Just to double check.. I am building a stand for a dsa 70g. It is 36x18x25. From what I understand, 2x4s all the way around will work and I won't need any support beams.
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I am going to make a stand for a 40 breeder. The dimensions are 36"x18"x16". I would like to build the stand 42"x21"x36" so i have some extra room in the stand. Are joist hangers on the cross braces where the tank would sit be enough. What thickness of plywood should I use and what kind of screws or nails do I need to attach it to the frame.
Question on plywood top. I planed down my top rails as best I could and the tank was sitting pretty flush but still not perfect(small gaps on one side). I put on a plywood top and all the corners and sides are flush except for in the middle of one side. Will the plywood compress when water is in it? It is going to be about 2500 lbs. when filled. I have maybe 1/32 of an inch, probably less gap. It is hard to keep taking the tank off the stand and messing with it, it weighs 600 lbs.
nctinter,
What size tank? Glass or Acrylic? Plastic trim? Most tanks can take small gaps with ease. For a gap that small, consider doing a tap water wet test and see if the gap closes. If it does, you will be fine.
Hey Rocket. It is a 265G Glass tank(84x24). It has plastic trim. It is a Perfecto tank and has an extra large trim on the bottom, don't know if this matters. I think it has a regular plastic trim and then this bigger trim piece over the top of it.
Thanks Rocket for the help. This is a great thread
Sorry if this has been covered but after the first 41 pages I just cant read anymore.
Im setting up a 240 thats 8x2x2. I would like to make the stand with no center support in the front. I saw a while back that a doubled 2x10 was recommended. What is the best way of doubling them up seeing as that the corner 2x4s are single thickness?
Edit- Is it a bad idea to use nails instead of screws?
Well my $0.02 is the following:
- Can you use a 2x12? You would not need to double it.
- I would also use glue and then I don't think it matters if you screws or nails. Just nails I would worry about the board pulling apart.
- I would use a 2x6 and a 2x4 for the corner. The 2x6 is the corner under both front beams and 3 inches under the side. The 2x4 parallel to the 2x6 under both front beams.
I am not a structural engineer, but I have followed this thread (all the breaks).
I will be skinning out my stand after we get back form the OU/ FSU game in two weeks. I have the frame done, thanks Rocket. I want to give it an elegant top to place the tank. The frame is spot on level, what are your thoughts on a granite top on the stand. I am looking at a granite thickness of .5 to.75 inches. Thanks for your consideration.
If I have the formula right it will have about a 1/10 inch deflection (you still double checking me rocket?) which is less than the 1/8 the rocket recommends. Also according to the OP 2x6 is fine. So everything sounds good.
I am planning on making a stand. I have a 90g with corner overflow. My problem is if i use 2x4's, i will not have enough room for the bulkheads and the plumbing.
Anyone have an idea or can i use a different wood? I want the stand to be sturdy enough that even an elephant can stand on it(j/k)..
Somewhere in this thread they talked about pocket screws. If you pre-drill for pocket screws you don't need the screw strips. My friend found a kit for $40 at Lowes. The brand is Kreg. Our stands are extremely sturdy without those strips.
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I wanted to say thanks to rocket and all the other posters that have helped inspire me to dive in on my first DIY project. I very happy with the frame so far and can't wait to move onto the next step to skin it and paint it. Dimension's on the stand are 36*18*24. It will be a temporary home for my 20g freshwater until i get $$$$ for my 40g breeder that will be a reef. Thanks again everyone!
Also, do i need a center support that holds the bottom and top frame together? I want to be able to take my sump out anytime for cleaning without removing anything.
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