TheFishMan65
New member
Tanks the same width or length always seem to be a pain to stack.
Here is the best design I have seen (go ahead guess whose design )
Here is the best design I have seen (go ahead guess whose design )
I was wondering if 1x8 equally as strong as 2x6
The stand dimensions will 72lx24wx36h
For a 300 gallon tank on a 72 inch stand the 2x6 is stronger. But it may depend on the setup. If you tell me the tank size I can figure it out.
PS - neither one works in this scenario
I was wondering if 1x8 equally as strong as 2x6
The stand dimensions will 72lx24wx36h
For a 300 gallon tank on a 72 inch stand the 2x6 is stronger. But it may depend on the setup. If you tell me the tank size I can figure it out.
PS - neither one works in this scenario
I was wondering if 1x8 equally as strong as 2x6?
The stand dimensions will 72lx24wx36h, local wood suupliers in the area rarely have good straight 2x anything. However I can find dead straight 1xs with no issues.
Thanks for the help
Ok a 270 gallon tank, with a 62 inch opening and salt water weighing 10lb/gallon (although this does not change it much).
1x8 deflection is .237
2x6 deflection is .200
your equation
2x6 deflection .127
Hmm - something is wacky
how do you do a 1x?
This counts the corners twice you should probably subtract 1.5 inches from each measurement so you are using the center lines of each board. Better still would be the centerline of the tank frame."Total Beam Length" = 72+72+24+24 = 192"
A reasonable assumption, but an FYI this is not always true especially with framed tanks.Since the weight is evenly distributed
If RE makes those assumption, I don't think he does it "for safety", but rather to make the formula a lot easier to use, by avoiding the two issues I described in my last post about calculating values for "L" and "W". Those two assumptions are shortcuts that make the results a lot less accurate, but could be considered acceptable because the error always shows more deflection than would be accurate, never less. The problem is that the inaccuracy is hidden, and the amount of inaccuracy is moderate for some tanks, but large for others. An overt and consistent way to increase the safety margin would be to get accurate deflection values from the formula, and then simply lower the amount of deflection you're willing to accept.While I agree with most of what you said. I don't believe this is the way RocketEnginner calculates the vaules [...] I believe he made the following assumptions for safety:
Rocket are my assumptions correct?
- All of the weight is dsitributed over the 2 longest beams
- He did not subtract the legs from the length
RocketEngineer said:There is definately a safety margin in this design [formula]. Most of that comes from using the values of green wood vs kiln dried which is stronger. The reason for this margin is to account for any defects in the lumber. [...] And for when I run the numbers, anything below .125 [inches of deflection] is my limit so working for .1 is even safer.
good catch!This [C-Rad's example of using the deflection formula] counts the corners twice you should probably subtract 1.5 inches from each measurement so you are using the center lines of each board. Better still would be the centerline of the tank frame.
Stand is really a stand within a stand, outer dimension's are 72.5 x 36.5 x 37.5 which is the dimension's I will upgrade to years down the road but there are also supports within the 72.5 x 36.5 x 37.5 that are 60.5 x 18.5 x 37.5 to hold my current tank. I also will be adding 2- 3/4'' pieces of plywood on top on the stand bringing the total hight to 39''.
And in reality the stand now is only 33'' wide since I still have to build the front wall which will be 3.5'' wide up to what the leveled stand hight turns out... if that makes sense... I am doing this because we had already acored the base plate (2x4) into the cement ( due to frameing happy father in-law while we were framing) and i want the tank to go to the edge of the wall.
What would be the best way to frame this front wall to properly support the 3.5'' hanging over the stand?
I was planning on using double up 2x4's for sure on the ends and then every 12''.
But would it be ok to double the ends and then just go single 2x4's every 12'' to use less wood? ( there will also be a 2x4 on top of the studs laying flat 3.5'' across.)