 

[xaos]

Quick question, pretty sure I know the answer, but I figured it's best to double check and be absolutely sure before I start cutting things.

Building a stand for a 90 (48x18 footprint), that means 2x4's all around, yes? And the real question, it's safe to eliminate the extra 2x4 legs on the short side of the tank, as well as the screw strip, correct? I'm planning on pocket screws for at least that portion of the assembly, and probably skinning it with 1/2" plywood.

I ask because I'm going to run a BeanAnimal-style overflow off the end of the tank, and I'd like to use as big a tank as possible for a sump. If I can skip those extra 2x4s on the end, I can slide a 55 under the stand, and hang it out enough that the overflows are a straight drop into the sump. The idea of minimal plumbing and flow restriction attracts me, obviously

I hate asking probably obvious questions, but after recently tearing down the same tank due to DIY stand issues, I figured it'd be best to double-check and make sure this time.

 

[TheFishMan65]

The end 2x4 must be supported by legs. The screw strip is not needed. 8 inches minus 2 3.5 inch 2x4 leaves 11 inches. What is the size of a 55. Could you make it one inch deeper (13 inches) and have 12 for the side opening.

 

[xaos]

I'd planned to make it 19" deep, total, since the tank is something like 18.5" wide including the frame. Aqueon's site says 48x13x20 for a 55, and probably add .25" for the frame, also...looks like the perfecto tanks are the same dimensions.

Would adding a 1x4 on each corner offer sufficient support? Doing that would give me plenty of space to slide a 13" wide tank inside...1.5+.75=2.25 x2 = 4.5, 19-4.5 = 14.5...I suppose it'd even work (space-wise) if I ripped a 2x4 down to 1" true width instead of the 3/4ths of a store-bought 1x4.

Alternately, I could shorten the front board, and have the end piece cover the whole length of the tank end, then use a 2x6 for the leg on that end. I don't know how structurally sound that would be, however (which, incidentally, is why I'm here ).

 

[pgibson]

Here is my 36" x 18" x 32" DIY stand.

 

[xaos]

I'd planned to make it 19" deep, total, since the tank is something like 18.5" wide including the frame. Aqueon's site says 48x13x20 for a 55, and probably add .25" for the frame, also...looks like the perfecto tanks are the same dimensions.

Would adding a 1x4 on each corner offer sufficient support? Doing that would give me plenty of space to slide a 13" wide tank inside...1.5+.75=2.25 x2 = 4.5, 19-4.5 = 14.5...I suppose it'd even work (space-wise) if I ripped a 2x4 down to 1" true width instead of the 3/4ths of a store-bought 1x4.

Alternately, I could shorten the front board, and have the end piece cover the whole length of the tank end, then use a 2x6 for the leg on that end. I don't know how structurally sound that would be, however (which, incidentally, is why I'm here ).

In addition to the above (dang the edit time limit), here's why I thought it would be okay to eliminate those two leg pieces, from RocketEngineer's original design post on page 1 of this thread:

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

color mine for emphasis. Am I reading that wrong, or can I safely (and that's the important part) do what I want to do and have the space to slide a 13" wide tank through the end of the stand?

 

[TheFishMan65]

Well apparently my last post go eaten. I think you can safely remove them. A while back I posted that a 4 foot tank only needs to be supported by the ends. So I would think if the front at back are solid you would also be alright, but you might want to check with the tank manufacturer.

The big thing is that each member of the top frame must be supported by a leg (or portion of).