reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
hey guys I am building a 60x30x24 stand for an acrylic tank and i don't know if i need 2x4's or 2x6's. also do i need to use joist hangers? and what kind of screws holding it all together?. thanks guys.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
TheFishMan65
New member
For the 60 inch span you will need 2x6 UNLESS you have a middle support then you can used 2x4. Since it is acrylic I would do cross support every 12-18 inches with joist hangers. Screws don't hold it together everything rest on another beam. If it was perfectly cut you could just stack it up (except the cross braces) and it would hold the tank. If you use screwplates probably 2 1/2 inch screws or use pock screws. I would glue it as well.
reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
hey guys i need a bit of help here i am building a stand for a custom acrylic tank that is 60x30x24 and the stand frame is built and is 60x30 36. my question is how can i make this stand work with overflows. here is a pic of the tank from the tank builder
please respond here or PM me with any suggestions. rocket -your always welcome to chime in as i hope you do! i know you are the OP and would like to hear your input
reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
i was thinking of making the stand a half inch bigger on the L and W to give room for the bulkheads. the problem is the screw strip is obstructing the returns and overflow
TheFishMan65
New member
Use pocket screw - no screw strip needed. You need plywood so use 3/4 and use lots of cross supports.
Logzor
New member
I originally posted this on my local reef club forum but figured I should post it here too. Maybe it will help someone out with similar challenges...still need to paint this..
I designed the stand similar to the ELOS stands by utilizing full-frame door and panels without any trim work or extra ornamentation. I really like the clean / modern look and I think it will match the rimless tank really well. The main difference between this stand and the ELOS stands is that it will have an edge at the perimeter, I didn't want to risk hanging the tank over the front edge without support like they do. I am planning to paint the stand using the same technique I used on the last stand I built, using a high or semi gloss white oil paint (I used black last time) and using wet/dry sandpaper (600-800 grit) between layers to achieve an ultra-smooth finish.
I will be adding a small electrical panel inside the stand, this will house my battery backup, outlets, controllers, etc. It will also keep this equipment separated from the sump, keeping risk of splashing to a minimum.
I designed the stand similar to the ELOS stands by utilizing full-frame door and panels without any trim work or extra ornamentation. I really like the clean / modern look and I think it will match the rimless tank really well. The main difference between this stand and the ELOS stands is that it will have an edge at the perimeter, I didn't want to risk hanging the tank over the front edge without support like they do. I am planning to paint the stand using the same technique I used on the last stand I built, using a high or semi gloss white oil paint (I used black last time) and using wet/dry sandpaper (600-800 grit) between layers to achieve an ultra-smooth finish.
I will be adding a small electrical panel inside the stand, this will house my battery backup, outlets, controllers, etc. It will also keep this equipment separated from the sump, keeping risk of splashing to a minimum.
reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
i was using deck screws and i was going to use plenty of cross supports also gonna skin it with 3/4 inch playwood
reefjunkie42
Wrasse junkie
logzer nice stand BTW
Logzor
New member
Thanks! I appreciated the complement. It took me awhile to get everything right on this stand, since I was using the full-frame panels without any trim everything had to be perfect...
I'll post and update when I finish the painting, perhaps under the "fancy tank stand" thread.
TheFishMan65
New member
RW you can't use deck screws in a pocket hole it will split the wood. Logzor used pocked screws you pre drill the hole and it flat on the bottom. The deck screws are angled. Pocket hole screws are flat.
Oak Stand?
Oak Stand?
I am building my stand completely out of Oak wood. it is 48" long and 30" wide and will be for a 150 gallon glass tank. Does anyone know if using oak wood makes a huge difference in structural strength and support? I don't want to use a center brace so that's why I'm asking...thanks!
Oak Stand?
I am building my stand completely out of Oak wood. it is 48" long and 30" wide and will be for a 150 gallon glass tank. Does anyone know if using oak wood makes a huge difference in structural strength and support? I don't want to use a center brace so that's why I'm asking...thanks!
TheFishMan65
New member
Are they 2x4s? Or is it oak plywood? I am pretty sure Oak is stronger than pine.
shrimphead
New member
does anyone know how much weight a breeze block wall can handle if mounting wall brackets to it so the weight of the aquarium is on the wall brackets and the wall not the floor. (obviously you'd need wall brackets that can handle the weight) or do you think using wall brackets is a bad idea?
TheFishMan65
New member
kmost if you are using 2x6 for the top frame and 2x4 for legs and bottom frame in oak you should fine.
Harpo dimensions please.
Harpo dimensions please.
Hello Everyone,
I built to the spec described at the beginning of the thread, as you can see in my earlier posted pictures - but even though I used a 2x8 frame across the top, the center of it has begun to sag.
It looks like I will have to put in a removable center post. I'll just screw it in (pocket screws) without glue so that it will keep it held in place but will be removable in the event I need to get something large in/out of the stand.
I was very surprised, especially since I topped it with 3/4" of hardwood plywood too. Oh well. I just stuck 12 sheets of paper between the center-bottom of the tank and the stand.
I'm quite bummed about it.
Keep a close eye on your stands everyone!
I built to the spec described at the beginning of the thread, as you can see in my earlier posted pictures - but even though I used a 2x8 frame across the top, the center of it has begun to sag.
It looks like I will have to put in a removable center post. I'll just screw it in (pocket screws) without glue so that it will keep it held in place but will be removable in the event I need to get something large in/out of the stand.I was very surprised, especially since I topped it with 3/4" of hardwood plywood too. Oh well. I just stuck 12 sheets of paper between the center-bottom of the tank and the stand.
I'm quite bummed about it.
Keep a close eye on your stands everyone!
Hagisan
Preparing to move on...
Stand mod questions
Stand mod questions
The stand for my build was 42" tall so I broke it down and cut 7" off the legs and reassembled it w/o the front center brace and left the back one.
What more will I need to do to insure the stand will handle the weight of the 84x24x24 without the center brace please?
TIA
Bradley
Stand mod questions
The stand for my build was 42" tall so I broke it down and cut 7" off the legs and reassembled it w/o the front center brace and left the back one.
What more will I need to do to insure the stand will handle the weight of the 84x24x24 without the center brace please?
TIA
Bradley
RonMidtownStomp
You can edit this?
Bradley, I'd say skin it in 1/2" plywood that becomes part of the structural support. I'm thinking especially across the back.
RonMidtownStomp
You can edit this?
What's the plan that means that you cannot have a center brace in the front? You could potentially make it removable, but after tank weight it might no longer be removable.
